WR400 washing



16 replies to this topic
  • bobwombat

Posted July 05, 2000 - 03:08 PM

#1

As a new WR400 owner, does anyone have suggestions re: helpful hints prior to bike washing? understand should cover hole on right side of cylinder but recently washed bike for the 1st time & had difficulty starting. thx for all thoughts. bob

  • Mitch_from_Oz

Posted July 05, 2000 - 04:31 PM

#2

Hey Bob,

Simple, just dont use a high pressure hose and dont force water into the pipe, cylinder, carb or swingarm seals and such.

Most importantly, make sure you spray areas that have "hinges", springs, etc.. with CRC or equivalent. This makes sure eveything dries and is lubricated correctly.

Mitch

  • RodH

Posted July 05, 2000 - 05:14 PM

#3

1. Make sure you cover the hole on the left side of the head.
2. Plug the muffler. I have an E-Series, so I put a plastic bag over the discs and tape it on to make it 100% water proof.
3. I always take the seat off and tape up the airbox hole, as water can get in there easily.
4. Mix some truck wash up in a spray bottle, and spray it all over the bike. I use a product called TW20, it's non toxic, bio degradable and won't affect alloy and plastic like some truck washes, be carefully.
You will never have to scrub it again, I leave it for about 10 mins, and then hose it off with a garden hose, and all the mud and crap comes off very easy, it looks like new every time.
5. Run the bike for a few minutes after you have finished riding it, as water can sit in places that you wouldn't think possible. I always go for a ride to get the water out of the brakes and wheel bearings etc.


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RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>
400 Thumpers Australia</A>
2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted July 05, 2000 - 05:38 PM

#4

I agree with Rod: Always run your bike immediately after washing to get the engine to cook off any water hiding in the nooks and crannies. It also ensures your bike is ready to start without any glitches the next time you fire it up.

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99 WR, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark, got forked by Pro Action.
AMA, NETRA

For clarification: WE'LL be having a KICK ASS time in Moab!! Right Mitch?!!

  • Grum_from_Oz

Posted July 05, 2000 - 10:39 PM

#5

Hey RodH,
where do you buy your truck wash (TW20) and how much is it?
Cheers
Simon Grummett.

  • RodH

Posted July 06, 2000 - 01:07 AM

#6

Super Cheap Autos "You get the lot for less" :)

I bought 1lt for $6 and that last about 10 washes. you don't need much at all, I put it in a spray bottle that I bought from Coles, and then I fill it up with hot water.

You can also buy a 5lt bottle for about $20



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RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>
400 Thumpers Australia</A>
2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

  • Dave_VanBrocklin

Posted July 06, 2000 - 03:29 AM

#7

I use Simple Green,it's Biodegradable,and you can buy it almost anywhere. Use it straight. Spray on ,let it sit a couple minutes,and hose it off.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted July 06, 2000 - 07:12 AM

#8

Even though the spark plug boot has a seal around it, water still gets into the recessed hole. I didn't start my bike after the first washing and the water left in there corroded my plug. Now I always ride after washing.

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  • bobwombat

Posted July 06, 2000 - 09:38 PM

#9

thx to all for your suggestions. i realize not the most technical of subjects but your responses were greatly appreciated. many thx to all wr owners for your help & a great forum! bob

  • Bryan

Posted July 06, 2000 - 10:07 AM

#10

I'm digging the fact that we got some new good ideas on something I always took for granted!

Thanks everybody!

I LOVE THIS PLACE! :)

Bryan...

  • WR400_Jay

Posted July 07, 2000 - 02:08 PM

#11

RodH not to put down how you wash your bike but somtimes there are riding conditions that are too nasty for just a hose alone.

I ride in a national forest here in Ohio that in some parts there used to be coal mines. The general composition of the soil is high sulfur coal deposits, sand stone, limestone, and quartz.

I think this stuff was meant to destroy bikes. It's wet, even now in the summer, and you ride through mud most of the day. I've gone through a set of brakes in 350 miles. It cakes up and drys hard before the end of the day. I used to use just a hose but when bike wash time was in excess of 2 hours I had to buy a pressure washer.

I'm real careful get the bulk of the mud off and then do what you guys do and hit it with the pressure washer one more time and it comes out clean.

You have to wash the bike within by the next morning or else it is rusty :)

I also spray the bike with Pam cooking spray and it helps greatly.



------------------
00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro
White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted July 07, 2000 - 05:37 PM

#12

I too use Simple Green. My soap of choice though is Westleys Clear Magic. Although not a super emulsifier (spray on wash off), this stuff, with a small amount of elbow grease, works great. I prefer it over Simple Green. Simple Green is cheaper though and Sam's Club sells it . I blow lots of cash buying battalion sized toilet paper, paper towels, dish soap, etc at Sams.
After washing, I douche the heck out of my engine w/ WD40, fire her up for 15 minutes of slow plonking around my yard, shut her down, spray the chain w/ Maxima Chain Wax, spray the plastic, frame and rims/tires w/ Armor All, pop open a brew and admire my bike.

------------------
99 WR, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark, got forked by Pro Action.
AMA, NETRA

For clarification: WE'LL be having a KICK ASS time in Moab!! Right Mitch?!!


[This message has been edited by Kevin in New Hampshire (edited 07-08-2000).]

  • Gil

Posted July 07, 2000 - 06:43 PM

#13

Now this is something I'm good at!

Costco stores in my area (So. Cal.), carry a citrus based degreaseing product called Oil Eater, for about 7 bucks a gallon. I've been using it for probably 3 years now, on dirt bikes, car engines, etc., and it's the best. Pep Boys stores carry the exact same stuff under the name Castrol Super Clean, for about a dollar more.

I dilute it about 4 to 1 for most of the bike, and use a pump-type, 3 gallon plastic (garden) sprayer, which saves a lot of time (after desert weekends I have four bikes to wash). On the engine and chain I use it straight. It doesn't seem to bother the o-rings.

Another product I'm really happy with is Maxima Chain Wax. The stuff just doesn't attract dirt. My stock chain ('00 WR) has 1,100 miles on it, and it looks like I take it off and clean it after every ride.

Another thing I use a lot, is compressed air. After running the engine, I blow off all the areas that the engine heat doesn't evaporate, especially the chain, to keep rusting to a minimum.

Regards, Gil

  • RodH

Posted July 07, 2000 - 09:02 PM

#14

WR400 Jay,
I know what you mean, Oz has some really nasty red clay that sticks real bad, I didn't want to post anything about pressure washers as you have to be careful where you point them. I used to use one a few years ago, and I am now considering buying another one. But still this truck wash that I am using really works wonders, and if you don't have a pressure washer it's worth trying

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RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>
400 Thumpers Australia</A>
2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

  • WR400_Jay

Posted July 08, 2000 - 12:42 PM

#15

I wish I lived in some of the areas that you guys do. I cringe sometimes when we get to the trails. It's muddy and I can almost here my poor bike saying," Please not this torture". My chain is pretty tired after 350 miles on the bike and my front brakes have been replaced this weekend and now my fork seal is totally gone so I have to replace it.

Kevin I remember what it was like back in Rhode Island and I could get my XR350R pretty nasty. What's it like for you?

------------------
00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro
White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

  • Dave_VanBrocklin

Posted July 08, 2000 - 01:22 PM

#16

I use a pressure washer also, just use common sense when using it, then douse with WD40 to get the water away. Make sure to always run the bike afterwards to get the water burnt off.

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted July 08, 2000 - 04:38 PM

#17

Jay,
It isn't really bad here where I ride. In the fall, the power lines can be tough. I was sinking my bike in deep water but there was no residual muck left on my bike. It is so rocky up here, the mud is minimal. There is an area we ride north of Concord, NH on I-89 that has some very slippery wet spots w/ the obligatory tree roots and rocks thrown in for good measure. Still though, for the most part, it is nothing severe.
While livin & racing MX in MN, there was one track where the (black) mud was so thick and sticky, your bike would weigh at least an extra 50# at the end of the moto!! I have never seen that again anywhere I lived since, but I know that stuff is still out there. While riding MX in Jacksonville, FL, you could hear (not really) the sand destroying your chain and sprockets. I had a new DID chain on my Honda. After 2 hours, the chain was shot. I crashed in a berm and moved the bike out to re-start. The rear tire was locked up and I tried to put the bike in neutral. IT WAS IN NEUTRAL!! The sand was so packed in my chain, the tire was locked up! OUCH!!




 
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