ok guys don't laugh at me to hard,but what do you have to do to open up the air box?Ive never did it on my xr400 so I don't know exactly what it requires.Do you just take the air box lid off and re-jet?

[This message has been edited by Tennessee Thumper (edited 03-25-2000).]

That's the most I've heard of. Just remove the rubber snorkel and rejet. Some have talked about removing the screen after the air filter, but most don't in order to protect against backfires.

NOW...how and the heck do you rejet this thing? I got sizes from a guy as being a 170 main and 48 pilot (sea level). I went to the local dealer and picked these up. Then I came home and pulled off the bodywork for the first time (got the bike earlier this week). HOLY COW! I can't seem to find an easy way to rotate the carb so I can access the jets! It's so tight, and there's an oil-vent catch tank that's in the way on the right side. Can somebody state nicely how to get the carb to turn sideways?

Also, there's a brass thing in there that looks like a pilot jet until you pull it out and notice that it's not a jet, but an adjustment screw of some sort. I don't have a manual, so I don't know what to set it back to. Any advice?

This is my first four-stroke, coming off a YZ250. I cannot BELIEVE how complex this carb is. Now I understand why some companies lean towards fuel injection!

When I was checking out scarymyths DRZ at the showroom, I did notice that the main jet access is a little tight because of the starter.

This is the same carb as on my WR400 (1999). I can get at the main without rotating the carb but have to rotate to access the needle jet (top of the carb) and pilot jet (bowl).

Sounds like you'll have to rotate to get to the main? When I saw the DRZ at the dealer, my thought was that the boal drain/main would be tight but with the right tools, do-able. The boal drain (bottom of the carb where main jet is accessible from) comes off with a 14mm, probably need a open end or closed end wrench. Then the main is a 6mm (I think). You can probably buy a main jet tool from your local shop or elsewhere and cut it down/modify it to get it to work. There are many jet tools available via aftermarket companies too so it may take some digging to find one that can be modified to suit your needs.

To rotate the carb all I have to do is remove the throttle cables off the right side of the bike, loosen the boots that hold the carb in place (both sides of course), and take off one hose that goes into the engine. Doing this allows access to any and all jets without removing the whole damn thing although it is still tight. Hopefully, your DRZ is the same way.

I know it sounds tedious, but after doing it once or twice, it really isn't that bad. Plus, it's good to know how to adjust the throttle linkage anyway eh?

Please try this and report back on your success/failure.

Thanks,
Bryan...

WOW! I finally got my carb turned enough. I had to unbolt the oil catch tank (to the right of the carb) and pull off two of its lines to push it down and sort of out of the way. Then I pulled the front of the carb out of the boot somewhat, and rotated as much as I could. The throttle cables got tight, but it was *j*u*s*t* enough to get a small flathead screwdriver in there.

All this just in time to find out that my dealer gave me the wrong pilot jet. After getting the right one, I installed and put the bike back together.

So now I have no airbox snorkel and a 165 main and 48 pilot. Made a BIG difference. Low end throttle response seemed much better, and overall power seemed better. Note that my bike only has 30 miles on it, so I'm talking 1/4 to 1/2 throttle here. I'm probably not even getting into the new main jet.

Anyway, I would DEFINITELY do this to your bikes. Sounds better and runs better. I'm going out tomorrow to ride for the first time (more than an hour). This time tomorrow I'll be flying by redwood trees and climbing hills on trails that my club just made. It's going to be great!

Oops. I forgot some details:

1. You can get to the main jet without rotating the carb, but I had to get to the pilot as well. That's why I rotated.

2. The other adjustment under the carb is the air screw. This is accessible even when the float bowl is on, as it is outside of the float seal (but you'll need a *small* screwdriver or special tool). I turned this back out to 2 full turns. Many people are doing this to get rid of a stumble off-idle.

Lovin' this bike!

See the sticky at the top of the forum....

William1 said:

Holy moly batman...

I doubt he's riding anymore since he's been in the retirement home so long. This thread is from 2000! :lol:

I'm hoping there was another post above yours that got deleted right?

:busted: :rant:

Nah, was just being mischievous...resurrecting the dead, to see if I could sucker anyone in... :devil:

and I ruined your fun... Sorry dude. :lol: