Fork Seals...Do yours give you major headaches?



7 replies to this topic
  • WR400_Jay

Posted May 11, 2000 - 04:31 PM

#1

Ok Guys I have about 170 miles on my 00'WR400. I wash her, change her oil every other ride, took her all apart and greased everything and what does she do...she rewards me by leaking oil all over my front wheel and trailer :) . I tried MCARP's trick with the wrap around velcro seal protectors and it seemed to help but after a ride in the spring mud it let loose.

Has anyone tried to retrofit some conventional fork boots to an inverted set of forks? Is there something else I can do? I'm tired of "Forkin" around Help!!!!!!

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00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro
White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

  • Henry

Posted May 11, 2000 - 05:27 PM

#2

hi Jay
you may want to try the fork seal maintenance which is suggested by Neal.
it worked very well on my fork!!
i rode hard after fixing and it proof to be very good ,even i tried to bottom my fork, my fork still shine clear without any trace of fork oil.
Regards :)

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted May 11, 2000 - 06:40 PM

#3

Ive changed mine about 7 or 8 times now in a little over a year. Im getting pretty good it it now. (dont even have to use the service manual :))
Boy, that fork seal driver sure has paid itself off!

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Darin from Missouri WR400F Pro-Tapers, Applied TC, Clarke 3.3, YZ seat, Scotts Shark Fin, FMF PC IV S.A., One Industries Hannah Retro Kit, WER Steering Dampner,Pacemaker Computer, Andrews Powder Coating-painted gloss black

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 11, 2000 - 07:59 PM

#4

I'v never changed a fork seal in 14 months, take that back the seals were changed when I had my forks resprung and revalved and again when I had the syspension shortened. But I have never had a leaky fork seal. I do not ride in MUD and maybe this is the problem??

Anyway in the few years I'v been riding when I did have fork seal problems it always turned out to be my fault for not getting the forks properly aligned when I put the front back together after changing a F tire. If the forks are not parallel to each other and the axel 90deg to both you are going to cause premature fork seal failure.

I now always torque the axel nut clamp down the axel pinch bolts closest to the brake, lossen the other axel pinch clamp, stuff the tip of a screw driver in the slot in the pinch clamp on the rt fork, push the forks up and down, hold the front tire off the ground spin it fast and rapidly clamp on the fornt brake stopping the wheel quickly, and then repeat the spinn, brake fast routine. The forks and axel should now be in proper alignment, remove the screw driver and torque the remaing two rt. side axel pinch bolts.

Since I started using this procedure 15yrs ago I'v never had a leaky fornt fork seal--Knock on wood.

Hope this helps someone

Clark

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  • mcarp

Posted May 11, 2000 - 10:11 PM

#5

Jay my bud w/ the 426 has leaking fork seals as well (both at the same time). He even did the vaseline trick too. Just after he noticed it, we bled his forks and air 'o plenty came out. Maybe the extra air pressure put just enough pressure to blow??? He only bled them twice in 300 miles, I did it after every ride right away.

Mine have held out fine for over 270 miles so far with the NOJ neoprene protectors (guys we ride in the same nasty Ohio mud) and constant presure bleeding. I did align my wheel properly before riding at all and after changing the front tire, maybe that helped. Always seem to have good luck with forks, knock on wood.

Maybe the new low stiction design is problematic if things are a tad off or if pressure builds up or both????? :)

Good luck getting this fixed by the weekend!

  • WR400_Jay

Posted May 12, 2000 - 12:46 AM

#6

Hey Mike it's funny that we ride through the same ares of Ohio and your buddy w/the 426 has the same problem. I wonder if all that nasty mud with the coal dust, sulfur and quartz just eats them alive out at Wayne National Forest. I chewed up two sets of seals last year on my YZ250.

I have bleed the forks anytime I do oil changes and whenever I think of it. The NOJ protectors have helped from what I can see.

Clark, I've never heard of aligning the fork tubes that way but it sounds like it works pretty well. I'm going to fix the seal and try your method of alignment. Thanks for the info.

Anyone try and retrofit fork boots to inverted forks? :) My 85' XR350R never leaked and I would submerge it in motor deep mud and slop back at home in Rhode Island. I wish I never sold that bike.

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00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro
White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

  • Dougie

Posted May 12, 2000 - 03:41 AM

#7

What is the best way to get those dust seals loose. I was thinking a screwdriver but it looks like it would damage it.

Come to think of it, what is the best way to get them back on if you don't have a driver?

Mine are leaving "mud" rings around the lower forks. The dirt is mixing with the oil and leaving the rings. It hasn't completely let loose with oil yet but it looks like it is in the beginning stages. I am getting the seals replaced but would like to try the mntc by Neal if I experience the problem again.

Come to think of something else. Does anyone feel ambitious enough to post directions on changing out fork oil? I sure would like to save about $80 by doing it myself. I don't like the looks of the manuals intructions and diagrams which really don't tell you how to change it out anyway.

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Dougie, '99 WR400
Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted May 12, 2000 - 08:43 AM

#8

Popping off the dust seal is no big deal. Just use a screwdriver as you mentioned (it wont hurt it) and you can press it back on by hand. You only need the fork seal driver for the outer tube bushing and the fork seal itself.
Dougie, If noone else feels "ambitious" enough I will tell you how I change my fluid when I have more time.

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Darin from Missouri WR400F Pro-Tapers, Applied TC, Clarke 3.3, YZ seat, Scotts Shark Fin, FMF PC IV S.A., One Industries Hannah Retro Kit, WER Steering Dampner,Pacemaker Computer, Andrews Powder Coating-painted gloss black

[This message has been edited by milkman2544 (edited 05-12-2000).]




 
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