Installing Rekluse!


44 replies to this topic
  • 12yamaha

Posted July 28, 2007 - 05:57 AM

#1

I just wondered if anyone has installed a rekluse z start clutch in their YZ450 and how hard it was. I have an 06 YZ450 and the rekluse is sitting in a box in my garage because I am not sure I could install it. I have put in clutch plates before but just not sure of myself. I also have the thing that goes inline with my clutch cable so I can still use my clutch. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Russ

  • Wiz636

Posted July 28, 2007 - 09:12 AM

#2

Just follow the instructions step by step and you will be okay. When you're done you'll wonder what you were worried about. It's actually pretty easy.

  • crazyal426

Posted July 28, 2007 - 09:15 AM

#3

It is easy. Read the instructions carefully and have two feeler gauges ready to check the clearance. Since you have taken you clutch pressure plate off you should be fine. drain the carb and lay it on its side. it takes some adjusting and fine tuning but it is different type of riding. You'll see. Good luck!!!

  • 12yamaha

Posted July 28, 2007 - 10:18 AM

#4

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Here goes nothing . I will post later how everything goes.

  • 12yamaha

Posted July 28, 2007 - 02:02 PM

#5

Ok. I was installing my rekluse and noticed I don't have any .055" drive plates. Either the guy I bought the kit from didn't include them or they are just worn down to .047". Here is my question. Can I remove 2 mounting shims from under each post of the lower assembly. All they are are .010" washers. There are 9 under there now(.090") so if I remove 2 that will get me down to .070". I thought them it may get my installed gap to where it is suppose to be(.030" to .042"). Any help would be appreciated. Really helpful if I could get it done before my wife gets home around 7 so she doens't ask me how much it cost.

  • 642MX

Posted July 28, 2007 - 04:32 PM

#6

I'd wait and get the correct plates from Rekluse. Having .055" and .047" plates come in handy when fine tuning the installed gap.

  • rooster wrooster

Posted July 29, 2007 - 05:32 AM

#7

Call, don't email, Rekluse. 208 426 0659. They are very helpful and can answer all of your questions. If you keep the Rekluse you will need the .055 plates eventually anyway to keep the gap in spec. I'm sure you have the installation instructions, but in case you don't you can go here and download them, they also have all the required tools and parts that you will be using, http://www.rekluse.com/manuals.shtml

  • 12yamaha

Posted July 29, 2007 - 07:55 AM

#8

I will call and order some .055 plates tomorrow. How many should I order? And how often do you have to check and adjust these plates. Thanks for the help guys.

  • 642MX

Posted July 29, 2007 - 02:58 PM

#9

I will call and order some .055 plates tomorrow. How many should I order? And how often do you have to check and adjust these plates. Thanks for the help guys.


I'd get 6 plates. I check my installed gap every 6 or 8 rides. Normally it doesn't move, but I check it anyway. :thumbsup:

  • 12yamaha

Posted July 29, 2007 - 09:52 PM

#10

Thanks for the info 642mx. What type of riding do you do? I have heard the rekluse is the stuff in the woods but not as much fun on the track. I do alot of both and just wondered what you thought.

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  • 642MX

Posted July 30, 2007 - 04:28 AM

#11

Thanks for the info 642mx. What type of riding do you do? I have heard the rekluse is the stuff in the woods but not as much fun on the track. I do alot of both and just wondered what you thought.



I ride a 50/50 mix of woods and MX. I think the Rekluse works very well for both. My wife and I both have them and we both love them. :thumbsup:

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 12, 2007 - 07:59 PM

#12

Finally installed my rekluse clutch today. Now I have some more questions. First I installed it just like the instructions said and the gap was between .74 and .94mm. When I fired up the bike, put the bike in first and bike wanted to slightly pull. No matter how I adjusted the perch adjuster it still pulled. So I went back and replaced one of the .055" drive plates with one of the stock .047" drive plates. Now it doesn't learch any more but it has a higher stall. I liked it better when it crept when in gear. That suits my trail riding style.

Here is my question? Which way is better for the life of the clutches? Have the bike creap a little when I put it in gear or have a little higher stall which sounds like the clutches are slipping a little more to me? I preferably like it better when the bike had little or no stall. Thanks guys.

  • ButchWR250F

Posted August 12, 2007 - 08:15 PM

#13

Finally installed my rekluse clutch today. Now I have some more questions. First I installed it just like the instructions said and the gap was between .74 and .94mm. When I fired up the bike, put the bike in first and bike wanted to slightly pull. No matter how I adjusted the perch adjuster it still pulled. So I went back and replaced one of the .055" drive plates with one of the stock .047" drive plates. Now it doesn't learch any more but it has a higher stall. I liked it better when it crept when in gear. That suits my trail riding style.

Here is my question? Which way is better for the life of the clutches? Have the bike creap a little when I put it in gear or have a little higher stall which sounds like the clutches are slipping a little more to me? I preferably like it better when the bike had little or no stall. Thanks guys.


The creep is a byproduct of the stock Yamaha clutch plates and the oil in the clutch. For some reason the clutch plates are really sticky and the installed gap is close enough that it creeps just a little. It's not really dragging, it's just the oil film in between the clutch plates. If you can live with it, put it back the way it was when you first put it together & enjoy.

Other Rekluse users have had good luck experimenting with different oils. I'm currently using Shell Rotella diesel truck oil in my 250F. It eliminated the creep, and I can find neutral when the bike is stopped. With the stock Yamalube, it was creepy, and no neutral when the bike is standing still & the engine is running. You might just give the Rotella a try. Plus it's really cheap compared to most other oils & you can get it at Wal-Mart. By the way, this IS recommended by Rekluse.

In the YZ250F, you can use Honda CRF250R friction plates (just the frictions, use stock Yamaha steels). They are supposed to stop the creepyness, and you can use any oil with them. On the 450, I don't know if you can use the CRF 450 plates. Call Rekluse & ask them. If it's even possible they have probably tried it.

Once you get it dialed in, go ride the ugliest terrain you can find. You'll feel like a hero. I love mine, and every one of my bikes has one in it.

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 12, 2007 - 09:06 PM

#14

So you think I should go back to the .055" drive plate. I liked the way it felt it just wanted to creep when I stopped. Also when the bike was on the stand and I put the bike in first and applied the rear brake the bike would bog slightly. Is this normal. I am currently using Amsoil but if you think Rotella would fix the problem I will give it a try. Thanks for the help.

  • 642MX

Posted August 13, 2007 - 04:21 AM

#15

So you think I should go back to the .055" drive plate. I liked the way it felt it just wanted to creep when I stopped. Also when the bike was on the stand and I put the bike in first and applied the rear brake the bike would bog slightly. Is this normal. I am currently using Amsoil but if you think Rotella would fix the problem I will give it a try. Thanks for the help.


Get rid of the Amsoil. Use only Shell Rotella 15W40.

The installed gap should be set at the lowest spec. Too large of an installed gap will cause premature clutch wear. Remember the installed gap controls the stall speed, and the perch adjuster (or external adjuster) controls the slip.

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 13, 2007 - 05:03 AM

#16

Sounds like I need to go back to the .055" drive plate. I will do that and go get some Rotella. How often do you change your oil. I don't change my oil but about every 3 months with Amsoil. Is that Rotella T or Rotella T synthetic?

  • ButchWR250F

Posted August 13, 2007 - 04:47 PM

#17

Sounds like I need to go back to the .055" drive plate. I will do that and go get some Rotella. How often do you change your oil. I don't change my oil but about every 3 months with Amsoil. Is that Rotella T or Rotella T synthetic?


In my instructions for my WR250F it didn't say to use the Synthetic Rotella T, so I just used the regular stuff. It works great. Other people have also had great luck with the Rotella T synthetic.
Change it often. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

Definitely put the .055 drive plate back in. You don't want it slipping, and as 642MX stated, you want it to be at the lower end of the spec.

  • 642MX

Posted August 13, 2007 - 05:59 PM

#18

Sounds like I need to go back to the .055" drive plate. I will do that and go get some Rotella. How often do you change your oil. I don't change my oil but about every 3 months with Amsoil. Is that Rotella T or Rotella T synthetic?


I use the dino Rotella. And I change it EVERY RIDE! Plus I use 2twocool oil additive (from the TT store).

  • 12yamaha

Posted August 13, 2007 - 08:00 PM

#19

I changed the drive plate back to the .055" and I like the feel of it much better. It still wants to creep a little but I think I can mess with the perch adjuster to fix that. I am going to use the soft spring for trail riding and the stiff spring for mx riding in my perch adjuster. Think that will work? I like a little more stall on the mx track.
I also went and bought some Rotella T today. Didn't buy the synthetic. I like the synthetic because it doesn't break down as easy as conventional oils. Thanks everyone for the help.

  • 642MX

Posted August 14, 2007 - 04:20 AM

#20

I am going to use the soft spring for trail riding and the stiff spring for mx riding in my perch adjuster. Think that will work? I like a little more stall on the mx track.


You'll have to play around with it and see what fits your style. I use the soft spring for both woods and MX. The hard spring raises the engaugement about 500 RPM's over the soft spring.





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