Suspension, How to Adjust it?????
Posted April 14, 2000 - 02:53 AM
I don't want to respring or revalve, I would like to be able to adjust.
86TT225, 98CR80, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards.
Posted April 14, 2000 - 04:45 AM
I only use enough rebound dampening to stop the forks from topping out. The standard WR compression dampening may be fine for MX but most riders find that there is too much compression dampening for trail riding. This makes it rough on sharp hits like rocks. If you change the forkoil to Redline "Like Water" oil (98 model) or "Ultra Light"(99 model), then the compression dampening near maximum should suit MX and near middle should suit trail riding. To stop the forks from bottoming with the lower compression damping you need to set the oil levels between 85 and 95 mm depending on your weight. I weigh 105 kg, that is about 230 pounds, and set my oil levels at 90 mm.
You would hardly believe how well these forks can work with the light oil. I suggest that you try the minimum compression damping for trail riding, after setting the rebound damping so that the forks don't extend too quickly while airborne. If you can feel any jaring as the forks hit the stops then there is too little rebound damping. If the forks seem to get lower as you go over a series of bumps then the rebound is too high.
Posted April 14, 2000 - 08:27 AM
Something that has always been recommended to me is that you should dedicate a day (2-4 hrs) to get the setting right for your own style of riding. It is amazing how few people are willing to do this. I know the guys on ThumperTalk can get you started, but you should experience it yourself for learning.
Take a small notebook and pencil and be sure to wear all your gear (for weight) and just play with the settings. Suspension, unlike other motor mods, you can test right away. You can also set it right back to where it was – that’s what the paper is for. Record everything and what your opinions are. My suspension guy recommends trying it all the way soft (less on click) then all the way hard (less on click) just for comparison. Of course you will have to do this twice – once for MX the other on trails.
Looking at the time people here on Ttalk spend talking about jetting, I would expect much more discussion about suspension. I’m happier with only 85% performance from the motor, if I can get 95% correct performance from the suspension. I am an odd-ball because of my height and weight, so suspension makes a huge difference for me.
Best of luck. Maybe you could post your findings?
Posted April 14, 2000 - 09:57 PM
Don't forget to set your sag. You want 3.5" - 4" of sag with you aboard and all riding gear. When you have it set, you want to check free sag. This is the sag of the suspension with only the bike, NO rider onboard. If you find the sag is right for you, and the spring preload is fully extending the shock without you on the bike (i.e. free sag) your spring is too weak and you need a firmer spring. Free sag should be about an inch or less.
Posted April 14, 2000 - 10:06 AM
What is your weight?
240# and climbing... I just had surgery and I'm suck reading about bikes instead of riding 'em
Kevin brings up a crucial point about sag. Start there and don't play with that one.
[This message has been edited by Jake (edited 04-14-2000).]
Posted April 14, 2000 - 06:37 PM
I ended up with a 5.6 spring in the back, up from a 5.0. In the forks I've got .48's, up from .44's. It makes a WORLD of differnce at speed
Chris in the Mojave