XR650L - Frame oil drain bolt torque...

13 replies to this topic
  • Sum Ting Wong

Posted July 08, 2007 - 11:06 AM


I'm doing an oil change on my 07 L, and I kind of ran into this issue with the first oil change. This is the second oil change. I read in the manual that the torque for the crankcase is 18 lbs/ft, and the frame tube bolt (10mm) is 29 lbs/ft (which seemed like a lot to me).

So I finish the oil change, and I'm torquing the frame tube bolt, but it keeps spinning. It has resistance, like it's getting a little tighter, but not much. Since the bolt rested firmly on the washer, I've gotten several cranks on it with the torque wrench, but it does not feel like it's going to get there.

I'm using the stock drain bolt.

Anyone have a similar issue?

>>> Update <<<

I removed the bolt. Here is a pic. It's stretched at the top, but not stripped. Thoughts (other than too much torque, which was less than specified)?

Posted Image

  • frog13

Posted July 08, 2007 - 12:12 PM


Hello sum ting wong;

First off I am not a mechanic.I also have a 2007 xr650L(lets have a moment of silence----to honor how fortunate we are to have such awesome machines!!!).Anyway,I've changed oil in my steed about 8-10 times since aquiring it---has approximately 1000 miles on the clock(I know---I'm anal about break-in periods on new machines!)but,I have not noticed any
non-tightening of the frame bolt nor the case bolt.I do not use a torque wrench when I'm tightening "these" bolt(s);I don't know why I just don't.
Is this bike new or otherwise? The reason why I ask is if it is a used bike it may have been (excuse the spelling) helo-cored.When somebody over torques a bolt, it may strip the threads. This could be a possibility;or ,if helo-cored ,it could have "backed-out/in"?.Aluminum,in my experience usually does not give much of a "warning" when it strips/cross-threads.Hope this helps---food for thought.

Off topic question: Do you have any experience with Happt Trails skid plates or white Brothers, if so your oppinion.

  • Whiteman

Posted July 08, 2007 - 03:25 PM


Area you sure it is not inch/lbs iinstead of foot/lbs.

  • Sum Ting Wong

Posted July 08, 2007 - 04:52 PM


Yep, it's definitely ft lbs. Read it many times just to be sure.

Frog> I have a skid plate from Baja Design, and it works very well. My friend has the same plate and likes it too.

  • mjhilbilly

Posted July 08, 2007 - 05:30 PM


This guy is just ham fisted. No question about it.

BTW, my computer works great now!! Thanks, dude.

  • Denn10

Posted July 08, 2007 - 08:06 PM


Pull the bolt out and check the threads inside the down tube see how there looking, and you might wanna get a magnetic bolt cuz that one looks toast. GL hope you didnt strip the threads in the tube

  • frog13

Posted July 09, 2007 - 09:48 AM


SumTing Wong;

Has this bolt alway's looked like this?.If I repeat myself here,I apologize(middle-age hymers I guess)but,was the bike bought new or used.If it was bought new and this bolt came from the factory like this i would be raising a major b-tch!. If the bike was bought used I would contact the person you bought it from and ask them what the deal is;meaning---was the bolt like this when they bought the bike?.The bolt on my bike has remained uniform in thread(s) and length?.


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  • NAW

Posted July 09, 2007 - 10:09 AM


The manual is wrong. I found out the hard way too - exactly the same stretched bolt head. Lucky it did not break off...

I believe there is a list of standard torque settings based on the bolt size. The list is in the front of the manual if I recall. I use whatever it recommends for the bolt size - (I don't have the manual handy - or I'd look it up for you) - then take a big red marker and change the page in the manual.

So now this raises the other question - Did the author of the manual transpose those two torque values? Is the Crankcase bolt supposed to read 29, while the Frame Tube was supposed to be 18 ft lb? I don't know - but I have had no problems running the crankcase bolt at 18 ft. lb.

  • martinfan30

Posted July 09, 2007 - 11:01 AM


i did the same thing! i dont torque em now. i use a new gasket every time an finger tighten, thenmaybe an eighth of a turn more.

  • Sum Ting Wong

Posted July 09, 2007 - 10:01 PM


Threads are still good. Went and bought a new bolt which I hand-torqued. Worked fine.

I found several bolt torque specs online, but all of them list at LEAST 30 lbs/ft for 10mm bolts. I checked the torque on the bolt I put in, and it's around 20. Oh well, whatcha gonna do?

I bought the bike new, and it has less than 1,1,00 miles. Was gonna make a warranty claim, but it's not worth my time. Just makes me question all the torque spec's. Gonna have to do everything old school again, since I don't trust the book.

  • YetiX

Posted July 10, 2007 - 07:51 AM


Frog> I have a skid plate from Baja Design, and it works very well. My friend has the same plate and likes it too.


This guy is just ham fisted. No question about it.

BTW, my computer works great now!! Thanks, dude.

Ham fisted?? Whole f'ing pig fisted is more like it! :thumbsup:

Hey Sum Ting Wong, did you happen to pick up an extra bolt when you were at the dealer? I want to change my oil before we ride Sunday and am a bit afraid of what I'm going to see when I pull the bolt out since I used the same damn torque specs you did.

  • martinfan30

Posted July 10, 2007 - 08:43 AM


better just replace it and the washer. i bought several of both from bikebandit for extras.

  • Sum Ting Wong

Posted July 10, 2007 - 06:26 PM


So I get to Escondido Cycle Center and ask the parts guy for the "frame downtube oil drain bolt and washer." He looks it up, and quotes me $40 for the bolt, and $2 for the washer, but the bolt is not in stock. After looking at the fiche myself, I paid $5 for both and left happy. I didn't buy an extra, but I could pick one up at FBC if ya need one...

I should get some extras.

  • mjhilbilly

Posted July 12, 2007 - 08:19 PM


I should get some extras.

:thumbsup: That would be a VERY smart thing to do!! :thumbsup: :busted:

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