Fastline Front Brakeline Installation Problem



20 replies to this topic
  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 19, 2000 - 06:19 AM

#1

I just installed a Fastline brakeline onto my 99WR 400 and ran into the following problem. The brakeline is designed for the WR and uses the stock routing.

When attaching the bajo fitting to the caliper I had interferenced between a feature on the caliper just above the attaching bolt and the extended crimp shank on the banjo fitting. When you torqued down the banjo fitting it look like it was ok but would leak when pressurized with brake fluid.

Solution: using my moto tool with a mini cutting wheel I releaved the feature on the brake caliper to allow the banjo fitting to seat properly when torqued down. Problem solved. I did take a while to see specifically what the problem was and I was pissed that I had to grind a feature on my caliper but in the end my brake line is on and I just saved some weight, ya maby 0.01oz. the amount of material removed from the caliper to allow clearence was very minor.

Info for those of you who may run into the leaky banjo fitting at the front caliper when installing new breaklines.

Clark

  • WR400_Jay

Posted May 19, 2000 - 05:40 PM

#2

Hey Clark....How's the stopping power now? I noticed a huge difference changing the line and fluid. I'm going to check out that feature on my bike tomorrow and see how close mine is to the caliper.

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00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro
White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

  • Mike

Posted May 19, 2000 - 06:11 PM

#3

Just got off a ride with the Fast line installed. WR routing, not CR. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! :) Thought I could pull off the Mission Impossible 2 scene. Touching at first, but I love it. Had my dealer install it so don't know if they had any problems as mentioned, but I love it. I'll ask my dealer if he had any prob's. Got to go with this set up guys.

Mike

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98WR White Bros E Series stock head pipe, IMS Tank/seat Pro Tapers Works Connection guards. Stock timing

  • RodH

Posted May 19, 2000 - 11:21 PM

#4

I had the same problem, so I used 2 copper washers to make th line clear the calliper, that seemed to work ok.



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RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>
400 Thumpers Australia</A>
2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 20, 2000 - 06:14 AM

#5

RodH:

I thought of using two sealing washers but did not like the prospect of additional sealing surfaces, so went with the releaf route to solve the interference problem. Once I uncovered what the problem was this was a clean and easy fix.

Clark

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted May 20, 2000 - 06:27 AM

#6

Clark,
There was some mention of the XR 400 braided line working on our WR's. This was if the CR routing was used. Any knowledge on this, and is it worth considering going this route? Pros/cons??

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted May 24, 2000 - 11:28 AM

#7

I brought this back up Clark to get your opinion. I am going the steel line way. My neighbors KTM has a togggle switch of a brake. I looked last time we rode and saw it was braided steel. While rolling my bike off the trailer, I grabbed a whole lot of front brake, the bike was getting away from me. The lever went all the way to the grip!! I am changing to the steel line but honor your opinion on the CR route w/ the XR brake line or just use the WR application and OEM routing.

  • RodH

Posted May 24, 2000 - 12:38 PM

#8

I bought the WR line and used the standard routing. The idea of this mod is to get a better firmer feel out of the front brake, and the WR line sure does achieve this, at least it fits good and is well protected fitting it the WR way. Why go the CR way ? to be different I guess ?

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RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>
400 Thumpers Australia</A>
2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 24, 2000 - 06:17 PM

#9

I'm running the AMP 280mm rotor and the Fastling brake line with standard WR routing. It works good but I want killer brakes since I ride a lot of street and need to stop quick. I will install the Dunlopad agressive brake pads to try and achieve even better Front brake performance.

My stock brake line worked well, I bleed it alot and it was always very firm I would say hard a one or two finger job, remember I have a larger rotor. On my bike the Fastline set up is marginally better. I use the Motul 600C fluid.

Clark

  • MotoGreg

Posted May 24, 2000 - 07:10 PM

#10

I don't know about Dunlopad brake pads for dirtbikes but for street bikes they are the worst. The pad lining chunks apart and falls out. They were rated worst in a big brake pad comparison. Does EBC make the gold colored "HH" pads for dirtbikes? If so, I'd try those, they are the best for street bikes. HH refers to the friction coefficient which is really good, most are D or E. There are two letters in the ratings and I can't remember if it's for hot and cold or wet and dry...

------------------
'99 WR400
'92 GSXR 7/11
Visit my photo album AT YOUR OWN RISK!! My photo album
Anyone here a sportbike fan also? Then visit us here at www.insanespeed.com

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted May 25, 2000 - 01:15 AM

#11

A while back, DirtBike rag did a comparison on brake pads. BRAKING brake pads outperformed the others.

They claim their new pad, the CM44 (ceramic/metal 44), outperforms Honda pads. That is a pretty ballsy claim. Wonder if it is true??

  • MotoGreg

Posted May 25, 2000 - 04:29 PM

#12

If it's a metallic pad then that is what you want. The organic pads have no friction so they don't stop, they retain heat and warp the rotor, and they make a ton of brake dust. Factory pads are metallic, it just depends how much percentage of materials the pad has, with a really metallic pad you get some brake noise but that's a small price to pay for being able to stop hard.

------------------
'99 WR400
'92 GSXR 7/11
Visit my photo album AT YOUR OWN RISK!! My photo album
Anyone here a sportbike fan also? Then visit us here at www.insanespeed.com

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 25, 2000 - 06:03 PM

#13

Thanks for providing some insight on the brake pads. I'm going fot the most agressive bad ass super metalic pads I can find.

And of course I will post my findings

Clark

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted May 26, 2000 - 06:49 AM

#14

Clark - You might want to try Galfer Green pads. I've had outstanding luck with them in the dry. Overall feel and stoppie power is WAY up. They also seem to be pretty popular with the guys in the Midwest running YZ4s in road races. I haven't had the opportunity to use them in muddy conditions so I'm not sure how they'll hold up.

Rich

  • Mike

Posted May 26, 2000 - 03:08 PM

#15

Clark,

Appreciate all the money you spend on everything and test for all of us. Maybe we should start donating to the Clark fund. Or do you get all this stuff free? :) I have learned more from all of your testing then any mag could give us. thx

Mike

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 26, 2000 - 05:34 PM

#16

I sell everthing I do not keep and NEVER pay retail for anything. Yes in the end I do lose a few $ but I get to test a lot of neet stuff and hone in on what works for me. Most of the stuff that dosen't suit my needs is perfect for someone else. Through this forum I have had good success for my and others needs.

Clark

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted May 26, 2000 - 05:34 PM

#17

I concur wholeheartedly with Mike, Clark. Thanks for all your help!!! :)

Kevin


[This message has been edited by Kevin in New Hampshire (edited 05-26-2000).]

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 26, 2000 - 05:40 PM

#18

Rich

Today just purchased a set of EBC green pads which are supposed to be supper grippy but not long on life. Next I will try to find a set of Galfers. Thanks for the input.

Clark

  • Mike_S

Posted May 29, 2000 - 07:46 PM

#19

Check out the picture of Randy Hawkins. Dirt rider June 00 page 18. He has the brake line we need. I like the idea he is winning on a wr and not a yz like zip-ty. Makes me look closer at what he's using. :)

  • jj

Posted May 30, 2000 - 08:45 AM

#20

Funny you should say that Mike! I was drooling through my "personal" copy of Tucker Rocky <grin> and a saw this;
AM-PRO Front Brake Line
-Developed by Randy Hawkins
-Stainless Steel hoses increases you braking power
-All YZ's 98-2000 and WR400 98-2000
-Shorter than stock
-Steel braided encased in clear plastic sleeves to prevent abrasion against bike parts

All YZ's 98-99 with mount 34-0365 $122.95
All YZ's 98-99 w/o mount 34-0366 $104.95
WR400's with mount 34-0373 $122.95
Mount Only 34-0367 $19.95

Does anyone know anything about this? Is it any better than the Fastline stuff?

They also have AM-PRO front oversized disk brakes listed on the same page $224.95 with bracket.

I also saw that Chaparral has YZ 400 1999 Fastline front brake in black listed, the description reads;
1. "Slightly softer lever feel than standard Fastline brake line. More frim than OEM."
2. "This is a race style line, routed similar to Honda and Suzuki."
Interestly enough the blue brakeline is not described as "softer", but IS routed silimar to Honda and Suzuki.
The WR 400 listings are seperate and only in blue. They evidently are not "softer" and do not have "special" routing.
The prices dont seems too bad at all, front $45.99 and rear $40.99.

Thought you guys might be interested...

JJ




 
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