HELP - FASTLINE BRAKE LINE INSTALL



4 replies to this topic
  • jj

Posted August 11, 2000 - 06:55 PM

#1

I think something is wrong with my new Fastine front brake line.
If I install the Fastline as I do the stock line it doesn't fir correctly. Yes it is a 99WR line! :D Here is the problem;
When held horizantaly, the brake line has an end that is slightly bent in the North/South direction. This is the end that is the top. It also has an end that is straight in the North/South direction but it slightly bent in in the East/West direction, this is the bottom end. (These may be bad metaphors, but look at yours and you'll see what I mean :)). When you install the top the manual states that the North/South bend is supposed to be pointing up when you install it to the mastercylinder. When I line this bend up correctly it doesnt allow the bottom banjo to line up flush against the bottom mastercylinder. It actually looks like its lined up in exactly the opposite direction.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing something?

Thank you!

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

[This message has been edited by JJ (edited 08-11-2000).]

  • Clark_Mason

Posted August 11, 2000 - 07:12 PM

#2

When I installed my Fastline fornt brake line the bottom fitting would slighly interfer with the caliper which would not allow the bottom banjo fitting to seat flush when the bolt was tihghtened, this is hard toi see get som light and look closely, causing a brake fluid leak at the bottom banjo fitting. The solution is 1) use a Dremal moto tool and releve (grind off) some of the caliper which interfears with the steel neck coming off of the banjo so the banjo will seat flush to the caliper or 2) use two copper washers on the caliper side of the banjo and one on the bolt head side or 3) use a thicker copper washer on the caliper side. I used option 1) and it works great.

Clark

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  • jj

Posted August 11, 2000 - 09:49 PM

#3

Thanks for your input Clark. I went back out to try your suggestions but no go. I cant even bend the banjo far enough to get it on. The bend is pointing at the caliper and thus not allowing the banjo to seat on the caliper at all.

Question, is the clear cover on your brakeline on the top or the bottom?

I'm wondering why Yamaha states that when you mount the top banjo you must have the bend pointing upward. That actually makes the line coming off the mastercylinder dip down below the mastercylinder before it heads up. Does that make sense?


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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

  • Clark_Mason

Posted August 12, 2000 - 06:08 AM

#4

JJ

The section of brake line covered with the CLEAR VINAL goes on top. I have the fastline brakline that uses the stock routing. With this routing the the line will come down from the top of the caliper, go inside the bleader nipple, and the banjo will attach to the caliper. Again the steel shank coming off the banjo may interfer with the caliper and require clearencing.

On the fast line brakline both ends come off with slight bends but neither end is a 90 degree bend.

Mount the bottom fitting first and then the top.

When bleeding the system use a turkey baster a small section of hose to connect the turkey baster to the bleeder nipple on the caliper. Fill the baster connect it to the nipple, open the nipple and squeeze the fluid in from the bottom until it fills the master cyclinder on top. Then put the cover on the master cyclinder, take it off the bike and hold it so the line is in as straight up as possible then tap the line up and down its length, this helps get the bubbles to come up the line to the master cyclinder on top. Now remount the master cyclinder on the handle bar and use the normal squeez, and open the bleeder, close the bleeder, open the lever and repeat to finish the bleeeding. Using this mehthod, )ie filling from the bottom) the whole proces will go a lot faster.

Clark

  • jj

Posted August 12, 2000 - 07:01 AM

#5

Clark thanks again I will definately try your baster suggestion. I also found that bleeding at the top banjo has really helped also.
I thought the clear vinyl portion went on top aswell,unitl, I read pg-5-24 of the 99 WR manual. The middle picture shows that there is a upward bend in the banjo that forces the hose down out of the cylinder. That got me thinking so I looked at the stock hose and sure enough that is how it looks. The screwed upthing is that the portion of my Fastline line that has this bend is the end without the vinyl cover...AAARRRGGG!!!!
I wish I could get ahold of Fstline, cuase god knows that my local dealers wont know anything...

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender




 
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