Which oil in 07 450?


68 replies to this topic
  • stillsun

Posted November 22, 2007 - 07:02 PM

#61

Mystik 15W40 JT-8 Heavy Duty Semi-Synth

  • bnyfe

Posted November 23, 2007 - 09:46 AM

#62

MXA – October 2007 – Page 96 “Ten Things You Need to Know About 4-Stroke Oil”

Ricky Carmichael, along with the rest of the Makita Suzuki and Pro-Circuit Team members, uses Maxima Maxum 4 Extra 10w40. This is a 100% ester-based synthetic oil. Engine temps have exceeded 300 degrees without a single oil failure. Magnetos have melted down before cylinders have locked up using this oil.

Race Oils can produce horsepower and torque. On a dyno, a typical 450F will produce more than 1 additional hp using high quality race oil vs. generic automotive oil.


See article for more info...

  • grayracer513

Posted November 23, 2007 - 02:38 PM

#63

MXA – October 2007 – Page 96 “Ten Things You Need to Know About 4-Stroke Oil”

Ricky Carmichael, along with the rest of the Makita Suzuki and Pro-Circuit Team members, uses Maxima Maxum 4 Extra 10w40. This is a 100% ester-based synthetic oil. Engine temps have exceeded 300 degrees without a single oil failure. Magnetos have melted down before cylinders have locked up using this oil.

Race Oils can produce horsepower and torque. On a dyno, a typical 450F will produce more than 1 additional hp using high quality race oil vs. generic automotive oil.


See article for more info...

The article, like their earlier one, "The Secret World of 4-Stroke Oil", or something to that effect, is fundamentally accurate at its core, but oversimplified to the point of being subject to being far too easily misinterpreted by jumping to conclusions while trying to fill in the gaps.

There is, for example, no evidence offered to suggest that several other oils available will not also survive a thermal event like that mentioned above, and in fact I can think of at least 4 motorcycle oils and two "generic car oils" that have been proven to be able to do so. Not one of them is ester based, either.

The statement, theirs I assume, that "race oil can produce horsepower and torque", is wrong, technically, and over generalized. No lubricant can produce power. Oils with lower friction coefficients can increase the net output by not using up so much of the power produced by the engine, true. But this is not true of all "race oils" vs. all "generic automotive oils", either, and in fact, there are several oil product lines in which their best ECII automotive oil will out perform their best suited racing product in that regard.

That's all over the top if the oil won't stay in grade, anyway.

  • todds924

Posted November 23, 2007 - 06:12 PM

#64

MXA – October 2007 – Page 96 “Ten Things You Need to Know About 4-Stroke Oil”

Ricky Carmichael, along with the rest of the Makita Suzuki and Pro-Circuit Team members, uses Maxima Maxum 4 Extra 10w40. This is a 100% ester-based synthetic oil. Engine temps have exceeded 300 degrees without a single oil failure. Magnetos have melted down before cylinders have locked up using this oil.

Race Oils can produce horsepower and torque. On a dyno, a typical 450F will produce more than 1 additional hp using high quality race oil vs. generic automotive oil.


See article for more info...

On the Suzukis, the stators melted on those things when run low on oil. Very common problem with the RMZ

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  • BergArabia

Posted November 30, 2007 - 12:36 AM

#65

I read these oil threads because it is so hard to find motorcycle oil here in Doha.
The Honda Dealer sells Mobile 20w 50 car oil ....

Anyways I have found some Maxima 10w 40 and Maxima 10w 30 synthetic motorbike specific oil here. Also maxima 75w gear oil ( motorbike specific) oil for my CRF gear box.

Maxima oils here are 11 USD$ per litre.
The mobile 20w 50 dino car oil is about 3 USD per litre.
I think I can prolly pick up some Delo Deisel engine 20w-50 I saw some rotella deisel engine oil 20w50 in Dubai, I think I can find that here I have seen straight 40w for about 2USD per litre..

So this is what I am thinking.

Will use the Maxima 75weight bike gear oil in the gearbox of my crf.

Will use the dino 20w 50 oil in the crf engine side.

Will use the Maxima 10w 40 in the YZ and perhaps use some deisel straigh 40weight oil from time to time in both YZ and honda..

Any thoughts welcome..

I have read with interest all the stuff about amsoil etc and would use it if they sold it here. I really have to compromise due to shipping costs so this is what I am thinking..

Of course I change out the oil very frequently, every 5 hours approx. I have spare air fliters and they get a change every ride. I use stainless steel oil filters .
YZ runs like new after more than 100 hours. No valve adjustments.. want to keep both thumpers like that..

I

  • grayracer513

Posted November 30, 2007 - 07:42 AM

#66

Overall, it sounds OK. The Honda engine holds so little oil that you should really change it pretty much each ride or 3 hours. You can run a straight 40 in the YZ all the time if you give the bike time to warm up well before riding (something that would be VERY difficult if it were my son riding the bike) Not the ideal, but a good choice. The Mobil dino blend should be OK as long as the clutch likes it, and you change OFTEN.

Consider: Maxima at $11/qt x 1.5 = $17.50 for 3 rides (4 if you stretch things). Mobil at $3/qt x 1.5 x 3 = $13.50 for 3 rides, or $18 for 4.

  • motoag93

Posted November 30, 2007 - 02:57 PM

#67

In that case, you will also want to plan on replacing the poor quality rear chain with something that won't stretch immediately and destroy a pair of sprockets that will otherwise last a year or more, and unless you ride a lot of seriously HARD packed ground, getrid of the front tire as well.


Ditto on the front tire....it is a terd. I waited almost a year because at my riding ability I didn't think I would be able to tell....I was wrong. That tire was horrible in sandy soils.

I spent more time adjusting the chain that I did riding! Definitely change the chain and sprockets. I didn't listen .....and found out the hard way. Enjoy the new bike.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 30, 2007 - 04:02 PM

#68

...GL-1 is not much to use as an indicator of the fluid being robust. Not at all.
Let's see what API says about GL-1 rated fluids:

GL-1

This designation denotes lubricants intended for manual transmissions operating under such mild conditions that straight petroleum or refined petroleum oil may be used satisfactorily. Oxidation and rust inhibitors, defoamers and pour depressants may be added to improve the characteristics of these lubricants. Frictional modifiers and extreme pressure additives shall not be used.

(ATF makes a wonderful fluid in the clutch, yet will do poorly in a flat tappet cam situation due to the lack of EP adds.)

There is very little specific in this information regarding the GL-1 Standard. There are a few things that must be remembered about it, though.
> GL-1 is an automotive designation, and so, when the word "mild" is used here, it means mild automotive use. Consider that the lightest cars currently available weigh well over 1000 pounds.

GL-1 is also intended to be used as a gear lube for periods much longer than those mentioned as oil change intervals for MX bikes as well, which is the point, and speaks to their durability when applied to an MX transmission.

It is interesting to consider the fact that GL-1 lubes are often used in truck and tractor transmissions. ATF, which is GL-1 compliant, is used as a transmission lube (obviously), and is expected to last as long as 100,000 miles in an automatic car and light truck application. Not only that, it is used as a gear lube in GM transfer cases, and several of the company's manual transmissions, including the Camaro and Corvette 6 speeds. "Mild"?

As far as the ability of a GL-1 oil to handle pressure, note that the GL-1 designated Amsoil MCF and MCV products also produdec excellent results in the 4 ball wear test.

  • BergArabia

Posted November 30, 2007 - 08:21 PM

#69

Overall, it sounds OK. The Honda engine holds so little oil that you should really change it pretty much each ride or 3 hours. You can run a straight 40 in the YZ all the time if you give the bike time to warm up well before riding (something that would be VERY difficult if it were my son riding the bike) Not the ideal, but a good choice. The Mobil dino blend should be OK as long as the clutch likes it, and you change OFTEN.

Consider: Maxima at $11/qt x 1.5 = $17.50 for 3 rides (4 if you stretch things). Mobil at $3/qt x 1.5 x 3 = $13.50 for 3 rides, or $18 for 4.

Thanks Gray.. You have been very patient with me on my long slow oil learning curve...:busted: :thumbsup:





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