Shell Rotella Oil 5W40 synthetic

[Huffa 2]

I use the 15W40 none synthetic but for the cooler months and maybe forever if I do switch, I want to use the synthetic 5W40.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynth.html

What I want to know is, is anyone using this and have no problems with clutch slipping, since that is what could happen with some synthetics.

Motorcycle oil synthetics = different story, as they are formulated of course with a wet clutch in mind and don't have the slippery agents in them that can possibly make a clutch slip.

[Beyond The Pale]

Many if not most so called synthetic oils are just more highly refined dino oil. this is what the Rotella is. Most true synthetics proclaim PAO or ester on the label.

I have used the synthetic Rotella with no issues. There are plenty of others that use it with no reported problems. The main reason that I tried it was to see if it would help with transmission action. It didn't for me so I went back to the 15W-40 stuff.

The main benefit of the 5W-40 is that it is thinner at low temps. It should pump up slightly faster. I don't really plan on starting my bike in a condition where 15W would be too thick (below 15F or so) so I keep using the less expensive 15W-40.

Form reading Shell's site they only recommend the 5W-40 for cold temps. The 15W-40 was reformulated last year with less zinc and phosphorus. I bought a bunch of the old stuff and I still using that. The 5W-40 was scheduled for reformulation this summer. I don't know if that has happened yet.

[heavyhitter]

Rotella syn is a great oil, good stuff.

It is a group III oil not a a REAL synthetic. I have seen UOA's of group III's out performing PAO's in the wear category.

By the way more oils called "synthetic are not really synthetic at all anymore" just highly refined dino oil. Even Mobil1 changed from a pure synthtic base stock.

Either Rotella you use you will be happy with.

Oh yea...no clutch issues. ?

[heavyhitter]

The 15W-40 was reformulated last year with less zinc and phosphorus. I bought a bunch of the old stuff and I still using that. The 5W-40 was scheduled for reformulation this summer. I don't know if that has happened yet.

Yes, but it still has more of each than most motorcycle specific oils and much much more than car oils.

[Denn10]

What I want to know is, is anyone using this and have no problems with clutch slipping, since that is what could happen with some synthetics.

CMON dont start debating on oil properties just answer HUFF's ? if you use this.

[axarob44]

What is it about oil threads?

[Huffa 2]

What is it about oil threads?

There's so so many oils that there is always bound to be debate, I don't mind any extra info on it though, really.

So the 15W40, which I am using now, is OK up to 30 degrees or so ? I thought 40 degrees would be about the limit for the 15 part of it ?

[heavyhitter]

Either will work just fine for you. Usually off road bikes get thier oil changed so much there is no need for the extra $$ spend on synthetic. Either way you would be wise to use to use the Rotella than spending $$ on motorcycle specific oils.

[Beyond The Pale]

There's so so many oils that there is always bound to be debate, I don't mind any extra info on it though, really.

So the 15W40, which I am using now, is OK up to 30 degrees or so ? I thought 40 degrees would be about the limit for the 15 part of it ?

One thing. At startup the thinner the better no matter the temp. It will get pumped up to running pressure and distributed through out the oil system sooner. Both Rotella oils are 40 weight at high temp so there they protect more or less the same. In my car/truck/bike I would only run 20W-50 down to a little below freezing. Say 25 or 30F. I think that the 15W is good down to at least 20F. I don't do a whole lot of riding when it's that cold, so I don't see much reason to pay extra for the 5W-40 Rotella.

If you look around you will see a bunch of different recommendations for temp vs. viscosity. One at this page http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm says 0F with 20W-50 and -10F with 15W-40. I would not go that cold with either.

How much engine starting do you actually do in really cold temps? While I might ride somewhere where it is 20F, it is usually over 35F when I'm starting a cold engine.

[Huffa 2]

How much engine starting do you actually do in really cold temps? While I might ride somewhere where it is 20F, it is usually over 35F when I'm starting a cold engine.

Well actually even in the winter my bike sits in a toasty 65 degree garage at all times and if I ride it at all I'm sure it will be for some short jaunts, so the 15W40 should do just fine.

I didn't think of that before.

[RdrMtn]

To answer your question, Huffa:

I have used 5w40 Rotella synthetic in my XR650R for the past 3 years and have never had any signs of clutch slippage or any other problems. An added benefit I have found is that the big girl starts easier because of the thinner properties at low temps. ?

[Huffa 2]

To answer your question, Huffa:

I have used 5w40 Rotella synthetic in my XR650R for the past 3 years and have never had any signs of clutch slippage or any other problems. An added benefit I have found is that the big girl starts easier because of the thinner properties at low temps. ?

So all year around you use it ?

[porterdog]

I use Rotella Syn in both my XR4 and 650R during the cooler months; no issues.

I like Delvac 1300S better in the summer though; cheaper, and thicker.

[RdrMtn]

So all year around you use it ?

Yes, I use it year round in Colorado. 100deg F to as cold as you can stand to ride. I don't know why it would be a problem in hot weather. It is my understanding from reading a multitude of oil posts on TT that oil with the same last number is the same thickness once it is warmed up, regardless of the first number; meaning 15w40 is the same thickness as 5w40at normal operating temperature. If that is really true, then 5w40 should be the ultimate number, giving you easy-flowing oil at startup (whether it's 20 degress outside or 100) and good protection at high temps. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Beyond The Pale]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You are 100% correct.

I just don't do a lot of really cold weather starts so I use the cheaper 15W-40 stuff. My trans seems to work a little better with the 15W-40 stuff as well, and that is the main reason that I use it.

[-=Jughead=-]

Yes, I use it year round in Colorado. 100deg F to as cold as you can stand to ride. I don't know why it would be a problem in hot weather. It is my understanding from reading a multitude of oil posts on TT that oil with the same last number is the same thickness once it is warmed up, regardless of the first number; meaning 15w40 is the same thickness as 5w40at normal operating temperature. If that is really true, then 5w40 should be the ultimate number, giving you easy-flowing oil at startup (whether it's 20 degress outside or 100) and good protection at high temps. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I'll argue the 100% correct as far as some real-world concepts to consider.

Technically, and theoretically, you are correct in making that statement.

But....the wider the viscosity range, the more the oil is relying on added polymers for this multi-viscosity range (multi-vis). When cold, a 5w-40 is a 5w oil. The polymers are tightly coiled at this temp. As the oil gets heated, the polymers uncoil/expand to make it "thicker" (resistance to flow) at the higher temps. Some consider the shear potential in a motorcycle (tranny gears, etc.) to essentially eat polymers for lunch. Allegedly, the shearing that occurs will mince the polymers into shorter ones, thereby reducing their ability to uncoil/expand into the length required for resisting flow at the higher temps.

So, "meaning 15w40 is the same thickness as 5w40at normal operating temperature" might be true, provided that the polymers remain intact. I think you'd be safe with either weight, so long as your change interval was early enough.

Keypoint: The wider the multi-vis range, the more polymers in the stock.

Keypoint #2: Polymer destruction can reduce a 5w-40 (or whatever the multi-vis rating is) to a 5w-20 oil, and do it in short order.

Not trying to say "you're wrong"; rather, throwing some things into the mix to consider for your choice.

[Hoverboy]

I use the 5W40 in both my XR650R anf my Honda Magna 750. Never any problems here in AZ.