Hi fellow DRZ riders,
Just got hold of the last 400E my dealer's getting for this year and I'm glad I did. I'm a 50 year young dirt rider/racer. Had a bad crash in an event on my '90 KX250 (broke the other one previously too) last year so after 8 months healing decided to get a new bike. ('99RM250. The mistake was not installing the flywheel weight the dealer advised me to do. Even albee uses one. On my third ride on it I decided to practice some MX at my local track and when I got to the whoops section, tried to take them 3 at a time like usual. Big mistake. Lost control of the bike and did them all at about 30 mph and bailed off the back at the end separating 2 ribs and crushing my tailbone.Swore off any further dirt riding right then (I'm not usually a crasher)after the pain wore off a little I had heard about the DRZ and thought it would be the perfect solution to all my needs. Powerful, controllable, versatile, etc.so I got one and I've been grinning ever since. Being a dyed in the wool 2-stroker I had reservations but after learning how to stay off the back brake and gas it more over the jumps and landings I soon found out the bike is a dream come true .
Of course I've had to personalize her on the way. Made it street legal with an Oregon plate color copied and shrunk down 30% and laminated to fit the Acerbis Ralley Guards, Enduro rear fender/extention, mounted a br.lite switch to the r.brake pedal (homemade bracket). Acerbis folding mirror, and an analog speedo/odo/tripmeter to replace the factory odo. (fits the stock bracket and drive cable adds no weight)all this individually bought from Baja Designs, Total about $180-. As far as off road goes, the bike is totally capable stock. I can climb anything my KX250 buddies can in 2nd gear occasionally going to 1st at the top.I can smoke them when the going gets tight I tried a 15 toth cs. sprocket but end up having to shift more in the woods and probably can't get a 2nd gear moto start. will probably try a 46 or 45 rear and get the rear axle back a bit as a bonus. Removed the air snorkel and dropped the clip 1 position. Tonight just got through modifying my stock exhaust. Cut the silencer in half and commenced to drilling holes in a few baffle areas to up the flow 30% and decrease turbulance while still maintaing some back pressure. also drilled out the spark arrestor tip to 1-1/2" leaving the screen and cap intact (don't think it hurts the flow that much).These mods only raised the sound output to a pleasant 4stroke rumble (instead of a sewing machine sound the wife says)This baby really rips now! It pulls harder and earlier off the bottom, I have to really hang on with the knees and hands when the mid and top come too. It feels like a very healthy 250 2-stroke power now but smooooth and linear.
other plans include akking some fork oil and compression adjustments for moto work. been talking to the Kouba link people and they are promising modified "dog bones" for the rear that will lower the rear 3/4" and make more usable/ progressive suspension travel with no sacrifice to plushness.Also looking at getting the Scotts steering damper triple clamp pro taper combo for $599-. Can't go wrong.Can't wait to enter my first local MX super senior class with with a license plate and brake light going.
Alot has happened in the last 1-1/2 months especially the DRZ has saved me from certain death (no life without dirt riding)see y'all

Cra-zmike, A guy after my own 4-stroke heart
I too am trying to get mine road legal
I also modified my exhast end cap. 1 3/8" hole and cut the spark arrestor end solid cap off, but made a sleeve so I can add it back on Picture's will be posted next week.
but I too was wondering about drilling holes
around the center internal baffle to increase
flow, but I am waiting first to be approved
for road, then I start the drilling.
what did you end up with for a main jet size.
and what altitude are you at. Thanks Tom

Borsy,
Fortunately, I put in for my plate at the dealership so no inspection by the Oregon DMV. It took about a week to get it. I'm at about 900 feet elevation and when I first got the bike, it wouldn't idle at warm up and surged/ died after warm. upon inspecting the plug, I found it an alarming bright white (not light brown) so immediately took steps to richen by raising the needle 1 notch. There was such a great improvement I haven't changed jetting yet but after reading another owner's post about how to rejet and adjust the idle mixture without removing the carb, I'm probably going to try a 165 and open up the idle screw 1/4-1/2 turn more.
Also working on building an oval aluminum silencer slip-on for closed course racing for even more power and get that weight down.I'd also like to find a shift lever a little longer than the stock one. Tossed my old boots after the injury and got a pair of Fox Formas. They have great protection but are so stiff, I can barely get my toe under the lever for a quick shift although for moto I could probably do a whole race in third gear except the start.
On the silencer, I drilled a 3/8" and a 5/16" hole side by side in the end of the tube cap coming out of the first baffle then 3- 5/16" holes spaced evenly in the body of the 2nd baffle wall. started out with less holes, then drilled 1 ea. extra until the it started to respond. The surprise was that the bike comes on earlier and stronger now. I cut the silencer about 8-1/2" from the rear to separate the two halves with a band saw then mig welded it back together. I weighed the pipe/silencer on a bathroom scale when it was off and got about 8 lbs. Figure I can cut off at least 5 lbs. going to aluminum. Late...Mike

Mike,

I have the same problem with the shift lever on my S version. I also have brand new boots that are ultra stiff. I raised the lever one tooth and it helps a bit until I get my boots broken in. Let me know if you have any luck finding a longer lever and how it works out. I still want to keep my bike comfortable when I am riding it to work in regular boots. Chris

------------------
DRZ-400S