07 wr 450 reliable


6 replies to this topic
  • chevytrkn1

Posted August 14, 2007 - 07:16 PM

#1

Is the 07 wr engine the same as the previous 450, anyone having any trouble with the 07 450's. assuming all maintanence is done properly. should it be as relaible as the previous 450's

We ride alot, sat we did 135 mile trail ride and can put many miles on in a year, i dont have a problem changing oils, adjusting valves,etc. but is there any other weak spots that i should be concerned about?

thanks

  • JSanfilippo

Posted August 14, 2007 - 11:57 PM

#2

Is the 07 wr engine the same as the previous 450

No. The engine is based off of the 06 YZ 450f which was a new design. New head, oil tank between the cases, revised cams, etc. It does share bore X stroke measurements and compression ratio, taller primary drive, shorter secondary drive, etc.

anyone having any trouble with the 07 450's.

No. Oil changes and air filter cleanings and the bike is good to go. Its like maintaining a super fast XR or TT-R

assuming all maintanence is done properly. should it be as relaible as the previous 450's

It should. One of the reasons why I chose the WR over everything else is its bulletproof reputation. I'll check the valve clearances at 500 miles, I'm pretty sure they're well within spec because it lights off 1st kick pretty much all the time unless I'm super tired and kick like a wuss...even then the 2nd or 3rd kick will get it going.

We ride alot, sat we did 135 mile trail ride and can put many miles on in a year, i dont have a problem changing oils, adjusting valves,etc. but is there any other weak spots that i should be concerned about?


The only problem area on mine has been the chain rubbing the subframe. Apparently the 06/07 YZs have this issue too. I'm partially to blame though, I let the chain get too loose midway through an 80 mile ride and thought "oh, I'll adjust it at home". I look at it the next day and you can see the marks from the chain :bonk: . I run it on the tight side of spec now:thumbsup:

Honestly, I think thats the only part of the bike that has a questionable design. If you look at the hondas, there is a roller on the bottom part of the main spar that keeps the chain from moving up too much thereby eliminating the possibility of the chain coming up and hitting the subframe.

I'm anal about clean/well oiled air filters. If I did any 100+ mile rides, I'd carry a fresh oiled filter ready to pop in there around 80 mile mark...I say 80 miles because the filter was pretty caked after 80 miles.

Tires! This thing eats rear tires like they're going out of style. 353 miles and the rear on my bike is compleately murdered. Lets just say I should have changed it about 100 miles ago. Riding blue grove (its dry here) and rocky terrain doesn't help the situation though. I think 400 miles on loamy terrain is totally doable without killing the tire too bad.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted August 15, 2007 - 07:33 AM

#3

If you like long rides, plan on getting an oversized tank when you pick up the bike... the 2.1 gallon won't even take me 65 miles :thumbsdn:

I got the IMS 3.1 :ride:

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  • xrmarty

Posted August 15, 2007 - 11:05 AM

#4

If you like long rides, plan on getting an oversized tank when you pick up the bike... the 2.1 gallon won't even take me 65 miles :thumbsdn:

I got the IMS 3.1 :ride:


+1 here on the tank. Its way too small for any longer rides.

  • chevytrkn1

Posted August 15, 2007 - 05:45 PM

#5

thanks guys, That sealed the deal for me. Found a new 07 wr 450 for 6200 out the door. Im gonna wait a week and see if my xr sells, If it dont still gonna buy it and maybe turn the xr into dualsport.

cant wait to ride it


what mods should be done first, other than the obvious free/cheap ones. whos having good success with a certain exhaust? Should i get JD"S jetting kit right away?
handgaurds? better skid plate? others?

  • JSanfilippo

Posted August 15, 2007 - 08:10 PM

#6

thanks guys, That sealed the deal for me. Found a new 07 wr 450 for 6200 out the door.

Thats basically what I paid for mine. A freakin steal considering most 250fs around here sell for that much or more new.




what mods should be done first, other than the obvious free/cheap ones. whos having good success with a certain exhaust? Should i get JD"S jetting kit right away?

Handguards for sure. The stock skidplate (plastic) has worked out good so far, but I'm hoping to get a utah sport cycle (TT skid plate) here pretty soon. Radiator braces are another "must have" item. Resinlips has the unibikers on his bike and they appear bulletproof

As far as mechanical mods:
1.Remove the small "baffle within a baffle" out by drilling the two rivets on the baffle
2. Unplug the gray wire (behind left # plate) from the harness
3. Cut throttle stop to 23.5 mm

This will put the bike in the mechanical state of tune it should have come off the showroom floor. Break it in like this. The stock jetting will get the job done if alittle on the lean side.

Change the oil after the first ride regardless of how many miles you put on it. Then ride 100 or so miles and do the 2nd oil change. Changing the oil in 200-300 mile intervals after the 2nd oil change will be sufficient.

After the break-in, the real fun begins :D

  • Michigan DS

Posted August 15, 2007 - 08:23 PM

#7

Chevy,

To me the mods fall into a "must do" or "nice to do" category-

Must Do-

Throttle Stop (replace with YZ or cut down)
JD or other jetting- get an adjustable fuel screw while you are at it.
AP O-ring mod (thick o-ring)
Air Box Binocular removal
Exhaust insert removal

Nice to Do-
AIS removal
3.1 Gal IMS Fuel Tank
After market pipe- (I bought the FMF TI)
SDG, Guts or other seat (maybe its just me, but my ass hurts after a long ride)
Street Legal kit- kit is about $140.00 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/...1QQcmdZViewItem

Information concerning everyone of these mods, including some videos can be found using the search function. If you have any problems, PM me and I will send you word doc that contains all the info I have gathered.

Good Luck,
Doug

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