How many hours is to much???????????


28 replies to this topic
  • AHRMA17L

Posted September 17, 2007 - 06:11 AM

#21

The main thing is maintenence and the owner. I have seen bikes with 10 hours on then that are completely hammered to bikes with hundreds of hours that have been maintained well that are as tight as new This goes for just about any used bike, but these are a few things I look for when buying a used bike...

Check the swingarm pivot to see if it frozen, and the steering head for tighness and smooth operation. Lift up and the back of the bike to see if there is slop in the linkage.

Look at the rims for straightness, trueness, and scratches. Check the wheel bearings by grabbing the wheels and moving left to right.

Cold start only. If a seller "Get's her warmed up for you," you can just about assume that it will be hard to start or smokes when cold.

Has anything been repainted? What has been replaced from Stock/Original? Does the bike have the original plastic on it? OEM plastic will have the Honda part numbers embossed into it on the backside of the number plates and fenders. Replacement plastic will generally say "Made in Italy" underneath.

What does the bottom of the frame look like? Is all the paint worn off and dented or is it clean?

Look at the fork legs. Are they scratched and dented or clean?

Look in the airbox, what is in there? Dirt, Sand, a dirty filter, filter installed backwards or not installed properly? It will go a long way in telling you how the bike has been maintained.

Look for the original hardware on the bike. If a lot of the hardware has been replaced, something is going on.

If things have been modified, who did the modifications and how were they installed. Some people should never be left alone "improve" a motorcycle due to their lack of mechanical skill.

If the stock items have been replaced, does the owner have the original parts?

  • almostinvincible119

Posted September 17, 2007 - 06:36 AM

#22

i was always told that 50 hours is getting close to it blowing up, and wen i take the piston out its rooted, its not riddin hard just trailrides, so i get confused now.


50 hours on a yzf is nothing. I replaced my piston at 70 hours on my 03 450. 50 hours on any other bike can be an issue.

  • JSanfilippo

Posted September 17, 2007 - 06:46 PM

#23

Cold start only. If a seller "Get's her warmed up for you," you can just about assume that it will be hard to start or smokes when cold.


I think the hot start is equally important.

If the valves are tight, it'll be a pain to start when hot.

  • grayracer513

Posted September 17, 2007 - 08:12 PM

#24

Actually, due to the expansion rates of the aluminum head vs. the valves, a lack of clearance first shows up as a loss of compression when cold, and hard starting to go with it. The bike usually starts and runs fine once it gets warmed up.

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  • machweezy

Posted September 17, 2007 - 09:37 PM

#25

I am experiencing this same problem last two rides ( a loss of compression when cold, and hard starting to go with it. The bike usually starts and runs fine once it gets warmed up). It's an 07 yz 450. I've had it for a year now with 20 mx races (30 Int. vet class) and a few good trail rides. The kickstart has locked up a couple times . What should I be looking at ??? Grayracer??

  • grayracer513

Posted September 17, 2007 - 10:39 PM

#26

I'd be a little surprised if they were tight, but when did you last check your valve clearance?

  • JSanfilippo

Posted September 17, 2007 - 11:09 PM

#27

Actually, due to the expansion rates of the aluminum head vs. the valves, a lack of clearance first shows up as a loss of compression when cold, and hard starting to go with it. The bike usually starts and runs fine once it gets warmed up.


Why do bikes with bad valves get harder to start when hot then? Before my cousin got the top end on his bike done, it would start fine when cold but would only start by bump starting it when it was hot :thumbsup:

  • JSanfilippo

Posted September 17, 2007 - 11:12 PM

#28

The kickstart has locked up a couple times .


My WR did the same thing twice when it was new and yes I use the kicker on an e-start bike almost exclusively. My guess is the auto decomp got hung up or something because when the kick start locked up it felt like the old manual decomp 250f and 426fs did when you got the piston to TDC.

  • grayracer513

Posted September 17, 2007 - 11:48 PM

#29

Why do bikes with bad valves get harder to start when hot then? Before my cousin got the top end on his bike done, it would start fine when cold but would only start by bump starting it when it was hot :thumbsup:

I had a YZ250F that went through two sets of intakes while we had it. Both times, the cold valve clearance dropped below zero (valves held open) and became very difficult to start cold. Once hot, the clearance returned, and it was fine until it cooled off. Rings can cause another whole set of problems.

The kickstart has locked up a couple times .

The bike stalled too quickly for the auto decomp to reset:

http://www.thumperta...323#post3586323





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