Installing Rekluse!


44 replies to this topic
  • 12yamaha

Posted August 15, 2007 - 04:17 PM

#21

I was wondering if anyone's bike is hard to shift? My bike set up the way it is now is hard to shift and won't start in gear. Is that alright? I am going to change the oil Friday and see if that changes anything.

  • 642MX

Posted August 15, 2007 - 05:20 PM

#22

I was wondering if anyone's bike is hard to shift? My bike set up the way it is now is hard to shift and won't start in gear. Is that alright? I am going to change the oil Friday and see if that changes anything.


When my clutch was brand new the bike wouldn't start easily in gear, but it would start, now it starts fine in gear. And it shifts fine, just let off the gas and shift it. You have to kind of unload the torque off the tranny for it to shift.

Change your oil before you do anything else.

  • Fastest1

Posted August 16, 2007 - 04:39 AM

#23

The installed gap is too tight. It is not releasing enough for the transmission to shift. Rotella works great. Changing the oil is related to how long and hard you ride your bike. If you are only getting to ride every other weekend, then every 2
months is fine if you are not racing. There are so many variables that can be changed. Have you experimented with the tungsten balls? It took me at least 2 years to wear out the stock plates in the Rekiuse and that was after being run in the stock clutch, then in an EFM, then in a Gen1 Rekluse and finally they died in the Gen2 after a Hare Scramble race that I was geared to high for. Check the installed gap say every six months or if it starts to slip. BTW it works great on the track even without the manual override.

  • kenr74

Posted August 16, 2007 - 11:25 AM

#24

I guess I must have been lucky when I installed mine. Went together easy. Was within specs on first try. No problems at all after a couple rides and an hour on the track. If you are having problems shifting it does sound like the gap might be to tight.

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 16, 2007 - 06:01 PM

#25

I will change my oil in the morning and go from there. If the bike still surges sounds like I need to change out one of the .055" for a stock .047". Is that right? I sure like the way it pulls now over when I had the .047" in there. It had a higher stall with the .047 and that is not my riding style here in Tennessee. We have a lot of tight technical trails. Will it hurt the transmission if I kept it this way? How about if I kept it this way for one ride and see if it wore in any? Tell me what everyone thinks?

  • 642MX

Posted August 16, 2007 - 06:04 PM

#26

The installed gap is too tight.


I don't think so. If his gap was too tight, the bike would stall when he puts it in gear.

  • 642MX

Posted August 16, 2007 - 06:07 PM

#27

I will change my oil in the morning and go from there. If the bike still surges sounds like I need to change out one of the .055" for a stock .047". Is that right? I sure like the way it pulls now over when I had the .047" in there. It had a higher stall with the .047 and that is not my riding style here in Tennessee. We have a lot of tight technical trails. Will it hurt the transmission if I kept it this way? How about if I kept it this way for one ride and see if it wore in any? Tell me what everyone thinks?


Keep the .055 plate in if you like the way it accelerates from an idle. Change your oil and go run the crap out of it. The Rekluse has to be broken in somewhat.

  • Fastest1

Posted August 17, 2007 - 09:22 AM

#28

I don't think so. If his gap was too tight, the bike would stall when he puts it in gear.

Not necessarily, if it is just a bit tight it will creep. If it creeps it usually wont release the pressure on the shift dogs to allow a shift. He probably cant find neutral while running either. It might be the oil wont shear fast enough between the plates. Either way a larger gap is needed or a different oil. I think using feeler gauges leaves lots of room for interpretation. I dont know of a better way but I do know 2 people will come up with 2 different gaps. They might be close but not exact. JMO:thumbsup: I would try the Rotella first. It is excellent oil, cheaper and more available than Yamalube and it reduces creep on the Rekluse.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 17, 2007 - 02:30 PM

#29

Explain to me how the Rekluse releases at all between gears at speed unless you pull the lever. Aren't you basically "shifting without the clutch" anyway? I mean, it won't release unless the RPM drops, right?

  • Fastest1

Posted August 17, 2007 - 03:00 PM

#30

Explain to me how the Rekluse releases at all between gears at speed unless you pull the lever. Aren't you basically "shifting without the clutch" anyway? I mean, it won't release unless the RPM drops, right?

You do have to blip upon shifting. I dont run a lever at all. I can not shift at full throttle.

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  • grayracer513

Posted August 17, 2007 - 03:48 PM

#31

That's what I was thinking.

  • 642MX

Posted August 17, 2007 - 07:47 PM

#32

That's what I was thinking.


Ummmm me too. Thats why his gap isn't too tight. He just needs to learn how the tranny should shift 'without using the clutch'.

  • Fastest1

Posted August 18, 2007 - 09:39 AM

#33

Ummmm me too. Thats why his gap isn't too tight. He just needs to learn how the tranny should shift 'without using the clutch'.

Didnt he say he couldnt start it in gear and that it creeped? Too tight. Shifting is a different issue.

  • 642MX

Posted August 18, 2007 - 11:27 AM

#34

Didnt he say he couldnt start it in gear and that it creeped? Too tight. Shifting is a different issue.


It could be on the tight side, but when the Rekluses are new they don't like to be started in gear. Once they break in a little, they act completely different.

Your the one who said the installed gap effects the shifting, not me. :excuseme:

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 18, 2007 - 06:43 PM

#35

The bike won't start in gear and it will stall if I blip the throttle from a dead stop. But the low rpm stall is perfect for the type of woods riding we do in Tennessee. I do wish the bike wouldn't creep, but I hope that will stop after it is broken in. I think it is amazing how changing one .055 plate for a .047 plate makes that much of a difference. The bike has a much higher stall with the .047. I may change it back tomorrow to just see how I like it.

And I agree with whoever said using the feeler gauges to set the gap is pretty difficult. I prefer just changing plates till I get the feel I like. Thanks for the help guys.

  • Fastest1

Posted August 19, 2007 - 06:23 AM

#36

The bike won't start in gear and it will stall if I blip the throttle from a dead stop. But the low rpm stall is perfect for the type of woods riding we do in Tennessee. I do wish the bike wouldn't creep, but I hope that will stop after it is broken in. I think it is amazing how changing one .055 plate for a .047 plate makes that much of a difference. The bike has a much higher stall with the .047. I may change it back tomorrow to just see how I like it.

And I agree with whoever said using the feeler gauges to set the gap is pretty difficult. I prefer just changing plates till I get the feel I like. Thanks for the help guys.

I didnt think it was difficult, I am just sure the amount of drag in the feelers is different for all of us. It shouldnt stall ever! I dont think the TN riding is tighter than some of say Red River. There are many adjustments in the Rekluse, springs, balls, weights of balls, gaps and oils. The stall is the same though the gap changed. The pressure plate has farther to travel due to the larger gap. Try less spring pressure or heavier balls. Turn your idle up just a little bit also. If you started with brand new plates, then yes it will change with break in. However if they were used/originals plates, dont expect any change. These clutches are interesting to adjust, much like jetting. You really dont know unless you try a different setting. Dont accept any drag or stalling. Did you ever change to Rotella? Any difference?

  • rooster wrooster

Posted August 19, 2007 - 07:06 AM

#37

I was having the same problems with stalling when I installed the rekluse a few months ago. After reading through several posts about the rekluse I found a recurring theme that your jetting has to be near perfect to get the best performance out of it. I changed the jetting according to others suggestions but it didn't make much improvement. Then I sent it to zip-ty for their carb modification. That made a big difference. I don't have the pro model so the only external things I have been adjusting is the idle speed and how tight the nut on the adjuster spring is.

I still tweak both of them now and then if I find a situation where it stalls. The last time I rode it only stalled once and that was with lots of 1st gear crawling around. It seems like it stalls the most with very small throttle openings, like blip-off-blip with the throttle. Just like you would do through some extremely tight sections.

I know the last thing you want to do is drop another $100 to get your rekluse working good, but it is an option. You could send your carb to zip-ty for their modification.

  • mrmoto

Posted August 20, 2007 - 11:00 AM

#38

I had the same problem on a 06 YZ450, and with the help of Rekluse, they shipped over (for free) a heavier "inside" spring (sits behind the retaining plate). I was then able to increase the idle speed slightly. The stalling and creeping issues went away... good stuff.

Thanks Rekluse!

  • rooster wrooster

Posted August 20, 2007 - 02:13 PM

#39

Your talking about the 2 inch wave spring right? Thats good to know that they have a heavier one if you need it. My goal is zero stalls....ever. So if I cant get it perfect with the external springs and idle speed then I will try that also.

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 20, 2007 - 06:22 PM

#40

I bought my rekluse kit off of ebay. I had to buy new .055" plates due to the ones in the kit were wore out. I now have three new .055" drive plates but the bike still creeps just a little even after I changed to Rotella. My buddy who just installed a rekluse on his RMZ250 told me I have the gap to tight. When I changed one .055 plate for a stock .047 plate it made a big difference in my stall. One thing I didn't do after I changed the plates was back out the pressure on the perch adjuster. I have it turned all the way in with the light spring trying to get the creep out of it. I will say I think some of the creep has gone away and I have just rode the bike around the yard for about 30 minutes.

Will it hurt anything if I go ride it for a day like it is? It won't bend a shifting fork or anything with it creeping. It is a little hard to shift but I think some of that is me trying to get use to backing off the gas between shifts. Been so hot here lately I haven't felt much like riding.





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