Front numberplate/Finned aluminum thingy

8 replies to this topic
  • Moto-Mike

Posted April 26, 2000 - 08:16 AM


I removed my Odometer, tail light and headlight assemblies... and will just be using the headlight shell unless someone knows of a good numberplate. What do they use for mounting hardware? Price?
Is that finned aluminum thingy on the left side of the frame opposite the 'black box' the rectifier? If so - can I remove that as well? Thanks

2000 Yamaha WR400F
1988 Honda NT650 Hawk
1977 Suzuki RM250B
1974 Honda XR75K1

  • Bill

Posted April 26, 2000 - 08:45 AM


You can order an aftermarket number plate for a YZF ($19.00)and it bolts right up with the exception of the upper mount. I used some plummers tape (metal strip with holes in it) and bent it at a appx.45 degree angle, rounded the corners and painted it black. Works great and no failure so far. The YZF triple clamp has this mount in the center, WR's don't. Also the pins that hold the bottom of the number plate had to be reduced in diameter. I closed the chuck to my cordless drill to the size needed and used it like a hand held lathe. This also worked great and the pegs are nice and round like it was factory done.

You should also order the YZF hub spacer and seal. This will allow you to take of the odometer drive to reduce unsprung weight.


86TT225, 98CR80, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted April 26, 2000 - 05:20 PM



I have Pro-Tapers with the applied triple clamp on my 99 WR and I also removed my Lights and odometer and I use the Acerbis vented number plate and it mounts up perfect.

T Byrd

  • Harry_in_Oz

Posted April 27, 2000 - 12:32 AM


The thingy you refer to would be a voltage regulator since the system is AC. The TPS would require a relatively constant voltage to work properly so I suggest that you leave it on.

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  • Bruce_in_Phoenix

Posted April 30, 2000 - 09:08 PM


If you mount a YZ number plate drill out the cheezy plastic pins that will break the first time you hit a branch or leaf and insert the screws that mount the lower stock bracket through the drilled out holes with a very long extension and it will work beautifully without even using the center mounting hole. Just wrap that strap that comes with the YZ plate around the handlebars and ride. Also remove all the mounts for the stocker. That means taking out the top triple clamp bolts.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted May 01, 2000 - 02:03 PM


hi there...

hey harry, .."The thingy you refer to would be a voltage regulator since the system is AC. "

The system is A.C. ?? Call me ignorant, but Alternating Current on a internal combustion motor? Why would there be a need for negative voltages? I've been riding street for a bunch of years and the WR is my first dirt ride (that I want to mention) and I have never heard of Alternating Current in any manuals. They always talk Direct Current or D.C. The only AC I've head of is found on Gold Wings.. ala... Air Conditioning. :) Is it possible you've confused a voltage rectifier (changes A.C. to D.C. ) with a voltage regulator (limits amplitude of voltage)

call me confuzzed...


  • Heywood

Posted May 01, 2000 - 03:42 PM


Hey Neil:

The electric power on the WR comes from the rotation of the magnets around the stator windings. This develops an AC voltage. Its frequency and voltage depend on how fast it is spinning and the load it sees.

On the WR all they are doing with this voltage is running light bulbs. The lightbulbs don't care if they get AC or DC power.

To simplify the system, they didn't bother to rectify the AC, but they do need to regulate it to keep the bulbs from brightening (and maybe failing) and dimming as the motor is revved.

On most bikes there is other stuff there that needs DC. That's why this AC stuff is not as common.

  • Clark_Mason

Posted May 01, 2000 - 06:23 PM


I'v seen a number of dirt bikes which use both AC and DC on the same machine. Often they will use a AC regulator to regualate the AC voltage and drive the headlight of this and provide a second diode block DC regulator to charge a battery and run every thing else (tail light, brake light, horn, turn signals, etc.) Examples Husaberg in 96-98. In this configuration the headlight only operates when the engine is running and cuts way down on battery drain while still allowing the tail light to run off the battery to meet state and local regulations.


[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 05-01-2000).]

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted May 02, 2000 - 06:34 AM


wellll.. amn.

ya learn something every day. I understand the AC from the spinning rotor :) It's the couple decades of street riding that I am basing my experience on.. and well, I had always dealt with DC on my street beasts.

I appreciate the help. This board has been great. Since my purchase less than a month ago, I have put the 13 tooth sprocket on the front (mountain/foothill riding) and re-jetted for altitude and I would not have done either of those without this place's input.

thanks agan.



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