Running Hot - Won't Start
Posted March 10, 2002 - 05:05 PM
I had the following problem that maybe someone can help me with.
A week ago I rode another technical area and found myself stalling it alot(more than normal). It was very hard to start, which is unusual for this bike (1-2 kicks normally). So I changed the plug and cleaned the air filter hoping that would fix it. Cold the bike starts first kick everytime.
Assuming I fixed it I started up this creek bed yesterday morning. I found the bike stalling alot again and extremely hard to start. I tried flushing it, hot start out, hot start in. The only thing consistent was letting it cool down.
Then 1st kick it would start.
At one point the bike actually spewed steam underneath the engine, filled the reservior with coolant, then after 5 minutes sucked the coolant back in the radiator or block.
Some have told me the WR426 wasn't meant for a lot of 1st technical stuff. It needs airflow. I can't believe that, or should I? I'm thinking water pump or radiator cap spring.
What do you think?
Thanks for your help.
PS I'm covered in poison oak to boot. But it was still fun!
Posted March 10, 2002 - 05:11 PM
Posted March 10, 2002 - 06:55 PM
He says "Is it s'posed to be smokin' like that?"
[ March 10, 2002: Message edited by: midlifecrisis426 ]
Posted March 10, 2002 - 09:49 PM
give me your PJ/PAJ and needle code.
to get this situation corrected you need a lower letter needle straight. this will allow a slightly richer closed throttle condition.
THIS IS NOT A PILOT JET CHANGE.
let me know.
Posted March 11, 2002 - 05:50 AM
Taffy, My carburator is stock. I haven't change anything. It was always running fine. Should I try turning my pilot screw out?
Justin and MidLife, Do you have the overheating problem on tight trail rides??
Posted March 11, 2002 - 05:53 AM
I guess my needle code is OBDRR. I think?
Posted March 11, 2002 - 11:06 PM
the width of your needle is the third letter. the later the letter the wider the needle/leaner it runs.
they used to come with 'M's in 98/99 then they went to 'P' and 'Q'. 'R' is awful.
get a N427-OCDMM. if you go to WR timing get the N427-OCEMM. the difference is that one needle (D) is at .75 degrees while the 'E' needle is at 1 degree.
a hot runner would be the following
lid off, throttle stop chopped, grey wire done, deoctopus (98/99) WB filter, fairly open pipe (vortip/WB/FMF etc).
160MAJ, 165 MJ, DMM needle, clip 2, 35PJ, 45 PAJ screw, 60 SJ, do the taff mod to your APJ and do it to .024".
this needle (the D)will have less/no hesitation compared to the 'E' series so snap wheelies and bottom end stomp will be better than the E. there is a chance that yopu will be a little rich off idle but i don't think so.
there would be two cures for this. 1) DMN needle 2) go to 55 on the pilot air screw.
someone is running the DMM over here and loves it.
Posted March 12, 2002 - 07:42 AM