Trailtech Vapor Tach issues


32 replies to this topic
  • SXP

Posted 08 May 2008 - 05:49 AM

#21

:eek: :p I have also problems with the tacho.I installed it like in the instructions i tried al the install options.tacho is going grazy jums around not stable at all.my bike is a ducati m900 .i wired the black en red wire directly to the battery.the tacho red to the spade of the coil and the black to the frame.the grazy thing is if i disconnect the black from the frame the tacho is still working.if i disconnect the red and connect the black it is still working .the tacho works with only one wire(red ore black it dossent mather) .is it not possible i have to swith pollarety of the main connection of the Vapor.maybe their is a wizkid outthere ho knows how to fix this problem.



Instead of connecting the wires to any terminal, try wrapping the tach wires a couple of times (keep the red and black together) around the high voltage wire going from the coil to the plug (I'm assuming yours is not an integrated coil-over plug setup).

  • maxtherat

Posted 08 May 2008 - 10:24 PM

#22

I'll be setting up my vapor tomorrow. Do any of you have any tips that you have learned since this thread was started? It's going on a 01 wr426 w/ a baja designs dual sport kit. I planned on running the power off the part of the harness that already had a connector on it for a daytime head light bulb.I'm running the stock light. I also was going to connect the tach signal wire to the connector that supplys power to the coil. Is the power wire long enough to run to the air box if I need toi connect to the battery or should it get intercepted as it goes to the switch? Thanks in advance.

  • fox the Duc

Posted 08 May 2008 - 10:38 PM

#23

I think i found the sollution.I connected the black wire from the Tacho to the grey wire of the ignition box of the first cylinder. This is the negative how is going to the HT coil.do not connect the red from the Tacho.It is working stable as a rock now. the ducati has no CDI ignition i think that was the problem.(I found the sollution on the site of motogadget.de this is a high tech firm ho makes motorcycle instruments with a golden pricetag.thy say that most of the streetbikes have a transistor ignition instead of GDI):p :applause: :eek:

  • fox the Duc

Posted 09 May 2008 - 05:00 AM

#24

If you have a CDI ignition connect like in the instructions.If you have a transistorized ignition connect to the negative of the coil or ignitionbox.Most street bikes have a transistorized ignition recognizable by a negative and a possitive on the HT coil.CDI ignitions have only a positive on the HT coil(like most atv off road bikes and two strokes).Transistorized have a positive and a negative on the HT coil.On my ducati i only connected the black wire to the negative of the ignitionbox (grey wire)of the first cylinder and did not connect the red wire from the revcounter.It works stady as a rock super stable.Its a schame that a company like trailtech(with sutch a wonderful product) dont mention it in its instructions:applause: :eek: :p :applause: .sorry for my bad englich i am from belgium

  • RJB

Posted 09 May 2008 - 05:30 AM

#25

Check this thread out from the YZ forum - my YZ is connected this way and works like a treat

  • maxtherat

Posted 10 May 2008 - 11:10 AM

#26

So here's what I ended up doing. Tach signal grounded to bolt holding coil to frame and pos. attached to the terminal suppling power to coil. Worked great at that point. Power was pulled off the pre exist. connector in the harness(baja designs non-DOT kit) for a daytime running light and it was grounded to the ground lead that's in the harness. With switch on lighting worked great but, with the bike running the tach went crazy. I then moved the power supply ground wire to the chassis and then the lighting would only come on with the bike actually running . The switch alone would not turn it on but, this way the tach is not getting any interference while running. Also, I was concerned about the size of the wires so I first slipped them through some drip irrigation "spaghetti" tubing to protect them. I'm not to concerned about not being able to activate the back light w/o the engine running since I can still hit the button for the temporary lighting.

  • SXP

Posted 10 May 2008 - 12:08 PM

#27

So here's what I ended up doing. Tach signal grounded to bolt holding coil to frame and pos. attached to the terminal suppling power to coil. Worked great at that point. Power was pulled off the pre exist. connector in the harness(baja designs non-DOT kit) for a daytime running light and it was grounded to the ground lead that's in the harness. With switch on lighting worked great but, with the bike running the tach went crazy. I then moved the power supply ground wire to the chassis and then the lighting would only come on with the bike actually running . The switch alone would not turn it on but, this way the tach is not getting any interference while running. Also, I was concerned about the size of the wires so I first slipped them through some drip irrigation "spaghetti" tubing to protect them. I'm not to concerned about not being able to activate the back light w/o the engine running since I can still hit the button for the temporary lighting.


max - wrap both wires multiple times around the high voltage wire going from the coil to the plug cap. You are describing what I went through with my 400 which has the same coil on frame set up. The only thing that fixed the wacky tach readings was the above procedure.

  • maxtherat

Posted 10 May 2008 - 01:12 PM

#28

max - wrap both wires multiple times around the high voltage wire going from the coil to the plug cap. You are describing what I went through with my 400 which has the same coil on frame set up. The only thing that fixed the wacky tach readings was the above procedure.


SXP,
Since I regrounded the power supply ground to the chassis instead of the ground supplied in the harness the tach issue went away. I works perfectly now exept that the back lighting does not turn on unless the engine is actually running. With the wire hooked to the ground in the harness, the back light would turn on with just the switch being on. I can live with it this way since the tach works fine and there is temp back lighting off the internal battery. It's just weird how moving a ground wire from one point ot another will change things. Thanks, MTR

  • jbrooks26

Posted 12 May 2008 - 03:34 PM

#29

That would tell me that your ground for the Baja Designs kit is not making good connection. Ground should be ground no matter where you connect it. If you are grounding through another piece of equipment however, then your ground could become unstable due to that equipment having some sort of ground fault. Hope this helps,

Josh

  • byggd

Posted 12 May 2008 - 04:02 PM

#30

max - wrap both wires multiple times around the high voltage wire going from the coil to the plug cap. You are describing what I went through with my 400 which has the same coil on frame set up. The only thing that fixed the wacky tach readings was the above procedure.

SXP
So you are saying to wrap both red and black around the plug wire, terminate the red there and run the black to the ground wire on the coil mount? :thumbsup: I set mine up per the instructions, got a wacked reading so went to 5 times (per the FAQ on their site) and it's better but still not stable. I'm getting power directly from the BD DS kits battery.

  • maxtherat

Posted 12 May 2008 - 04:29 PM

#31

Where are you grounding your power supply lead at? When I did a test run getting power off the battery and grounding it to the battery as well I got crazy tach readings. The way I hooked it up, as previously described, the tach is nice and stable at idle and it responds well to increased RPM's. The back lighting thing is what's throwing me for a loop even though it is just fine the way it is.

  • SXP

Posted 12 May 2008 - 06:02 PM

#32

SXP
So you are saying to wrap both red and black around the plug wire, terminate the red there and run the black to the ground wire on the coil mount? :thumbsup: I set mine up per the instructions, got a wacked reading so went to 5 times (per the FAQ on their site) and it's better but still not stable. I'm getting power directly from the BD DS kits battery.


Neither the black nor the red tach wire needs to be connected to any power source - they both terminate (open) on the plug wire. Just wrap both wires around the plug wire (the single, thick, round wire going from the coil to the plug cap) multiple times . One (or both) wires act as an inductive pick up to send a signal to the head unit. Just try it - it works, and you will get a stable and accurate rpm reading. I can't remember how/where I tapped in for power - I'll have to check when I get back home at the end of the week.

  • fox the Duc

Posted 12 May 2008 - 09:02 PM

#33

First off all you have to know witch ignition your bike have.Then you know how to connect your vapor.If your revcounter is still jumpy after correct instal.Trailtech has a revcounter lead with a resistor build in.maybe this will help.




 
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