Rectifier question


16 replies to this topic
  • exaresix

Posted July 30, 2007 - 07:36 PM

#1

I've ordered a ProCycle rectifier/regulator (same unit as BD) in order to convert my AC dual sport system to DC (in combination with a small battery). Does one simply connect this unit to the headlight or tail light power output, or is it necessary to somehow bypass the stock AC regulator? Here's a pic of the unit:
Posted Image

  • beezerjoe

Posted July 30, 2007 - 08:21 PM

#2

That's a tympanium regulator/rectifier. Pretty decent unit too. I've used them on my 12volt DC conversions. You will be eliminating your stock AC regulator to install this unit. Yellow wires to the stator,red and brown to the battery and from the battery to the switch gear and ground. Real simple set up. What kind of bike is this going on? You might have to do some stator modification.

  • exaresix

Posted July 31, 2007 - 06:06 PM

#3

This is going on an xr600r with a fairly decent stator output...80 or 90 watts.

Below is a diagram of the stock regulator (item No. 5) and part of the harness. Should I simply unplug the stock unit from its connection point and plug in the new unit's yellow wires in the same spot? (Just want to be sure when you say connect it to the stator).

Posted Image

  • cleonard

Posted July 31, 2007 - 09:42 PM

#4

It's a little more complicated. What year XR600 do you have? If it is 90 or earlier you will have to float the ground. If it is later all you have to do is disconnect the green stator wire from ground. At least that is what I remember.

  • beezerjoe

Posted July 31, 2007 - 10:46 PM

#5

It's a little more complicated. What year XR600 do you have? If it is 90 or earlier you will have to float the ground. If it is later all you have to do is disconnect the green stator wire from ground. At least that is what I remember.


Good thing you mentioned that. I just looked up some wiring diagrams and it looks like an '88 to '90 will need to have the ground floated at the stator.The '91 to 2000 is just like you said you will have to disconnect the green wire so it is free from the chassis ground. If this is the one you have Exaresix you will have to take your green wire and yellow with white wire from the stator and attach the individually to the yellow wires on the new regulator/rectifier. Attach the red and brown to the battery as per your instructions and ground your battery and wiring harness to the chassis properly. If you have one of the older ones you may consider buying a new stator from Rickystator or Electrosport that already have the ground floated for a DC conversion. I think they both sell them for about $150

  • exaresix

Posted August 01, 2007 - 04:46 AM

#6

Thank you. Mine is a 1997.

It's funny, Pro Cycle's ad says "convert your AC headlight output to DC" which in a way suggests simply plugging the new regulator/rectifier into the power output connectors that supply the headlight. I will use the technique you guys suggested.

Thanks.

  • biker t

Posted August 01, 2007 - 06:06 AM

#7

actually, if you only want to run your head lights it could be done by simply connecting the already A/Coutput directly onto the two yellow which would convert it to d/c output(brown and black). problems encounted would be voltage fluctuations.possibly a regulator needed otherwise at higher speeds voltage generated could end up blowing d/c bulbs.

  • cleonard

Posted August 01, 2007 - 07:19 AM

#8

Thank you. Mine is a 1997.

It's funny, Pro Cycle's ad says "convert your AC headlight output to DC" which in a way suggests simply plugging the new regulator/rectifier into the power output connectors that supply the headlight. I will use the technique you guys suggested.

Thanks.


Here is what I think that you need to do. First you need to find the stator leads and disconnect them. One is green and one is yellow with a white stripe. Connect those to yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier. Connect the output of the regulator to where the regulator went. Red to yellow/white and black to the green.

Now for the next problem. Are you going to use a battery? It will need a switch of some kind. You need at least a "battery eliminator" if you are not planning on a battery.

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  • exaresix

Posted August 01, 2007 - 09:13 AM

#9

Thanks for all the great replies, I'm starting to get the picture of the various ways to connect. I will be using a battery, and I am already using the Pro Cycle electrical harness and switchgear that runs off the AC headlight output.

Here's what I'm going to do initially (and see if it works):

1. Connect the Pro Cycle regulator/rectifier yellow wires to the existing AC headlight output.

2. Connect the reg/rect output wires to a battery

3. Connect the battery to the Pro Cycle electrical harness.

The only issue I see is that I would be using both the stock and the additional voltage regulators. The stock regulator output will feed into the new reg/rect. We'll see if I can keep the battery charged using that system. Will post a follow up soon.

  • Thorpey

Posted August 01, 2007 - 12:27 PM

#10

Before you burn up your stator, go to bajadesigns' website. Go to the tech section and look at the install manual for the 600. It tells you how to properly install the regulator. There are alot of ways to vary the setup but without knowing what year it is (grounded vs floating ground) and, whether or not it's the stock stator, you can be headed for $$$ trouble...............
In the tech diagrams there is also a schematic on the regualtor- grounded stator and floating ground hook ups

  • beezerjoe

Posted August 01, 2007 - 08:21 PM

#11

Before you burn up your stator, go to bajadesigns' website. Go to the tech section and look at the install manual for the 600. It tells you how to properly install the regulator. There are alot of ways to vary the setup but without knowing what year it is (grounded vs floating ground) and, whether or not it's the stock stator, you can be headed for $$$ trouble...............
In the tech diagrams there is also a schematic on the regualtor- grounded stator and floating ground hook ups


I looked at the diagram for the 600 and it shows it wired with their stator and the headlight run on an AC circuit and a separate AC to DC set up for for all the street legal stuff. I would bet with the little NICAD battery the headlight just draws to much amperage and it wouldn't be enough to keep up. Makes perfect sense to keep the headlight on AC. In order to do this it looks to me like the stator will have to upgraded in order to run it like their diagram shows since the stock stator doesn't have the 2 extra legs of ground floated AC.

  • exaresix

Posted August 02, 2007 - 04:54 AM

#12

Well, I'm going to find out what happens very soon.

I also checked the wiring diagrams. I looked at the diagram with the double-circuit aftermarket stator and the one with the stock stator. Each shows the stock AC regulator connected to the green and yellow/white wires of the stator. I will therefore remove the stock AC regulator, and connect the yellow wires of the new reg/rect in the same two spots...then on to the battery and wire harness. If it doesn't have enough power to run the headlight and tail light without draining the battery, I'll reduce the bulb wattage of the headlight (currently 55W with tail of 15W). The stock stator puts out 80W, but I'm not sure how much of that really reaches the harness...I hope all!

  • cleonard

Posted August 02, 2007 - 07:33 AM

#13

Well, I'm going to find out what happens very soon.

I also checked the wiring diagrams. I looked at the diagram with the double-circuit aftermarket stator and the one with the stock stator. Each shows the stock AC regulator connected to the green and yellow/white wires of the stator. I will therefore remove the stock AC regulator, and connect the yellow wires of the new reg/rect in the same two spots...then on to the battery and wire harness. If it doesn't have enough power to run the headlight and tail light without draining the battery, I'll reduce the bulb wattage of the headlight (currently 55W with tail of 15W). The stock stator puts out 80W, but I'm not sure how much of that really reaches the harness...I hope all!


There is one problem. You need to connect the DC regulator to the wire from the stator. If you connect to where the AC reg is, it will not work. Between the stator wire and the AC regulator the green wire coming from the stator is connected to the frame. You need to undo the green wire to the frame connection or your DC will not be referenced to the frame.

  • exaresix

Posted August 02, 2007 - 08:51 AM

#14

My lighting system is not currently grounded the frame. I've read many times on this forum (specifically from Jeff at the Quad Shop) that the DC system is NOT to be grounded to the frame.

See this thread:

http://www.thumperta...ectifier ground

  • cleonard

Posted August 02, 2007 - 11:33 AM

#15

My lighting system is not currently grounded the frame. I've read many times on this forum (specifically from Jeff at the Quad Shop) that the DC system is NOT to be grounded to the frame.

See this thread:

http://www.thumperta...ectifier ground


The 89 stator only has a single wire coming from the lighting coil on the stator. The other is connected to the stator and through the engine to the frame. You bike is not like that. I'm pretty sure your lighting coil is not grounded on one side. That is why you have two wires coming from the stator. The green stator wire is grounded to the frame in the wiring harness. Because of this you can connect the minus of the DC side frame. It's up to you though and you can wire it however you want. Not relying on the frame for ground return is good practice. It just that you don't have to. This change to the wiring was made in 1991.

  • exaresix

Posted August 02, 2007 - 01:07 PM

#16

Yes, that is my understanding, and that is why I don't want to ground it to the frame.

Update: Received the reg/rect today and installed the two yellow wires in the two slots where the old stock AC reg was. Then on to the battery and harness. All works well, battery seems to be maintaining a charge and all lights are bright. Horn finally works!

  • exaresix

Posted August 04, 2007 - 12:43 PM

#17

Bike and electrics are working great, no grounding to frame. Here are a couple pics, the first showing the ProCycle regulator/rectifier in place. In the upper left of the photo is the spot where the old AC regulator was. I transferred the stock connector bundle there to make room for the new reg/rect. In the second photo is the battery I'm using. It is a sealed lead-acid and fits neatly into the bottom of the airbox. It is 800 milliamps.

Posted Image

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