blue drips on the swingarm?


16 replies to this topic
  • bigwake

Posted August 24, 2007 - 05:58 PM

#1

blue slimy stuff is on my swingarm near the chain slider..it is blue and sticky/slimey..i think it is from my airfilter?..is that possible? and if it is..is this normal to happen? thanx

  • tofast8350

Posted August 24, 2007 - 06:01 PM

#2

from air filter wont hurt anything

  • Captaincautious7

Posted August 24, 2007 - 06:02 PM

#3

What color is your filter oil? I prefer oil that adheres to the filter.

  • Thomas6x

Posted August 24, 2007 - 06:47 PM

#4

You need to wring out the extra oil, but it does happen.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 24, 2007 - 07:47 PM

#5

Filter oil. Squeeze the excess out a little better, and let it sit out a little longer before installing. Maxima FFT in particular will do that.

  • bigwake

Posted August 24, 2007 - 07:50 PM

#6

ok good..gray, what causes this? i never had it happen until now..

  • pmoravek

Posted August 24, 2007 - 08:10 PM

#7

The vent tube for the airbox is on the lefthand side.
On top of the front part of the swing arm.
I did the same thing.

:blush:

  • mike train

Posted August 29, 2007 - 12:35 PM

#8

I have found that the stock YZ filter will absorb 4 ounces of 30 wt. oil and not drip. It is probably not critical, but I use non-synthetic 2 stroke motor oil . It is formulated to burn clean if any is sucked through. Half fill (approximate is ok) an 8 oz. paper cup, spread/poor around the inside of the filter element, squeeze (not twist) to distribute until an even color shows on the outside. Arizona dust does not get through, no dripping, same result every time, easy, and low cost:)

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  • grayracer513

Posted August 29, 2007 - 12:49 PM

#9

It is probably not critical, but I use non-synthetic 2 stroke motor oil .

It is critical. Motor oils of any kind are not suitable as air filter oils. They are not formulated to adhere to the element, and are nowhere near tacky enough to do a decent job.

  • Budlite

Posted August 29, 2007 - 01:50 PM

#10

I'm sorry but 40 years in the AZ desert tells me that regular motor oil just doesn't work well. Bel Ray is my favorite and I've probably tried all of them.

  • mike train

Posted August 29, 2007 - 02:09 PM

#11

Tacky or not, the filter will absorb 4 ounces of distributed 30 weight oil without dripping. In my case, the intake side of the air cleaner stays clean between maintenance intervals.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 29, 2007 - 04:11 PM

#12

Air filter oils are blended with lighter solvent "vehicles" to thin them during the application process and allow them to work thoroughly through the entire depth of the element foam. The vehicle then evaporates, leaving the stickier, less fluid oil as a coating on the element. Filter oils are also vastly tackier than any motor oil, which improves its ability to catch and hold dirt as it passes through the element.

Another consideration is the depth of the coating. When a particle of dirt impacts the oiled foam, the oil will, if deep enough, wet entirely over the grit, so that the same spot on the filter can catch another piece of grit. Once enough dirt collects to use up all the oil in the immediate area, the filter can no longer trap dirt at that point, and the dirt then will move deeper into the element before being stopped. This process continues until dirt finally moves through the element and into the intake. Since motor oil does not thicken once applied, it tends to sheet out on the foam of the element, and its coating of it is far thinner than with filter oil. Because of that, the process of dirt overwhelming the oil coating and migrating into the engine takes about a third as long as with filter oils.

As a measure of the difference, my 450's take up about 6-7 ounces of Maxima FFT to thoroughly oil them, once squeezed out so that they won't drip.

You use whatever you like, for whatever reason you like. But others need to be aware that motor oils were replaced in this role by purpose blended filter oils for a very sound reason. They don't do the job nearly as well. No filter manufacturer recommends their use, and most specifically warn against it.

  • bigwake

Posted August 29, 2007 - 06:22 PM

#13

so basically..i am using k&n air filter oil..spray..i just spray some on every once and a while..and clean the air filter every couple rides..it is a foam "ready" air filter..is this o.k?

  • grayracer513

Posted August 30, 2007 - 07:47 AM

#14

so basically..i am using k&n air filter oil..spray..i just spray some on every once and a while..and clean the air filter every couple rides..it is a foam "ready" air filter..is this o.k?

Not really.

The filter should not be re-oiled unless they're cleaned first. They should be cleaned as thoroughly as possible (recognizing that it's extremely hard to get them perfectly clean), then dried, then oiled.

When oiling, the oil MUST be worked thoroughly THROUGH the entire element to be effective, not just sprayed on the surface, and no, it won't soak through or penetrate by itself. You have a choice of applying it a little at a time, and working it in until the element will hold no more, or dunk soaking it and squeezing the excess out.

  • bigwake

Posted August 30, 2007 - 01:31 PM

#15

ok thanx for the info! i'll try it

  • Mutu

Posted August 30, 2007 - 07:53 PM

#16

I wonder what chain lube you are running???

  • bigwake

Posted August 31, 2007 - 06:41 AM

#17

it's called chain wax and its a sticky yellow solution





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