Help on Front Fork Adjustments
Posted May 04, 2000 - 05:37 AM
How does one calculate the amount of oil, the weight of the oil and the number of outward clicks of the dampening screw(I think it is called a dampening screw).
Posted May 04, 2000 - 06:32 AM
Posted May 04, 2000 - 07:06 AM
Posted May 04, 2000 - 08:51 AM
Posted May 04, 2000 - 03:40 PM
I'm not a suspension specialist at all and I still am trying to understand the relation ship between rebound and compression. But I would set your rebound to the middle of your range. Then find the middle of your range on the compression (bottom of forks) and turn them in a few more clicks. Then you can adjust them until the point you are not bottoming. Trial and error on that part.
Dougie, '99 WR400
Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.
Posted May 04, 2000 - 05:29 PM
On the bottom of your front forks you will find a small black rubber insert. Pry it out with a small screwdriver. In there you will find your compression screw. If you want to help resist the bottoming effect turn the screw clockwise. This will increase the compression dampining force. Turned all the way in you should be at 20 clicks. From there you can turn it out a couple of clicks at a time to soften the forks until you get to the point where you are happy.
On the top of your forks which you already found is the rebound screw. By turning it clockwise you will increase the rebound dampening force. This screw turned all the way in is also at 20 clicks. I would go with Dougie's advice and set it about 1/2 way out and go from there.
Good luck and happy riding!!
Posted May 04, 2000 - 07:19 PM
'92 GSXR 7/11
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Posted May 05, 2000 - 06:40 PM
You can also try raising the oil level height 5 mm at a time. The oil has a big impact on bottoming control. If you turn the compression clickers too far in (adding compresion) the bike will start to get harsh on the small stuff. I dont know what you weigh, but im 6'2, 200 and had to go heavier on springs front and rear, along with a revalve. that is the caddilac of suspension adjustments, but unfortunately it comes with a caddilac price. So the cheap way would be first trying oil height and clicker adjustments and then springs ( about 80 dollars.)
as far as rebound you know if its correct by the movement. as said above if you get sprung back up, rebound is too light, but on the other hand if it kicks side to side, especially in the rear, rebound is too slow.
I'm not an expert by any means, by I have had several bikes and have been through this process several times. I hope this info helps.
Posted May 05, 2000 - 08:05 PM
Darin from Missouri WR400F Pro-Tapers, Applied TC, Clarke 3.3, YZ seat, Scotts Shark Fin, FMF PC IV S.A., One Industries Hannah Retro Kit, WER Steering Dampner,Pacemaker Computer, Andrews Powder Coating-painted gloss black