Clutch


17 replies to this topic
  • Solo

Posted September 24, 2007 - 05:57 PM

#1

I'm concidering replacing the clutch on the WR. My question is about what clutch to use? There are several after market clutches available and the stocker. My experience with motorcycle clutches is that often times, regardless of the material used, the stock clutch is best.

I ride trails, and single track. Some of my sessions include a LOT of clutch work in nasty slow climbs.

Let's hear your recomendations.

  • clark4131

Posted September 24, 2007 - 07:48 PM

#2

If you're not going with a Rekluse, then stay with the OEM stuff. Nothing has proven to be better, but I LOVE my Rekluse...SC

  • kevin1209

Posted September 25, 2007 - 06:04 AM

#3

I have a Magura clutch. Much easier to pull. After a long day of technical riding, I don't have "blood pump" in my left forearm. Or you could just quick shift without the clutch and replace the tranny every year.

  • Mutu

Posted September 25, 2007 - 06:34 AM

#4

OEM clutch is fine, if not the best.

  • clark4131

Posted September 25, 2007 - 07:14 AM

#5

I have a Magura clutch. Much easier to pull. After a long day of technical riding, I don't have "blood pump" in my left forearm. Or you could just quick shift without the clutch and replace the tranny every year.


He's talking about the plates, not the lever...SC

  • SJMC_DON

Posted September 25, 2007 - 07:37 AM

#6

OEM Fibers :thumbsup: I go thru atleast one clutch each season and I have used all mfgs. and for the price the OEM fibers hold up as well, if not better than any others:prof:

  • face_plant

Posted September 25, 2007 - 11:20 AM

#7

yamaha pn #gyt5ta5630 GYTR 155.00 all u need is gasket and springs

  • SJMC_DON

Posted September 25, 2007 - 11:25 AM

#8

yamaha pn #gyt5ta5630 GYTR 155.00 all u need is gasket and springs


That sounds expensive... does that include plates and fibers? I think I only paid $75 for my last set of fibers but maybe there is a distinction between GYTR and OEM:excuseme: I am also sponsored by a Yamaha shop but my discount is not that deep.... Either way, thats less than a DP set and if they are OEM your good.....

  • Solo

Posted September 25, 2007 - 09:33 PM

#9

What are the odds that I just need the fibers and no steels? It's not slipping but I know it's got many miles on it. I'm looking to drop a new one in there before it goes out.

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  • SJMC_DON

Posted September 26, 2007 - 07:26 AM

#10

What are the odds that I just need the fibers and no steels? It's not slipping but I know it's got many miles on it. I'm looking to drop a new one in there before it goes out.


I think you need to make sure your plates are true... lay them on a flat surface, if they are flat, not discolored or scored, you are probably fine:excuseme:

  • Solo

Posted September 26, 2007 - 08:34 AM

#11

I think you need to make sure your plates are true... lay them on a flat surface, if they are flat, not discolored or scored, you are probably fine:excuseme:


You're absolutely right. And that's the part where I say :thumbsup: it and just order the whole set. I hate getting the bike appart only to wait for more parts.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted September 26, 2007 - 10:56 AM

#12

You're absolutely right. And that's the part where I say :thumbsup: it and just order the whole set. I hate getting the bike appart only to wait for more parts.


OEM parts are not sold as a kit... you pay per fiber disc and per plate. Your local shop should have them on the shelf, if they don't explain to them thats why people use the internet:rant:

  • SXP

Posted September 26, 2007 - 11:51 AM

#13

The manual also calls for a minimum thickness after which you discard the plates. So, in addition to warpage and discoloration, break out your trusty caliper and measure away.

Anyone have any experience with the Rocky Mountain Tusk brand clutch kits? I think the entire kit (fibers and steel) is about $45. I wonder if you get what you pay for!

  • Solo

Posted September 26, 2007 - 12:43 PM

#14

OEM parts are not sold as a kit... you pay per fiber disc and per plate. Your local shop should have them on the shelf, if they don't explain to them thats why people use the internet:rant:


This I know. They wont have them in stock. My experience with the Dealer was "if we don't sell 3 of them a month, we don't stock it". Bunch of bone heads. :thumbsup:

  • Thumper_Bloke

Posted September 26, 2007 - 03:33 PM

#15

IMO, if its not slipping and if its not dragging when you put it in gear, i wouldn't touch it. If its not broken, don't fix it. My2C.

  • WGP

Posted September 26, 2007 - 03:40 PM

#16

In the past I have thought I needed a whole new clutch but everything looked good except the springs (they were a little short) so I replaced just the springs and got another 6 months on the same plates.:thumbsup:

  • Scottjay69

Posted September 27, 2007 - 09:39 AM

#17

When you replace your clutch can you please see if your 2000 WR400 has a ball bearing at the end of the clutch push rod? I'm trying to determine if I'm missing one or perhaps there's no ball bearing in our 2000 WR400F. thanks..

  • Solo

Posted September 27, 2007 - 09:03 PM

#18

When you replace your clutch can you please see if your 2000 WR400 has a ball bearing at the end of the clutch push rod? I'm trying to determine if I'm missing one or perhaps there's no ball bearing in our 2000 WR400F. thanks..


I saw your post in another thread. I've never had mine appart so I couldn't comment. I probably wont be taking mine appart to inspect/replace for a few weeks so if you need an answer before that I'm sorry.

You could always try to befriend a guy at the dealer and have them order a push rod and see what it looks like when it comes in.




 
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