Winterizing question


16 replies to this topic
  • drtbk4ever

Posted November 06, 2007 - 07:39 AM

#1

Hey gang,

It is time to put the bike away for the winter. I have read many threads on the topic, but the one question I would like input on is:

I always put stabil in the gas to store it over the winter, but should I leave stabililzed fuel in the Carb Bowl, or should I drain the Carb?

  • GCannon

Posted November 06, 2007 - 09:11 AM

#2

Who am I to say sitting here in sunny Southern California. However I am a big fan of draining the carb bowl. They make it so easy with the allen screw on the left side of the carb bowl.

Why not take the tank off and turn it upside down as well. Put that premium fuel in your Sled.:worthy:

  • drtbk4ever

Posted November 06, 2007 - 09:56 AM

#3

Who am I to say sitting here in sunny Southern California. However I am a big fan of draining the carb bowl. They make it so easy with the allen screw on the left side of the carb bowl. Why not take the tank off and turn it upside down as well.


Thanks for the input GCannon

OK, I'll drain the carb and consider taking the gas tank off. Any other opinions on this topic.

Put that premium fuel in your Sled.:worthy:


I wished. I live in a one toy household. Buy a sled, then I must sell the bike. And that's not going to happen.

However, I do use the old premium fuel in my lawnmower.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted November 06, 2007 - 02:58 PM

#4

I'd keep a little gas in it and fire it up twice a month, keep the engine internals lubed. Dump the leftover gas in the lawnmower in the spring...

  • xr250ryder

Posted November 06, 2007 - 03:18 PM

#5

Change the oil, drain the gas out of the fuel tank, run the carb out of gas. Put the bike on a stand.

Winterizing done.

  • 2grimjim

Posted November 06, 2007 - 03:23 PM

#6

Hey gang,

It is time to put the bike away for the winter. I have read many threads on the topic, but the one question I would like input on is:

I always put stabil in the gas to store it over the winter, but should I leave stabililzed fuel in the Carb Bowl, or should I drain the Carb?


Fresh gas w/Stbil in tank, drain carb, run once a month 'till it's hot enough to blister your fingers on the radiators, then drain carb after you shut it off. Change oil before you ride again in spring.

The short runs in the winter will keep everything lubed but oil will eventually be contaminated with water condensate and gasoline condensate come springtime. Making sure the engine gets good and warm when you run it over the winter will help keep oil contamination to a minimum.

  • drtbk4ever

Posted November 07, 2007 - 07:39 AM

#7

Here is what I did.

I changed the oil and filter, put Stabil in the tank, cleaned the air filter, removed the battery and put it in the basement where I will put it on a battery tender once every few weeks.

I ran the bike with the Stabil to burn off as much gas from the carb as possible. Then drained the remainder.

The only thing I didn't do was to put a little oil down the spark plug hole.

When I was running the bike it was popping and didn't want to idle. Either it really didn't like the Stabil, or I already got some crap in the carb from it sitting around for 6 weeks. Spring will tell when I drain out the old gas and put in fresh.

Thanks for all the input guys.

  • clark4131

Posted November 07, 2007 - 09:09 AM

#8

It sounds like you're on the right track. Here's my canned winter storage speech...

Since you have a plastic tank, you can completely drain the fuel system, carb included...not so if you have metal tank due to condensation & rust issues. Pull the spark plug and put a teaspoon of fresh oil in the top of the cylinder, reinstall the plug. Do a complete oil and filter change. Now would also be a good time to think about replacing the coolant. Pull the battery and put it on a Battery Tender. Air up the tires to 15-20 PSI and store the bike on a stand off of the wheels. Once it's off the front suspension, check to make sure the forks are properly bled via the valve on the top. If you've done everything correcty, in a few months you can just reconnect the battery, poor gas in it and fire it up...SC

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • matt4x4

Posted November 07, 2007 - 09:42 AM

#9

Make sure your engine is at TDC if sitting for prolonged periods (all valves closed) - valves left open and the oil draining off them can make them stick in an open position which is not good.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted November 07, 2007 - 11:34 AM

#10

After careful consideration and research this is how I would winterize if I were you -


Posted Image

Check out www.2moto.net

  • GCannon

Posted November 07, 2007 - 11:43 AM

#11

Make sure your engine is at TDC if sitting for prolonged periods (all valves closed) - valves left open and the oil draining off them can make them stick in an open position which is not good.


How does one accomplish this with a Decompression cam?:worthy:

  • matt4x4

Posted November 07, 2007 - 12:50 PM

#12

It's the same way, still store at TDC, the engine just has lower compression below 1300 RPM allowing for easier starting (idle is 1800).

Edit - you may have to remove the 2 small plugs down at the crank to set it to TDC visually using a ratchet and aligning the marks on the crank though because you might not be able to "feel" it hit TDC.

  • GCannon

Posted November 07, 2007 - 01:01 PM

#13

It's the same way, still store at TDC, the engine just has lower compression below 1300 RPM allowing for easier starting (idle is 1800).

Edit - you may have to remove the 2 small plugs down at the crank to set it to TDC visually using a ratchet and aligning the marks on the crank though because you might not be able to "feel" it hit TDC.


You should read your service manual before you post this stuff:crazy:

Why do you think "you can't feel the hit" could that be because the cam is holding the exhaust valve open?

Does Zero compression qualify as "lower Compression"?:worthy:

  • matt4x4

Posted November 08, 2007 - 04:44 AM

#14

I don't know what YOU'RE getting at, zero compression, low compression, close enough to the same thing - it all depends on engine RPM with the auto Decomp., what I was getting at is HOW you set TDC on that particular setup SINCE I thought that's what you asked!

I guess looking at your post again, you were just being an antagonist asking how you would accomplish getting ALL the valves closed with auto decomp. - well, you can't and I think you, me and most here know that - why don't you help the OP instead of picking at people's advice! :worthy:

TDC is about the only way you can get the MAJORITY of your valves closed and seated, there's really nothing you can do about the valve that's being held open by the lobe unless you remove the cam from the bike. Hey, here's an idea, go remove the cam from YOUR bike instead of....

Can't really read the service manual about the auto decomp since mine's an older model with manual decomp, however, I understand how it works and know there's no way around the one valve being kept open.
It might be 0 compression at no rpms (when you kick it) but as soon as it catches, the compression comes up proportionally as the RPM's rise.

  • clark4131

Posted November 08, 2007 - 08:35 AM

#15

C'mon now, do we really need to piss in each other's corn flakes?...SC

  • GCannon

Posted November 08, 2007 - 04:26 PM

#16

I understand how it works and know there's no way around the one valve being kept open.
It might be 0 compression at no rpms (when you kick it) but as soon as it catches, the compression comes up proportionally as the RPM's rise.


This is precisely correct. I just did not understand why you want to go through all the trouble of storing your bike at TDC when it makes no difference because the valve is held open anyway.

Please forgive me for my bad behavior:bonk:

  • matt4x4

Posted November 09, 2007 - 04:03 AM

#17

From what I've read about it, I think the Automatic decompression cam only opens one exhaust valve a fraction of the full travel, the other 4 valves are closed, therefore, one can deduct that it's still your best scenario to reduce the chance of a valve sticking open, if all 3 intake valves are left open, your chance of one sticking just went up from a 20% to a 60% chance.
Since there seems to be an issue with valves sticking open on these engines and the 5 valve head design (aside from the auto decop. cam) hasn't changed much, I feel it's probably for the better if you reduce your chances as much as possible.
We can also look at the other things affected, 3 valve springs stored for a length of time under full spring compression, vs. one spring under partial compression - possible spring fatigue is also reduced by storing @ TDC.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.