Winter "Rebuild" Project...What to Include?


22 replies to this topic
  • jaredc28

Posted October 22, 2007 - 11:20 AM

#1

93' 650 L (big bore, old supertrapp, de-snorkled, de-smogged, dave's mods, oversized headers, clarke 4.7)

Hello again everyone...
Like most of you, I am feeling the chill of winter and will soon be parking the bike for the winter. I need a garage project and I would like to do some maintenace/rebuilding, etc... I have read many threads about what you have done to your bikes, but any advice on my project would be appreciated.

First off, I ride 90% street (commuting) but I do not baby it. It has just over 20,000 miles with no smoke, but it does have some knocking from the top of the motor. It has plenty of power, but I do not think anything has been done to any of the internal engine components, clutch, etc. I am not a mechanic, but am handy and mechanically inclined, and I would like to do most if not all of this project myself (if possible).

TO DO OR NOT TO DO?

1) How do I know if I need to have a valve job or adjustment done (or a cam)? If so are there instructions...?

2) Instructions on cleaning/re-greasing swingarm linkage, head tube bearings, and needle bearings?

3) Instructions on fork seals, fork oil and anything related to this maintenance?

4) Wheel stem bearings?

5) I know I need a new valve cover gasket...anyone done it lately and have some advice?

6) Anything else I haven't thought of that needs general maintenance after 20,000 miles?

Thanks for all the help in advance!:crazy:

  • jaredc28

Posted October 29, 2007 - 07:55 AM

#2

C'mon guys I really need some advice on this!!! Anything...

  • martinfan30

Posted October 29, 2007 - 08:12 AM

#3

93' 650 L (big bore, old supertrapp, de-snorkled, de-smogged, dave's mods, oversized headers, clarke 4.7)

Hello again everyone...
Like most of you, I am feeling the chill of winter and will soon be parking the bike for the winter. I need a garage project and I would like to do some maintenace/rebuilding, etc... I have read many threads about what you have done to your bikes, but any advice on my project would be appreciated.

First off, I ride 90% street (commuting) but I do not baby it. It has just over 20,000 miles with no smoke, but it does have some knocking from the top of the motor. It has plenty of power, but I do not think anything has been done to any of the internal engine components, clutch, etc. I am not a mechanic, but am handy and mechanically inclined, and I would like to do most if not all of this project myself (if possible).

TO DO OR NOT TO DO?

1) How do I know if I need to have a valve job or adjustment done (or a cam)? If so are there instructions...?

2) Instructions on cleaning/re-greasing swingarm linkage, head tube bearings, and needle bearings?

3) Instructions on fork seals, fork oil and anything related to this maintenance?

4) Wheel stem bearings?

5) I know I need a new valve cover gasket...anyone done it lately and have some advice?

6) Anything else I haven't thought of that needs general maintenance after 20,000 miles?

Thanks for all the help in advance!:worthy:


i check my valves every other oil change. you will hear them if loose. if tight you wont know untill they burn. that is when you need a valve job. does it smoke at all? i would recomend a valve job if you pull the head off with that many miles. do a hi comp piston/bore/cam( i am doing a hotcam right know on mine).

check suspension bushings for wear/play and either replace of clean/lube. same with steering head brgs.


when i do my cam i'll let you know about the v/c gasket. doesnt seem difficult.

lightening these bikes is a good thing too. the biiggest weight loss for mine was removing the battery box and relocating the battery/electronics to the airbox. i also put on a fcr 41 pumper with a uni pod filter.

some good looking mods are doing the xr400 front and cr/crf rear fenders. i have pics if you want.

do a cargo rack too. mine is a promotobillet... very nice.

  • motomonte

Posted October 29, 2007 - 08:21 AM

#4

Just don't skip the swingarm/stem bearing cleaning and lubbing...I did and now will have to replace all the parts$$$Make sure you remove all the old grease,don't repack atop the old grease or you'll seal all the dirt/metal particles inside.Also apply some anti-seize on the bolts (the swingarm bolt is prone to seizing and may have to be drilled out once stuck:banghead: )Another good thing to do while you're at it is to check all the electrical connectors.Get a can of contact cleaner and clean every connector then apply some di-electric grease.All of this will take little money,and surely fill all your spare time.As for the instructions since you're mech inclined just get a good manual and you'll do fine.20,000 mi. is a long way for a single cylinder engine tough it's not uncommon for the mighty XR.Uh,almost forgot,it'll be a good idea to change the fork fluids.Again,this may save you a couple $in the long run.:worthy: :worthy: :worthy: now get there and have some fun.

  • jaredc28

Posted October 29, 2007 - 09:46 AM

#5

I think it is the valves that I can hear clattering when I am at lower RPM's. I really don't know anything about how to check them or adjust them...any step by step instructions. I read some in a search I did earlier, but it was very disjointed and unclear.

Tell me more about the Hi comp piston bore cam? Cost? Installation? Benefits?

  • cleonard

Posted October 29, 2007 - 09:49 AM

#6

As far as instructions go get a manual. The Honda one is the best, but the Clymer will work. I have both. You can find them on ebay.

I do disassemble/assembly, but let a shop do the machine work. The best bet for the head is to send it to someone and let them decide what needs to be fixed. New valve seals might be a good idea.

Your rings may need replacing. Check the bore for wear, out of round and taper. Check the piston for wear. This takes some more specialized tools so if you don't have them get a shop to do it. For the rings check the end gap. Carefully take the top one off and put it in the bore. Use the piston to get it nice and square about 3/4 of an inch down from the top. If the gap between the ends is over spec you will need at least hone and install new rings.

  • jaredc28

Posted October 29, 2007 - 09:51 AM

#7

What is the procedure for getting all the old grease and grit out of the swingarm/stem bearings? Do you just push grease through the zerk until it is clean?, and then clean the bushings?

Again, any good instructions out there on fork seal changes, oil, etc...

  • martinfan30

Posted October 29, 2007 - 09:54 AM

#8

I think it is the valves that I can hear clattering when I am at lower RPM's. I really don't know anything about how to check them or adjust them...any step by step instructions. I read some in a search I did earlier, but it was very disjointed and unclear.

Tell me more about the Hi comp piston bore cam? Cost? Installation? Benefits?


the cam and piston require a little mech. skills. not bad though. the stage 1 cam cost 190.00. the piston will be about the same when i get to it. the power increase is very good. IF you already have exh and int mods. like daves mods and a slipon muffler.

  • motomonte

Posted October 29, 2007 - 10:28 AM

#9

It may drive some of the old grease out but to really get them clean I suggest to disassemble the linkage (don't remove the bearings unless you plan on replacing them as the process of driving them out may distort/damage them)and clean them as thoroughly as you can.Maybe some degreaser/contact cleaner/solvent will do it.This way you may have a good look at the components and check for wear.As for the stem bearings it is much easier since they just drop out once you disassemble the setup.Be careful when re-installing them so as not to overtorque them.Good luck,keep on.

  • cleonard

Posted October 29, 2007 - 10:32 AM

#10

What is the procedure for getting all the old grease and grit out of the swingarm/stem bearings? Do you just push grease through the zerk until it is clean?, and then clean the bushings?

Again, any good instructions out there on fork seal changes, oil, etc...


Disassemble, clean out old grease with solvent, examine bearings, replace if worn/pitted, re-grease and reassemble.

Pumping grease in the zerk fittings is a good thing to do. I try and do it every few rides, but it is not a substitute for taking it apart and cleaning the bearings. I do it every two or three years. In my experience the "dogbone" is most likely to have rust in the suspension linkage.

I'm in the if it's not broke don't fix it camp, so I don't replace fork seals unless they are leaking. If I do go in to the forks I usually replace the bushings if it's been a long time. The biggest pain in taking the forks apart is the Allen head bolt in the bottom. It comes out easy with an air impact wrench, but can be very hard to get out with hand tools.

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  • jaredc28

Posted October 29, 2007 - 11:09 AM

#11

My fork seals only leak when I am transporting my bike in the back of the pickup and I have to compress the forks a bit when it is strapped down. I noticed that there was a small amount of oil on the bed when I unstrapped it. Does this sound like a bushing or a seal? I really need a manual...

  • jaredc28

Posted October 31, 2007 - 09:36 AM

#12

Well I am in the early stages of the "tear down". I hope to have some pics posted soon. I found a fair bit of rust on the under side of my frame below the skid plate and under the rear fender, so I have decided to completely take it apart and sandblast/powder coat the frame while I have it apart. I checked the bushings and bearings around the swing arm and everything looks pretty good except for being really dirty and greasy.

I still need some advice on how to polish my cylinder head. It is very oxidized and it needs some help. Is a wire brush on a die grinder a good idea? Then hit it with the polisher?

I will keep you posted as to how it is going...

  • jaredc28

Posted November 01, 2007 - 09:37 AM

#13

I found an interesting thing...in the back of the engine there is a port with a black tube running down below the swing arm. When I took the tube off and took it apart I found that it was completely clogged with dirt/grease, a washer, some more dirt.

Is this something to be concerned about and could it have created problems that I don't know about?

  • martinfan30

Posted November 01, 2007 - 09:38 AM

#14

crankcase ventilation. if thats plugged it could blow out seals/cause leaks.

  • jaredc28

Posted November 05, 2007 - 02:40 PM

#15

Here are some pics of the frame and tear down...can you say UGGGLYYY!:worthy: I had no idea of the amount of rust until i took the skid plate off. The first couple of owners must have not had a plate and bounced every rock in Utah off of it!:worthy:

I stopped by our local powder coat shop today. Wow I had no idea of the color selection:thumbsup:, I could even go with a granny apple green if wanted. I think I may just stick with silver or black. He quoted me $125 for the powder and $50 for sand blasting.

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1305.jpg

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1302.jpg

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1304.jpg

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1301.jpg

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1308.jpg

http://s147.photobuc...nt=100_1307.jpg

  • martinfan30

Posted November 05, 2007 - 02:47 PM

#16

just the frame to be coated?

i'm jealous, winter projects rule!

  • jaredc28

Posted November 05, 2007 - 02:59 PM

#17

just the frame to be coated?

i'm jealous, winter projects rule!


What else should I coat?

  • martinfan30

Posted November 05, 2007 - 09:12 PM

#18

helmet, boots...

no thats just silly!:worthy:

  • jaredc28

Posted November 06, 2007 - 02:22 PM

#19

helmet, boots...

no thats just silly!:worthy:


HAAAAAAA!!!! :worthy: No really, what else would you powder coat if you were going to do it?

  • martinfan30

Posted November 06, 2007 - 02:55 PM

#20

prob. just the frame. hey, what about the wheels? black powder coat would look pretty good!





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