My experience with removing the strainer bolt


36 replies to this topic
  • martinfan30

Posted December 08, 2007 - 05:15 PM

#21

Okay, thanks. I found them in the manual. I'm pretty sure I can handle the one in the down-tube. The other one scares me - what's the easiest way to do it right (and not Fitup)? Should I be prepared with an extra gasket?


i would get one gasket just in case it does tear upon removal. there is not much to pulling that case cover off. just make sure to torque all the bolts as recomended in the manual. also make sure the sealing surface is clean and dont use any silicone sealer.

the gasket may not even tear so you might be able to reuse it.

  • FoolishMortal

Posted February 18, 2008 - 06:59 PM

#22

I'm gonna dredge up an old thread...better than starting a new one about the same subject. :)

I'm a mechanical idiot. :applause: I know that there are two screens that need to be cleaned, but where are they? Why would I need a rubber mallet? Do I need to have an extra gasket on hand? Is there an illustrated "XR6 Oil Changes for Dummies" guide somewhere?

BTW, great tip about the anti-seize - I'll have to pick up a tube. Or jar. Or whatever the hell it comes in. :banghead:


I was wrong...so wrong. :cry:

The screen in the downtube, located directly under the frame drain plug, beat me. I tried just about everything to break that mo-fo loose (rubber mallet, mallet with screwdriver, crescent wrench, RoboGrip pliers, socket...), but I couldn't get it to budge. I was too scared of rounding off the bolt head so I gave up. It's got some marks, but it definitely won this battle.

Should I have waited for the bike to cool off after the oil-change warm-up? WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot, mates?

  • Bibleman

Posted February 18, 2008 - 07:04 PM

#23

I did mine with engine cold and no problem.

  • Wild Turkey

Posted February 18, 2008 - 07:09 PM

#24

I was wrong...so wrong. :)

The screen in the downtube, located directly under the frame drain plug, beat me. I tried just about everything to break that mo-fo loose (rubber mallet, mallet with screwdriver, crescent wrench, RoboGrip pliers, socket...), but I couldn't get it to budge. I was too scared of rounding off the bolt head so I gave up. It's got some marks, but it definitely won this battle.

Should I have waited for the bike to cool off after the oil-change warm-up? WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot, mates?


I have a 2006 L with over 13,000 miles on it and let me just say that after reading this thread I was really nervous about removing the plug to clean the strainer. I used a 17mm deep socket as mention somewhere in this thread and just kept applying more and more pressure and luckily it made a loud pop and loosened up ( very nerve racking ). I hope it works out for you. :applause:

  • FoolishMortal

Posted February 18, 2008 - 07:25 PM

#25

I did mine with engine cold and no problem.


I'm the third owner (at best) of this '94 model. I'm willing to bet that the strainer has NEVER been out of this bike. Either that, or the previous owner torqued the sh!t out of it and didn't use anti-seize or anything else.

I have a 2006 L with over 13,000 miles on it and let me just say that after reading this thread I was really nervous about removing the plug to clean the strainer. I used a 17mm deep socket as mention somewhere in this thread and just kept applying more and more pressure and luckily it made a loud pop and loosened up ( very nerve racking ). I hope it works out for you. :applause:


I have a 17mm socket, but not a deep socket, and I couldn't get really good purchase. I guess that's my next bike-specific investment. Luckily, a Harbor Freight just opened about three blocks from my house. :)

  • martinfan30

Posted February 18, 2008 - 09:24 PM

#26

Just make sure its a six-point socket.

  • Ferdinand

Posted February 18, 2008 - 10:27 PM

#27

I wouldn't lose any sleep over getting it done or even worrying about it after 13+years.

  • Denn10

Posted February 18, 2008 - 11:00 PM

#28

Just make sure its a six-point socket.


YEP 6 point for ANY bolt that it will fit on, its just a good idea since you never know when one wants to be a PITA. I wouldnt do it warm. Try cold and when you get out put some anit seize on the threads for next time.

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  • Memnok

Posted June 20, 2008 - 09:30 PM

#29

Ok, I must be He-Man, because my frame strainer came out without any problems... Until I tried to get it out from between the friggen engine and frame tank! It’s like some kind of Japanese orientation puzzle. Is there a secret way to tip or turn the screen to get it out from between the frame and engine?

  • asf

Posted June 21, 2008 - 01:04 PM

#30

If you got frustrated getting that bolt off (Mine took a 2 ft breaker bar and a deep socket....) try getting the oil line back on. The world does not have enough scotch to make that job something to look forward to.

  • martinfan30

Posted June 21, 2008 - 02:39 PM

#31

Ok, I must be He-Man, because my frame strainer came out without any problems... Until I tried to get it out from between the friggen engine and frame tank! It’s like some kind of Japanese orientation puzzle. Is there a secret way to tip or turn the screen to get it out from between the frame and engine?


It will come out with enough twisting and repositioning.

  • zipper600

Posted June 21, 2008 - 02:55 PM

#32

Ok...i just want to share with you, how proud i am of my bullet proof XR600 (except the gearbox :thumbsup:)..
this was how my strainer looked like when i took it out...i bet that in 14 years no one ever had the idea of checking it (me included, except when i got a valve rocker arm seized).

Hey, Martin: dont even try it....they are NOT shavings of my 2nd gear.This pic was taken before i broke it :p

Posted Image

After some cleaning :cry:
Posted Image

  • Wboo

Posted June 22, 2008 - 10:20 AM

#33

As I do not have a Manual or anything like that, could you please be so kind and either show (with pic) or describe where this screen is located?:thumbsup:

  • cleonard

Posted June 22, 2008 - 10:35 AM

#34

As I do not have a Manual or anything like that, could you please be so kind and either show (with pic) or describe where this screen is located?:thumbsup:


It's at the bottom of the frame oil tube, just in front of the engine. It's right next to the oil drain bolt. To remove take the bottom oil line off and then get a big wrench to get the strainer out. If it's been on for a long time, it's real hard to get loose.

  • Wboo

Posted June 22, 2008 - 02:22 PM

#35

Thanks, I was affraid of that. I tried to get it off after removing the oil line and it seemed like it was part of the frame. Hmmmm......next oil change.:thumbsup:

  • gearloos

Posted June 22, 2008 - 09:05 PM

#36

Didn't someone just recently post that they had an XR's only mag drain plug and when trying to remove it the first time they stripped the crap out of it because it was made of aluminum and the frame is steel. Something about dissimilar metals? Maybe I'm thinking of a different forum.


I don't think I posted it but I had both XR's only mag plugs.
The first time I took off the one on the engine, the head broke right off the dam bolt while tightening it back on and I though I was barely even getting snug!!! :thumbsup: very unhappy with that. I was lucky tho, I took a little chisel and tapped one time and the thing then finger turned right out with a small screwdriver on the broke edge.
The one on the downtube seems to be ok still, fingers crossed.

  • bigredmachine

Posted June 22, 2008 - 10:02 PM

#37

my strainer had the same junk on it. my proceedure was this 1: beer, 2: yell at dog for knocking over and drinking beer, 3: get another beer, 4: same wrench, 5: clean screen, 6: another beer, 7: does it matter????:thumbsup:


I love my dog, but she is a drunk. always knocks my beer over.

:p





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