I absolutely love my Husqvarna Smr 510....that being said. If I ever meet the man responsible for allowing such shitty fastener bolts to pollute such a beautiful
bike I will throttle his face with a tire iron. Never have I worked with such flimsy bolts. The frame threads are great... but the bolts strip like they were made of brass. I have never had this problem with any of my jap bikes. I am trying to find a kit that will allow me to completely exchange all of the bolts one for one with titanium. Thats my rant.

You have to take your time with the bolts. I snapped the one on the left side oil filter cover the first week. (TE450) I was very frustrated, but now I just take my time to make sure I hand screw to start and use a torch wrench.

I do feel your pain brother.

I hear ya, went to torque my motor mounts using a brand new torque wrench & the nut stripped wayyy before I came any where near the torque setting, luckily I had a handful of the proper nuts courtesy of Generous motors, they're even galvanised:thumbsup:

see...there it is with the torque wrench again. I cringe every time I talk myself into using one...FWIW I"ve broken Honda bolts this way too

Can't say I have had any problem with any of my Husky bolts except from the used TE450 I just bought and 2 of the top tank /shroud screws were stripped out...should've known though 'cause the previous owner had been using "Purple Power "and that stuff is acidic!!!! I got a bunch of Ti screws and bolts from MetTec ...ain't cheap but cool. Also found K&L Supply had some fairing button head fastners that I used to replace all the plastic securing fastners. I don't know if there are any package deals for the Husky though:excuseme:
Oh by the way , was helping neighbor change out cam and new head on his Honda CRF 450 and we came across the same problem with his plastic shroud fastners and during reassembly of head ,"pulled out" 2 head bolts " before" we reached full torque specs!!!! YIKES !!!!
Guscycle

I haven't had a problem with the bolts as much as what they thread into. I've stripped out several spots on my Husky, all before I hit torque with my calibrated wrench. It is frustrating.

I was able to solve one with a nut on the backside. Another I was able to get by with a 5mm longer bolt, but I'm cautious with it. Luckily it's a low torque use , but I'm keeping an eye on it. I also have a M6 set of steel thread repair inserts waiting to go in if it becomes an issue.

I may end up just drilling and putting in some inserts in places like the clutch cover, where I know I'll be in there from time to time playing with the Rekluse. I hate sitting there, slowly turning the torque wrench with gritted teeth, and being thankful when it works. I shouldn't have to do this on a $7K bike. It is BS.

I can't believe a bike this good left the factory with junk hardware like that. Someone does need a tune-up!

I have had it happen 3 times using my torq wrench. I was told it was because the bolts had lube on them and it was allowing me to over tighten. The 3rd one it happened to was dry!..I no longer use the torq wrench and just go by feel. I figure I mess with the bike so much anyway that I'm always checking the bolts.

I have wrenched on high dollar bicycles for years with every type of bolt(ti,alu.) and don't ever remember having this many issues.

I have replaced as many of the bolts as possible with better stuff and it has worked out so far..

Ruffus said:

I hear ya. I torqued the motor mount bolts on my brand new SMR510 and the threads stripped out of the nut. I went and bought some grade 8 nuts and that took care of the problem.

I've worked on two '05 TE510s since late '05 and never stripped or broke anything.... what am I doing wrong?

I've never had a problem with the Huskys but anything is better than the junk Honda uses for engine parts and calls it aluminum... when the head bolt threads rip out you don't even have to drill the hole to the correct size for the Heli-coil tap, you just tap it and you sometimes don't even need a wrench

I've learned to never use a torque wrench on anything smaller than 8mm or your asking for it. Most of the bolts are 6mm on bikes (8mm head) and I just use a small 1/4" ratchet or a T-handle. Twist with your wrist, and you can feel when it wants to stop. Oil filter cover bolts will be the first ones to snap on any bike since they are long. On Honda XRs its pretty much guaranteed to break them if you torque them to spec.

Edit: after re-reading I think archiebunker meant the oil screen bolt since the oil filter is on the right side... Those are pretty common to strip/break on all bikes also.

Stripping motor mount nuts is odd since they're a fair size, so that is likely defective nuts, or maybe a bad torque spec. No such thing as grade 8 in metric, closest thing is 10.9 I believe. I would guess that most of the bolts on any bike are grade 8.8 (about like a 5). Since they almost all screw into aluminum that should be strong enough.

Maybe its only the newer bikes?... but then I just stripped and greased an '06 and an '07 with no problems and they have the same bolts as the '05 which are at least as good as any other bike I've worked on.

Joel

Owned a few Huskys(but not newer than '03) and never had the striping problem others have had. I only use a torque wrench on major engine parts(cylinder, head, clutch) and never on the smaller parts. I have been dissapointed in the corrosion on some of the fasteners. I bought my '00 WR250 in the crate at the end of 2000 and some bolts were already rusting. A little Scotch Brite and WD40 fixes that.
Norman

ckpc said:

I have turned bolts on your bike - they are not good.

mdbr said:

JoelD said:

Norman_Foley said:

I have turned wrenches on approximately 7 2006 TEs & TCs, and 5 2007 TEs, TCs, and SMRs.

The 2006s seemed fine, the 2007s were not all that strong.

Like many of you I have been turning wrenches on many different things over way too many decades and as much as it pains me to say this - the bolts on the 2007s are not good.

Less than impressed with a 2007 2st Husqvarna subframe that I saw a couple of days ago.

Please note that this may be the first time I have ever said anything less than complementary about Husqvarna bikes.

.

My son and I were out trail ridin Sunday when a storm blew in. We had met a fellow in this cool bike hauler rig who asked us to join him and his buddy. No sooner than 15 minutes after talking about this subject ,the dude broke off a water pump screw on his Honda after installing a aftermarket pump cover !!!Man was he pi..ed ! I was going to say something to him about using a massive T- handle to tighten the bolts with:bonk: , but I didn't want to be tossed out . He had no hardware with him, so I went to my van and picked up several sized bolts(that I collected from restoring Huskys over the years) and a pick! We were able to use the pick to slowly dig out the broken piece and got him going. As we ventured out back to the trails, we thanked him and mentioned that his bike should run better now that it has a Husky bolt in it!! Man I hope this doesn't come back and bite me in the arse!!!
Lesson...T-handles are great tools!!! but not to finish torque them (unless you are skilled professional or at least don't have gorilla arms ) I've used them for years and you got to know your limits ..
Guscycle

Seems hit and miss for experiences with the less than adequate fasteners. But the one thing that seems more defined is that the 07's are the one with the most problems. I wonder what they did differently?

I have had pretty good success with a company called Tek Bolts.

http://www.tekbolt.c...ucts.asp?cat=18

they don't specialize in husky parts but like I said earlier. I bought on the the kits for my RM250 and have officially had to use more on my husky than my RM. The fasteners have fit perfectly and they never rattle out on strip. Price seems steep but I reccommend them over stock.

coffee said:

I'm guessing your talking about Adams 07 WR250. He is pretty pissed about it also. Broke the rear muffler bracket, no wrecks or anything. Had it welded cracked again just below the weld. We JB welded it for this weekend and that broke along with the front tab starting to crack. He ended up zip tying it on the trail, he was pissed. This is his 3rd WR250 in a row and the only one with this issue. His last WR250 had a lot of miles / crashes and NO issues. I had a 99 WR250 and an 02 WR250 with LOTS of miles and no issues. Strange. Then the conversation this weekend with Coffee about the 07 hardware. Husky, step up (or back to what you were using) on the materials please.

This weekend at the Diamond Lake 200 I had both foot peg bolts shear off on the right peg. And, I too have snapped a couple of other bolts when I didn't think I was using much force at all. As for the foot peg bolts, my dealer wants to look at them to see if there is an issue here. It's the first time he has heard of this. Mine is a 2006 TE610. I'm wondering if this started happening after a certain year.

post up your results as to what the dealer says...

Makes me wonder if it is not overzealous fastener tightening on the owners part. Not to dispute coffee's observation. Metallurgy can most certainly be a concern. To play Devil's advocate, there could be variable factors as why the 2007 bolts seem inferior. It could be something as simple as a torque wrench out of calibration at the factory putting undue stress on the bolts. In the last year sales of these bikes have really taken off. Some new owners may not be highly experienced wrench turners. Throw in the fact that we go around tightening our bolts frequently and maybe have a little oil on our hands that migrates it's way onto some of the threads. For a true scientific analysis we would need to test two brand new bolts, one from 2006 and one from 2007. Chuck them up in a vice and put a beam type torque wrench on them and see what pounds per square inch the head shears off.

i am not having trouble with bolts shearing.... they just strip faster than a drunk girl on prom night... no undue pressure added. i don't even know how it happens. I don't use T-handle tools just sockets and i always hand tighten first.

I use a screw-driver type handle on my sockets, and hold the handle with my fingertips, and still have to be careful not to strip the bolts. The threads strip. I've stripped the weep hole bolt (glad it wasn't the case) and one of the bolts in the rear oil screen cover and one that holds the kickstand. I've turned wrenches on motorcycles and lotsa other stuff for about 36 years and I have never seen bolts this soft on anything I've ever worked on. They are junk. It's too bad too, cause they're on a dang nice machine.