WR in YZ Disguise
Posted November 03, 2007 - 01:22 PM
Everything is now "Uncorked". I can't tell you how difficult it is to get to the throttle stop screw, but I finally just took off the complete exhaust and then it was a breeze. Wish someone would have laid that tip out here. The AIS removal is very simple and the kit from TT worked well.
The Jet kit went in easily and the bike now runs very well. Hard to tell if it runs harder than my '01 WR426F, but it sure feels more nimble. I haven't had the chance to go off road yet, but I'm hoping to very soon.
Thanks to everyone here for their help.
Posted November 03, 2007 - 03:19 PM
Posted November 03, 2007 - 05:56 PM
Posted November 04, 2007 - 01:58 AM
Posted November 04, 2007 - 08:10 AM
If you want solid mirrors you can actually see out of, you might want to order mirror posts from Baja Des. Join the threaded mirror post halves to your stock brake/clutch posts. then use one of the back sides the relocate the hot start about an inch to the right.
In a relentless quest for improvement, I think the tail area could be improved upon with creative help from some LED tail light and turn signals and maybe a slimmer licence plate holder. You would probably have to built an extended subframe to keep the thin yz fender from flappin around. How solid is the fender now?
Posted November 04, 2007 - 10:10 AM
To answer a couple of questions. I'm not sure how long the YZ rear fender will last with that weight on the back, but I can also tell you that my '01 WR426 with the Baja Designs kit cam apart with regularity. It was an aluminum piece and I had it welded up a couple of times, but the vibration was too much for it. The whole bracket this time is plastic and not very heavy at all......time will tell.
On the taillight and turn signals. I had an option on the LED's, but got talked out of it by the guy at Dual Sport America. You have to admint that these bulbs are a lot easier to replace in case of damage.
Bought some Acerbis hand guards and will get them on in the next few days. Also ordered some very small Acerbis mirrors and will try to get them mounted.
I also bought a key switch for it and will start studying on how to put it in-line with everything else.
Planning the first outing in the dirt with the bike really soon!!!!
Thanks again for all the tips.
2007 WR450F, 2006 Harley, 2001 Harley, 1988 Honda NSR250R, 1979 Honda CBX, 1976 Honda CB400F, 1974 Honda MR50, 1971 Honda SL350, 1971 Honda SL175, 1971 Honda SL125, 1971 Honda SL100, 1971 Honda SL70, 1969 Honda Z50, 1968 Honda Z50, 1969 Mustang Convertible.
Posted November 04, 2007 - 12:55 PM
the regular bulb filiment would break with the vibrations from riding off road.
i was always changing bulbs.
then i switched to led bulbs.
never had to change again.
they also use way less power so you draw way less from your altinator.
you have made yourself a very nice bike there.
if you are anything like me, i suspect that your project will never be complete....haha
Posted November 04, 2007 - 12:56 PM
John in Vegas
Posted November 04, 2007 - 02:01 PM
Posted November 04, 2007 - 02:10 PM
I went with DSA because they had an all white headlight unit and I was tired of blue.
I will probably reconsider the LED thing as it is apparent that the battery and generator on these bikes are really not made with lights in mind.
Just wondering. I put the BD on mine and just about everything has broken. They gave me this http://i114.photobuc.../60723001-1.jpg to replace the the cheap plate holder (lost the plate 1st ride) the kit came with. Suprisingly, this LED light/plate holder has held up well.
John in Vegas
Posted November 05, 2007 - 10:40 PM
Posted November 06, 2007 - 05:06 AM
Posted November 06, 2007 - 08:38 PM
way too clean....
my thought exactly. Has this bike ever seen dirt??? Nice looking though!
Posted November 07, 2007 - 03:46 AM
Was curious of any others that have put a Dual Sport kit on their bikes and the relative amount of load that the equipment puts on the charging system and the battery.
On mine: With the ignition off and battery fully charged I get 12.78 volts. Starting the bike with the electric starter and having only the taillight burning, the reading goes down into the 12.5 volt range. Turning on either the low or high beam it then dips down into the high 12.3 - low 12.4 volt range.
Question is ...... if you run the bike at night with the lights on, pull over for a bit or stall the engine, is the battery going to have enough pizzaaaaaz to start the engine using the electric starter? I know that batteries will tend to regenerate by themselves..........albeit slowly. And if I read things correctly, anything less than a 12.4 volt reading is considered to need a charge.
Question 2 ...... I've heard of higher output stators and something about soldering an additional wire etc to get more juice.
Anyone out there with this type of experience?
Posted November 07, 2007 - 05:04 AM
so all the power goes to the battery .I have no ac circuit .and a bigger regulator .mine runs 13.7 with the headlight on. I got the stuff to do that from baja designs . it just rewires your stator as a floating ground setup . it was 40 dollars with
the bigger regulator . I did solder all the connections after crimping them ,to make a better job of it
Posted November 07, 2007 - 05:39 AM
My concern is that I'm wondering if the stock stator will keep up the charge on the battery if you run the lights. I'll check out what Baja Designs has.
Thanks for the tip.