Sherco enduros are often not listed in some accessory/parts catalogs.
Here's the beginning of a parts cross-reference thread.
Anyone have more listings for various wear-items?

• Sprockets
  
• Oil Filters
  
• Air Filters
  
• Wheel Bearings/Bushing Kits
  
• Brake Discs

SHERCO 450/510 ENDURO (2004-2007):

Front Brake Pads
94x37.3x7.5mm

• EBC - FA181TT (standard) (4.6mb PDF Catalog)
  
• EBC - FA181HH (HH)
  
• EBC- FA181R ®
  
• EBC- MXS181 (MXS)
  
• DUNLOPAD - DP617 (DP Brakes search result)
  
• FERODO - FDB2018
  
• SBS - 671
  
• VESRAH - VD-947

Rear Brake Pads
66.9x36.1x10.75mm

• EBC - FA367 (standard)
  
• EBC - FA367R ®
  
• EBC - MXS367 (MXS)
  
• EBC - GFA267HH (GFA) - HH compound w/heat dissipation shim for enduros
  
• DUNLOPAD - DP940
  
• FERODO - FDB2162
  
• SBS - 790
  
• VESRAH - VD-271

Rear Sprockets

(2006-2007 Husqvarna TC450 and 2002-2006 GasGas EC rear sprockets fit Sherco enduros according to cross-references from Renthal and other sites CHECK THE PART NUMBERS FIRST !!! Front sprockets are not interchangeable)

Front Sprockets

• AFAM - 43400 (14t) (listed under Bultaco in AFAM catalog!)

Air Filter

• NoToil 130-30 (PDF catalog)
  
• TwinAir 156015 (PDF catalog)

We use GAS GAS frontsprocket with no problem at all.:thumbsup:

I am running a 13 teeth Renthal 360A on my testbike. 5.1i 2007 OEM 14 teeth

I am riding 5.1i -07 and one of my customers testing my other testbike TE450 -07

Here is some pics

http://teamtrestaden...edigerad-2.html


http://teamtrestaden...edigerad-2.html

//Klas :ride:

Gidday fellas,

I have replaced every bearing and seal in the rear end through SKF direct - cheap too! Not like my old Honda bearings!

SKF HK1816 does most of them and at $5.00 NZ each they are cheap. Seals were about $2.00

:ride:

When i comes to the suspension bearings, 07- have another type of bearings and bushings.

HK1816 with needlecage can not take the shockloads. Use a HK or DL type with no cage (full with needles)
One of few problems on Sherco.

07- have more ridgid bushings.

No problem with uppdgrading your older bikes.:thumbsup:

Klas

Cool advice Klas - I just replaced them with the factory parts numbers - I will look for a DL type in the future.

Thanks for the tip...

Oh, and did you mean HN instead of HK?

Looks like Suzuki DR650 valve guide seals are a match for the Sherco items too....

anybody have a match for oil filters

Gidday mate,

This is a little bit controversial as you can't beat the factory jobber, but the KTM long filter is the same diameter and fits perfectly . but it's a little bit short. I used a 20mm x 10mm spring to push it in place and it worked fine.

I can't find any other filters that come close.

This was an excellent idea cawooddog... and should prove to be a valuable resource.

Having just got my '07 5.1 enduro a few days ago, I don't have any cross-reference information, but I can offer a bit of info on the fitting of Acerbis handguards to the stock, '07 black "mystery brand" taper bars... at least from my perspective.

There has been a bit of debate as to what fits (which may be because Sherco is using different bar vendors in the same model year?), so I ordered Acerbis Multi-concept enduro hand guards... and both versions of Acerbis "swivel mount" inner mounts. One set for Pro Taper and one set for Magura.
http://us.st11.yimg....o_1958_25922220
I couldn't find a "happy place" for the Pro Taper mounts anywhere on the bar. The ones for Magura bars fit the best... after I cut 3/8" off the ends of the bars to align everything properly.







A hassle I know, and I'm sure other brands and or variations might fit even better, but if you choose to go this route, this combination works for sure.

Aside from service parts... it would be interesting to see what others have come up with as far as your typical accessory bits and pieces that are working out well.

Thanks,
C

kiwijohn said:

Actually, they look like this:

"Delta Link" and Pullrod("Dogbone") Bearings (Link-to-swingarm, Link-to-pullrod, Pullrod-to-frame-tabs) - there are a total of six of these, two per pivot point.

• Bearing:
  [INDENT]
  • SKF HK1816 NBS
  
  [/INDENT]
  
• Seal:
  
• TTO B8217
  [INDENT]
  • Dimensions: TC 22 28 4
  [/INDENT]
  (These are listed in order: ID, OD, Thickness)

Lower Shock Bearing (pressed into Delta Link)

• Bearing:
  [INDENT]
  • HK2012 SL
  
  [/INDENT]
  
• Seal:
  
• TTO B673
  [INDENT]
  • Dimensions: VCW 20 26 4
  [/INDENT]
  (These are listed in order: ID, OD, Thickness)

Swingarm Bearings

• Bearing:
  [INDENT]
  • SKF HK2216 ZAB+
  
  [/INDENT]
  
• Seal:
  
• TTO C5157
  [INDENT]
  • Dimensions: VCW 28 35 4
  [/INDENT]
  (These are listed in order: ID, OD, Thickness)

These have been read right off of the very bearings themselves, as shipped from Sherco USA as I ordered them from the numbers from the factory parts book. I obviously won't be ordering them from the OEM again with these numbers...nor should you!


Hope this helps. They are of very high quality but I have yet to encounter a seal that can keep the Colorado silt-mud out of any bearing that is exposed to constant pummeling from the front wheel...the phenomenon crosses all brands with linkage, period.

Creeper...Great pics of your setup...just curious...what is the total bar length after removing 3/8 inches off each end? (my 5.1i hasn't arrived yet...trying to order setup parts before it comes!)... Thillsam - thanks for the bearing specs!

cawooddog said:

I have no idea. :excuseme:

But I can run out to the shop and take a quick ballpark measurement.............................................

And we're back! The length, as measured at the narrowest point, is 30 5/8". Which would make sense for a typical 31 1/2" bar starting point if you allow 1/8" for the combined cut-off material loss.

If you need any close-ups or inner mount measurements let me know.

If anyone is interested, the grips are Renthal Kevlar and the mirrors are Mirrycle mountain bike mirrors with just the end stalk in use.

Chris

kiwijohn said:

How did you discover this? Have you needed to do valve guides already?

Yeah buddy, valves, guides and a basic head reconditon (re-seat - regrind)

Piston and barrel are still awesome but am putting in new rings while it's apart.

Guess that comes from buying an ex-demo model.... sigh....:cry:

Biggest hassle has been getting parts as our local dealer gave up the ghost on Sherco and we've only just (2 weeks ago) had a new guy sign up as distributor. Parts are ordered now but could be another month if we catch the Euro's on summer holidays?!

Been off the bike for 2 months now trying to get sorted.... sigh.

Hi Sherco people.........It has been discussed before that the standard battery is.......shall we say lacking. Mine gave up the ghost, half-heartedly there one day, gone the next. Thillsam pointed out that a Yuasa YT7B-BS fits perfectly.
The problem is if you look for one by name you could be looking at over $100...ouch.So here's what you might try.

As you see it comes in a Suzuki box, it's the real thing and it's FAR cheaper.I checked on the internet and a lot of site advertise prices as low as $60......but they are not the real thing.I needed mine now and payed $76.78 in a store, if your not in a rush you'll do better.
Suzuki part #33610-29F20........it's for a DRZ 400 (I believe).
Oh, and boy it cranks the motor over far faster..........g.

Anybody know if the fork seals cross over to something else?

Forks are 02 wrf 426 .same oil and dust seals and fork springs.

are these gel cel batteries? because they are the best of the lot with very high CCA figures? not that the sherco struggles anyway...

i know that the YTZ7S is a VERY powerful battery on the huseys and katooms. i believe the BS is to do with the posts being t'other way round...

also, i have a knocked out cam follower bearing. i tried to fit one from the earlier huseys but they are 7.6mm or so and not the 8.0mm required for a sherco. has anyone cross referenced a pin and F bearing for one yet?

the starter motor will be easy to get from specialist sites in the states IF IF it ever packs up.

one thing i would like to know is, what else do the two master cylinders fit because i like forged apico levers and they have saved me a fortune over the years!

Taffy said:

Hi Taffy.........my stock battery was rather weak from the getgo and one day just said no more, it was only about three months old (I had a good quality charger on it, still weak). I stuck the YT7 BS in there and the difference was night and day.................the motor spun at a far higher speed, like twice as fast.An all together better set-up. The YT7BS is a gel mat type. I feel much better out in the boonies with the new battery...........g.

finni1,

Your post on 10/4/07 mentions the YT7B-BS battery.
Today's post mentions the YTZ7S battery.

I'm confused