Good lighting w/ stock stator? 650R

[Thumpmeister]

Sounds like I might be going to a 24hr race here in about a week and a half. And since its a 24 hour race, I need good lighting, and I have a feeling that the stocker just will not cut it.

I've never ridden at night, so I'll see how this goes. I know about the DIY stator re-wind, but are there other options out there that won't break the bank when comes to lighting? Are there other set-ups I can add to/replace the stocker with that will give off better lighting? Any luck w/ LED's? Anyone have any luck with different set-ups that aren't HUGE?

Basically, I need a crash course in enduro lighting that will work... Thanks!

[Beyond The Pale]

I think that the stock stator is rated around 70 or 75 watts. This shold run a 55w halogen to full brightness. The stock headlight sucks. You really need something that uses a Halogen bulb. A 55w halogen will give twice the light of the stock setup.

I consider a single 55 watt halogen to be the minimal setup for night riding. Just like there is no replacement for displacement, there is no replacement for watts. I run one of the dual output stators. One runs a Baja Designs DOT headlight with a 90/110 H4 bulb. The other runs the dual sport kit and another 55w halogen tiny fog light for extra lighting.

The kind of lighting really depends on the terrain. Tight trails need a lot of light spread around. That is what my tiny fog light does. It's not focused very well at all. For high speed open riding a focused light is what you need. That's what the Baja Designs headlight does.

As far a cheap upgrades goes here are a few things that you can try. I think that a H3 bulb can be made to fit the stock headlight housing with a little grinding and wiring work. This is the cheapest at only $5. Even though the focusing might not be right it is worth a try. Next up is an automotive fog or driving light. These can be had for $20 or so. They generally use a 55w H3 bulb. Use in place of the stock headlight. You have to figure out how to mount it. The next thing is to replace your headlight assembly. This will be more like $100. If you go this route be sure that the one you get uses halogen bulbs, some are just like your existing headlight.

[absynth01]

If you are riding fast, you need light. I was looking at twin 100w non dot's as backups on my plated 600R. It now has 55w + 2 35w wide beams. This is good for trails, but you will OUTRUN YOUR HEADLIGHTS. Cranking 65-75 on mountain roads twin 100 watts will be a lifesaver. Notice Autozone's ad sundays paper "TWO 100w lights(like piaa or bd) 49.95!!!!!!!Already have Ricky stator 200w kit 159$

[iestrada]

This is the honda PN for the glass lens that fits on th estock number plat, it is for H3 bulb, but you'll need to change the connectors

33123-MK2-671

[Thumpmeister]

So, your thinking that just one of the 55w Halogens will be okay?

You were saying that the stock set-up will be around 70-77 watts. So, would I be able to run dual 35w lamps? I was looking at something like this: http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP19008/store,3728/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm

And make my own bracket like you said to mount them with. I think most of the riding will be a little slower, like maybe fast trails, with a little open country. I don't plan on runnin at 80mph through baja here...

So, what if I could get a set of dual lamps with a relay to get some more voltage out of it?

[Beyond The Pale]

You may not have enough extra watts for the double 35's. Remember that the efficiency of halogen bulbs increases with wattage. Two 35's will only be slightly brighter than a single 55. A 65 watt would be 10% or more brighter than two 35's. If you run a relay it will suck a couple of watts too when it's on.

If you go with a H4 headlight there are tons of bulbs in all wattages. I only know of 35,55,and 100 for H3. For H4 I know of 35/35, 45/45. 55/65, 65/70, 70/80, 90/100 and I'm sure that there are even more. H3's have less selection available. That way you can tune your bulb to your available watts. www.rallylights.com is a good no BS source for bulbs. Most sites have tons of BS about the bulb ratings.

You also don't want to run right at the limit without some time to test. Don't forget that the tail light needs a few watts as well depending on the bulb.

If you want to save some $$$ check out the fog/driving/aux lights at Wal Mart. The one that I used was only $16 for two.

[Thumpmeister]

Yeah, I was thinking of checking out the wal-mart ones, as well as go to autozone here in town to see what they have. So, I should plan on running at 65w max for my front lights then? Have you had more luck with running the one larger light, or the two smaller ones?

[JJStunts816]

Yeah, I was thinking of checking out the wal-mart ones, as well as go to autozone here in town to see what they have. So, I should plan on running at 65w max for my front lights then? Have you had more luck with running the one larger light, or the two smaller ones?

Me personally, I think my setup is brighter with 1 55w bulb, instead of 2 35w bulbs..

At first I was running dual 35w, and then I switched to dual 55w bulbs with 1 bulb on a switch so when im at low rpm I can run just a single bulb

[loufish]

If you have to run the stock stator(no funds to replace it) then I'd get something like the Baja Designs single 8" La Paz set-up. Run a 55 watt H1 bulb until you re-do your stator, then you can step up to a 100 watt bulb.

The La Paz is a big light, and will put more light to the ground then a smaller housing with the same bulb.

If you can't afford this set-up ($225) then maybe you should stay home... You asked for a crash course in enduro lighting, well this is it...

[absynth01]

My twin 35w wide beams help, but are not MY answer. The single 55w does more except for the width of my beam. The 35's are nice if they are pointed low and wide for trails(deer), but don't do much more on the road. Custom brackets for small lights can be bolted to the bottom triple clamp. I haven't hooked the twin 100w's yet, but have seen these hooked up--no comparison, save and get a stator if you night ride!!!!

[BajaBoundMoto]

Whoa, you guys are way over thinking this.

Iestrada is correct.

This is the honda PN for the glass lens that fits on th estock number plate, it is for H3 bulb, but you'll need to change the connectors 33123-MK2-671

Or you can cal Baja Dedsigns and they will sell you the OEM glass lens with a 55w with the proper connectors on it so it's a plug and go deal. Very simple and cost effective for use with the OEM stator.

Take it a step further and get your stator rewound and then throw a 100w bulb in that glass light and it's really good.

That glass lens throws a really good pattern.

Don't waste your time and money on a homemade deal from PepBoys, especially this close to the 24HR. Your team mates on your 24HR team might not be too happy if you show up with an untested and/or poor performing light, they're counting on you to help the team (aren't they?).

[loufish]

Or you can cal Baja Dedsigns and they will sell you the OEM glass lens with a 55w with the proper connectors on it so it's a plug and go deal. Very simple and cost effective for use with the OEM stator.

Take it a step further and get your stator rewound and then throw a 100w bulb in that glass light and it's really good.

That glass lens throws a really good pattern.

Don't waste your time and money on a homemade deal from PepBoys, especially this close to the 24HR. Your team mates on your 24HR team might not be too happy if you show up with an untested and/or poor performing light, they're counting on you to help the team (aren't they?).

I've got the glass lens, and switched to a 55 watt bulb, much better then stock, but I wouldn't even think of racing like that!

My original post about a Baja Designs 55 watt La Paz still holds. If I only had enough money for a new stator, or a hi-grade lighting system, I'd run the hi-grade system with only a 55 watt bulb. I also agree with above, you don't mount some cobbled up Pep Boys light on a race bike...

[Thumpmeister]

I kind of doubt I would be able to get the glass lens prior to the race, which is next saturday. I've ordered from honda parts direct, and it usually takes a little more than a week to get the parts out here. So far, I've never needed lighting, its just my buddy asked me to fill in for one of his partners, and its kind of on short notice, hence the needing something that will be decent, w/o spending tons of money... I guess all the factors I'm trying to go for don't really go together, but I was just putting it out there...

[Beyond The Pale]

Wow, I'd consider a race a benign environment. In a race there are people to save your skin. I've been known to ride at night solo in areas where I have never been before. Oh yea I use a "cobbled together system." I even wound my own stator. However, my system is hardly untested. I do agree with not using something untested. That is why I suggested a simple bulb upgrade to your existing system. I have a multilayered lighting setup. I have backups for my backups.

There is also an important point that several have not fully appreciated. Some have suggested a desert type light setup. However the stated use is more of a trail course. A tightly focused light that works great in high speed desert riding does not do so well on single track.

I would imagine that the stock headlight would take a 55 watt H3 bulb without melting. Like I said before your next best bet would be a fog light.

[absynth01]

A "cobbled up" setup is not what I was refering to. If you don't have brains or know how or connections to get a well together custom system(I like to be different), then spend your money on a ricky stator and piaa setup. Look to spend 500-600 for the dual 100w and mount. I to run a custom setup. It is true and tested. All stainless mounts machined and laser cut, with pep boys low profile 35w wide beams. Got about 800mi of fast stone flying mountain roads, tight woods, and nasty boulder covered tramways. Not a problem yet.

My other bike I bought twin 100w truck (tougher)larger lights that are higher profile. This is not a replacement, but an option as they are wired seperate from my stock lighting. Running 200w + my 55w headlight would not work well and probably fail. The only problem with running big lights is their large profile and subject to breakage(i'm working on stainless guards), Usually not DOT, and usually are concentrated beams as said. This makes them not good for REPLACEMENT of your dot lights. But as an add on they are the best for fast roads and open desert type riding.

Similar lights like PIAA cost abut 250 for the lights, about 100 for the mount, and 150 for a stator. 500$ this replaces your dot setup and not streetable

I used pep boys twin 100w truck lights 49.99. custom brackets 10.00 materials, and a K+S universal switch 24.95, as well as a ricky 200w 139.95. 225$. Half the price and they are in addition to my DOT setup. Still street legal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[absynth01]

Anyone know how hot a bulb(h3) you can go with a glass lens?? I was just looking at a 130w,100w,85w,55w,35w for under 20$

Two weeks ago in a jam, I used an 1157 bulb from my truck, for my tail/brake light. It did melt my lens cover a little being a longer/larger bulb, but not really noticeable from the outside.

[Beyond The Pale]

Anyone know how hot a bulb(h3) you can go with a glass lens?? I was just looking at a 130w,100w,85w,55w,35w for under 20$

Two weeks ago in a jam, I used an 1157 bulb from my truck, for my tail/brake light. It did melt my lens cover a little being a longer/larger bulb, but not really noticeable from the outside.

Glass can usually take a lot of heat. However, at some point the heat resistance of the entire headlight and mounting system can become an issue. I run a 90/110 watt H4 in my Baja Designs headlight with no issues at all. There is a 100/130 bulb available that I'm sure would not cause a problem from heat. I don't really have the watts for it though.

I also run a H3 lamps as well. It get way hot with a 55W H3. I wouldn't try a higher wattage bulb in that light. It would just get too hot.

[XR250rdr]

Anyone know how hot a bulb(h3) you can go with a glass lens?? I was just looking at a 130w,100w,85w,55w,35w for under 20$

Two weeks ago in a jam, I used an 1157 bulb from my truck, for my tail/brake light. It did melt my lens cover a little being a longer/larger bulb, but not really noticeable from the outside.

I've ran a 100W H3 in the Honda lens for years and it doesnt get anywhere near hot enough to be a concern. If I had the capability of pushing a 130W bulb I'd be running that instead.

[absynth01]

thanks boys i'll try it!!!! It'll be in addition to my unstock lights

[twosixtwo]

Sounds like I might be going to a 24hr race here in about a week and a half. And since its a 24 hour race, I need good lighting, and I have a feeling that the stocker just will not cut it.

I've never ridden at night, so I'll see how this goes. I know about the DIY stator re-wind, but are there other options out there that won't break the bank when comes to lighting? Are there other set-ups I can add to/replace the stocker with that will give off better lighting? Any luck w/ LED's? Anyone have any luck with different set-ups that aren't HUGE?

Basically, I need a crash course in enduro lighting that will work... Thanks!

I tried pre-running with a stock stator and 8" 55 watt light and the guy that was behind me was lighting my way. I contacted Ricky Stator and hooked up with I think it's a 250 watt stator for about 150, now I run two 6" 100 watt each Hellas and it makes a world of difference. I race desert and some guys were running a white light and an amber light. Good luck

www.dirtsquadmotorsports.com