XR650L clamp on air filter


19 replies to this topic
  • Frank ZX

Posted August 05, 2007 - 12:11 PM

#1

I just got a UNI clamp on air filter.I'm not sure if I should use it though?
I wanted to stuff the battery and electrical in the air box to clean up the back of the bike.I only ride it on the street.What is your openion?

  • martinfan30

Posted August 05, 2007 - 12:17 PM

#2

I just got a UNI clamp on air filter.I'm not sure if I should use it though?
I wanted to stuff the battery and electrical in the air box to clean up the back of the bike.I only ride it on the street.What is your openion?


i use a uni pod filter on mine(fcr 41 pumper carb). i also did the battery relocation to the airbox. very happy with this mod. with a xr600r left side cover it really slims the bike down and looks good. check this link out for my mod.

http://www.thumperta...tery relocation

  • martinfan30

Posted August 05, 2007 - 12:18 PM

#3

since then i mounted the fuse block in theair box. also thinking of using a crf450x battery, smaller, lighter and only a few less cranking amps.

  • cleonard

Posted August 05, 2007 - 12:36 PM

#4

I just got a UNI clamp on air filter.I'm not sure if I should use it though?
I wanted to stuff the battery and electrical in the air box to clean up the back of the bike.I only ride it on the street.What is your openion?


You may have jetting issues. The jetting in the stock carb relies on the airflow characteristics of the airbox. It causes a slight vacuum. In general it is easy to get top end gains, but getting the low end to work well is difficult. The changes are large enough that a richer needle is usually needed.

If you ever have to ride through water an airbox is a must. It doesn't take much water to cause issues with a pod setup. They also can't take as much dust. Not a problem if you are a road only rider.

The 450X battery should be a good mod. Only saves about 1.5 or 2 pounds, but every little bit helps. Getting the battery closer to the center of mass is a big help.

  • martinfan30

Posted August 05, 2007 - 12:46 PM

#5

You may have jetting issues. The jetting in the stock carb relies on the airflow characteristics of the airbox. It causes a slight vacuum. In general it is easy to get top end gains, but getting the low end to work well is difficult. The changes are large enough that a richer needle is usually needed.

If you ever have to ride through water an airbox is a must. It doesn't take much water to cause issues with a pod setup. They also can't take as much dust. Not a problem if you are a road only rider.

The 450X battery should be a good mod. Only saves about 1.5 or 2 pounds, but every little bit helps. Getting the battery closer to the center of mass is a big help.


you are right about the plenum chamber aspect, but i have been able with some rejetting of the fcr to get the engine to respond correctly at all throttle settings/rpm range. no hiccups or hesitations at all!

  • Bibleman

Posted August 05, 2007 - 05:26 PM

#6

What jetting changes did you make to have it work with the pod?

  • martinfan30

Posted August 05, 2007 - 09:20 PM

#7

What jetting changes did you make to have it work with the pod?


158 main, 3rd clip pos. , 45 pilot 2 turns out, 100 airjet.

  • Frank ZX

Posted August 05, 2007 - 10:14 PM

#8

I have a 158/55 jetting now with the stock filter,baffle removed,and Dave's mods.Should I start with a 165/58 jets with the pod?

  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 06:37 AM

#9

I have a 158/55 jetting now with the stock filter,baffle removed,and Dave's mods.Should I start with a 165/58 jets with the pod?


i tried that first, too rich on top. then i went 160 for awhile, now ive settled 158. 55 pilot is too rich for me(4300 ft.) how high are you? you might just try what you have or the 160 if you are above sea lev.

  • Frank ZX

Posted August 06, 2007 - 01:18 PM

#10

Martin,I'm about 600 ft. above sea level.So does this mean I need more fuel than if I were at a higher elevation?

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  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 01:27 PM

#11

I'm about 600 ft. above sea level.So does this mean I need more fuel?


yes. yo might want like you said 165/58. if nothing else, just to start rich and work down. actually, 170 is what sudco and eddie sisneros says i should be using! no way this thing would run , you would see me from all the black smoke though!!!

  • motometal

Posted August 06, 2007 - 02:04 PM

#12

pods are over rated in my book, performance wise anyway. Stock boxes can be somewhat restrictive, but there's way more to this than just back pressure. Stock systems usually have more of a boot (or "stack") between the box and carb, giving the carb good consistent flow.

As far as pods go, the type with foam (UNI) on the end is better than the type with the hard endcap. Endcap type forces the air to make a 90 degree turn within a couple inches of going into the carb...not good.

As a general rule, pods work better with non CV carbs than with CV carbs. Note the FCR is non CV, the stocker CV.

These are just general thoughts, I hope you prove me wrong by getting it to work great and reporting back to us. It's cheap to try.

  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 02:08 PM

#13

pods are over rated in my book, performance wise anyway. Stock boxes can be somewhat restrictive, but there's way more to this than just back pressure. Stock systems usually have more of a boot (or "stack") between the box and carb, giving the carb good consistent flow.

As far as pods go, the type with foam (UNI) on the end is better than the type with the hard endcap. Endcap type forces the air to make a 90 degree turn within a couple inches of going into the carb...not good.

As a general rule, pods work better with non CV carbs than with CV carbs. Note the FCR is non CV, the stocker CV.

These are just general thoughts, I hope you prove me wrong by getting it to work great and reporting back to us. It's cheap to try.


like i said before the pod works well with my fcr, great performance all over the rpm range. it was also a neccesity due to me relocatihg battery and all electrical parts to airbox. it can be done!:thumbsup:

  • motometal

Posted August 06, 2007 - 03:31 PM

#14

he doesn't have an fcr though, right?

I did read your post...

  • Frank ZX

Posted August 06, 2007 - 03:42 PM

#15

No,I have the factory carb.I don't care about more power,I just want to stuff the batt.,and electrical in the air box.But I don't want to loose power.

  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 04:02 PM

#16

No,I have the factory carb.I don't care about more power,I just want to stuff the batt.,and electrical in the air box.But I don't want to loose power.


i noticed no pwr loss when i was done with the batt. relo. and pod install. the nice thing is, you can always reverse the swap!

  • Frank ZX

Posted August 06, 2007 - 04:58 PM

#17

My needle is shimmed 0.020 now,should I shim the needle 0.030 or more,or try to get another needle?

  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 05:06 PM

#18

My needle is shimmed 0.020 now,should I shim the needle 0.030 or more,or try to get another needle?


you might be ok with the .020" remember dont do to many adjustments in 1 shot! will be hard to tell what did what. when i did this swap, i was running the keihin cv carb(stock) with the dyno jet kit. the needle in that kit is different than the stock one. try your 165/58 first then work from that baseline.

  • Frank ZX

Posted August 06, 2007 - 05:15 PM

#19

Good idea Martin,thanks for all your help.

  • martinfan30

Posted August 06, 2007 - 05:18 PM

#20

more than glad to help!:thumbsup: :ride: :thumbsup: :ride: :thumbsup: :ride:





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