Broken master link -split/cracked case on my 05 450


13 replies to this topic
  • tnl

Posted November 15, 2007 - 09:10 PM

#1

Dune trip last weekend going up test hill by the vender's in second gear when all of the sudden it pops out of 2nd gear from half throttle :thumbsup: I look down while stopped to find engine oil leaking into the sand from under my shifter/shift shaft http://oem.thumperta...shiftshaft.aspx***! Long story short, chain or master link broke or came off and my chain wrapped around the shift lever and bent it back and down causing the case just behind the shifter to split/crack causing about a 1/4 inch by 1/4 or so inch opening. The chain managed to wedge itself twice over into the chain guide by the swing arm and bent that too including the case saver. It feels like it can be shifted into neutral but it's tough to tell with no chain on. I just washed the bike tonite and plan on removing the skid plate tomorrow to re evaluate the damage. At what point does one determine that a new case (hopefully that's it) is in order? If the crack is weldable should I try it or will it need to be opened to weld it? Hopefully the gearing and gut's are ok but it looks questionable with the shift shaft bent the way it is. I wonder if it's possible to bend the shift shaft and crack the case where it enters the case without damaging the internal parts? What would you guy's do next (other than saving $).

  • grayracer513

Posted November 15, 2007 - 10:01 PM

#2

chain or master link broke or came off and my chain wrapped around the shift lever and bent it back and down causing the case just behind the shifter to split/crack causing about a 1/4 inch by 1/4 or so inch opening.

What kind of chain was it?

It feels like it can be shifted into neutral but it's tough to tell with no chain on.

Try turning the sprocket with a pair of pliers.

At what point does one determine that a new case (hopefully that's it) is in order? If the crack is weldable should I try it or will it need to be opened to weld it?

It can probably be welded, but the case will need to be welded into the shift shaft bore where the crack starts. That means that the case will need to be rebored for the shaft, so it will have to come apart. It is only replaceable as a part of a set of cases, so a repair will likely be much cheaper than new ones.

Hopefully the gearing and gut's are ok but it looks questionable with the shift shaft bent the way it is. I wonder if it's possible to bend the shift shaft and crack the case where it enters the case without damaging the internal parts? What would you guy's do next (other than saving $).

It's very unlikely that any other components were damaged in this failure, actually. You'll need the shaft, of course, but that should be all.

  • tnl

Posted November 15, 2007 - 10:17 PM

#3

What kind of chain was it?


DID 520v 120 o-ring chain $78.95 I remember installing the master link and thinking that it didn't seem to seat as flush as my old Renthal non o-ring one even though it seemed to snap in place but was confident enough to ride with it that way and was sure to check it after every ride (except that weekend):thumbsup: I figured that it seated a little different (more snug ) almost as though it was too thick because of the o-rings?? Chalk that one up as another beginner mistake I guess?

  • almostinvincible119

Posted November 16, 2007 - 07:20 AM

#4

the o-ring chain masterlinks seem to need some presuasion to go on right. you need the right tool....but im too cheap so i use a couple nuts over the pins and 2 small c clamps clamped on the nuts and i just keep working it on there. but if its not on right, it will for sure come off.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 16, 2007 - 07:31 AM

#5

The better sealed chains use a master link with a plate that press fits to the pins. This makes the link stronger. You quite often need to use a master link press tool, or improvise with some other kind of clamp to fit them together. The test is always to insert the edge of the clip in the grooves to see if it slides in freely, which it must be able to do. Then, of course, be sure the clip's pointed the right way, but you knew that.

Also, if you cut the chain yourself, depending on which type of chain breaker you used, there's a possibility that you may have pulled an inner plate part way off of the roller sleeve, so that the width across the inner plates is excessive, and interferes with fitting the master link. Look for that, and if it happens, press the inner plates back down tight on the sleeve before assembling the master link.

  • Ga426owner

Posted November 16, 2007 - 07:37 AM

#6

Clips for masterlinks do wear out overtime. I had one come apart and do the same thing once. You must replace the clip over time....keep an eye on it.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 16, 2007 - 08:02 AM

#7

Clips for masterlinks do wear out overtime. I had one come apart and do the same thing once. You must replace the clip over time....keep an eye on it.

You should be able to see the wear on them, which comes from running through the lower guide.

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  • Ga426owner

Posted November 16, 2007 - 11:11 AM

#8

You should be able to see the wear on them, which comes from running through the lower guide.



they get very sharp on the outside edges.....like a knife...then get very weak.

  • Ronin 26

Posted November 16, 2007 - 11:40 AM

#9

After you "press" the side plate on and install the clip, pull the side plate back against the clip snugly.

I use my chain breaker to pull the slide plate back. I've seen most of these fail due to either incorrect installation direction, or a little space behind the clip. Some clips are bowed, so when you install them they flatten out and act as a locking aid. Again these will do nothing if the side plates not bottomed against the clip.

  • 234gearwheelie

Posted November 16, 2007 - 01:30 PM

#10

Why not get the right tool and fit the soft link that does away with the clip version, you normally get 2 types of link joiner with every chain, in the UK its illegal for a dealer to fit a circlip type link to a road going motorcycle, i had an oring chain once that stated the circlip type link was not designed for motorcycle over 250cc's as well.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 16, 2007 - 02:25 PM

#11

Why not get the right tool and fit the soft link that does away with the clip version, you normally get 2 types of link joiner with every chain, in the UK its illegal for a dealer to fit a circlip type link to a road going motorcycle, i had an oring chain once that stated the circlip type link was not designed for motorcycle over 250cc's as well.

You would think that if there were a problem with a well made clip type link on a high quality chain that sometime in the past 29 months of running the same two on my '03, something bad would have befallen me.

I've been running Regina ORN-6's with the provided clip links exclusively since '02 on bikes ranging from a YZ250F to a CR500. Never had a problem.

Riveted links are fine, as long as the pin ends aren't too soft, and they get installed right.

  • Ronin 26

Posted November 16, 2007 - 02:35 PM

#12

You would think that if there were a problem with a well made clip type link on a high quality chain that sometime in the past 29 months of running the same two on my '03, something bad would have befallen me.

I've been running Regina ORN-6's with the provided clip links exclusively since '02 on bikes ranging from a YZ250F to a CR500. Never had a problem.

Riveted links are fine, as long as the pin ends aren't too soft, and they get installed right.


I agree. If the clip link is installed properly you won't have any issues.

I'm not saying the OP's was installed incorrectly just adding my opinion about clip links.

Rivet links work great, but Grey is 100% correct they have to be installed properly.....as do clip links.

  • todds924

Posted November 16, 2007 - 06:47 PM

#13

Why not get the right tool and fit the soft link that does away with the clip version, you normally get 2 types of link joiner with every chain, in the UK its illegal for a dealer to fit a circlip type link to a road going motorcycle, i had an oring chain once that stated the circlip type link was not designed for motorcycle over 250cc's as well.


I will run nothing but a RIVET link on all my bikes for this exact reason. I have yet to see a rivet link come apart. Rivet the chain on and forget about it. If you ever have to remove it for whatever reason, grind of the pins on the link and pop it off.....replace with another when you put it back on. As far as the bent shift shaft goes, I doubt you hurt anything internally <transmission>. You might have trouble getting that bent shaft back out of the case. You need to pull the right side engine cover and remove the clutch basket, then try and push the shift shaft out. I've seen them so bent that the bent part needed to be cut off before it would slide out of the case.

  • 234gearwheelie

Posted November 17, 2007 - 03:23 PM

#14

i broke 3 clip links in total over 2 high quality o ring chains on a drz400e,it was road legal [here in uk] and did a lot of work inc trail ride every weekend if not i was a member of xmoor enduro club,tarckntrail club,scec club and ride it club, thats 4 clubs plus all my free time in a 2 year period [if i could i would give you hour meter readings and failure times/miles], split links fail when used rivet dont i think i know high usage limits of a split link scenario vs rivet there is NO comparison.





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