2007 YZ450 Suspension Changes?


20 replies to this topic
  • 02YZ426

Posted July 06, 2007 - 03:01 PM

#1

Did Yamaha change the valving on the 07? My usual setup that worked great on my 06 seems harsh in comparison. Maybe its still tight and needs to be broken in more :thumbsup: I have about 10 hrs on it now. I think the bike handles pretty good... whatever Yamaha changed on the 07 it seems to make the bike corner better. It just seems a bit tight in the front end right now. What do you guys run your clickers at?

  • AZcrRider

Posted July 07, 2007 - 08:47 AM

#2

I like the stock settings alot for most tracks: Fork R=6, C=11, shock R,C =8.
I have not really messed with High speed C on the shock tho?

The forks seem to get a little soft after break in, but the speed -sensitive valving does seem to hold off the bottoming really well. Easier tracks with lots of chop I will run 13 out on fork Comp., and the harder pack/square edge tracks I will run 9 or 10 out.

The shock is awesome, I have not touched it beyond setting the sag. (at about 97 mm)

  • 02YZ426

Posted July 07, 2007 - 09:44 AM

#3

I like the stock settings alot for most tracks: Fork R=6, C=11, shock R,C =8.
I have not really messed with High speed C on the shock tho?

The forks seem to get a little soft after break in, but the speed -sensitive valving does seem to hold off the bottoming really well. Easier tracks with lots of chop I will run 13 out on fork Comp., and the harder pack/square edge tracks I will run 9 or 10 out.

The shock is awesome, I have not touched it beyond setting the sag. (at about 97 mm)


Thats pretty much what I like too. I have my High speed set at 1 1/2 turns out and it seems pretty good there. My forks work great but seem harsh in the rough chop right now, but they still have that new stiffness to them.

  • AZcrRider

Posted July 07, 2007 - 06:05 PM

#4

A couple more break in rides, and you will be fine I think, then go a couple clicks each direction for the type of track. You could always keep it at around 13-15 clicks out on fork Comp. till they break in. Step two would be to change the oil with a complete drain ( outer ) and make sure the cc's are stock ( 340 from factory, I think).

After the forks broke in on mine, I thought it was a little soft, but it is decieving because the forks rarely bottomed.

  • 02YZ426

Posted July 07, 2007 - 06:33 PM

#5

A couple more break in rides, and you will be fine I think, then go a couple clicks each direction for the type of track. You could always keep it at around 13-15 clicks out on fork Comp. till they break in. Step two would be to change the oil with a complete drain ( outer ) and make sure the cc's are stock ( 340 from factory, I think).

After the forks broke in on mine, I thought it was a little soft, but it is decieving because the forks rarely bottomed.


After tomorrows race I'm going to change the fluids. Its a rough track that I'm racing so the forks should be completely broken in by the end of the day. I just wondered if they changed the valving because that would make a difference on my settings that I usually run. The bike doesn't like last years setup so far... I've had to back off the compression some from where I usually have it.

  • Nitroused383

Posted July 07, 2007 - 08:17 PM

#6

Make sure your inner chambers have been bled correctly from the factory. On my bike they were not bleed correctly and it was a very stiff ride. After I changed all the fluids its awesome. This is with a 06 yz250 but its pretty much the same suspension.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 07, 2007 - 10:17 PM

#7

I did some research with several suspension people in trying to find out what viscosity "Yamaha Suspension Fluid S1" is, and while I didn't get a definitive answer, it wasn't hard to tell that most of the people that do that kind of work don't like it very much.

  • ben_suhard

Posted July 07, 2007 - 10:19 PM

#8

I did some research with several suspension people in trying to find out what viscosity "Yamaha Suspension Fluid S1" is, and while I didn't get a definitive answer, it wasn't hard to tell that most of the people that do that kind of work don't like it very much.

Stock fork oil is usually about 5wt isn't it?

  • grayracer513

Posted July 07, 2007 - 10:49 PM

#9

It was explained to me that the viscosity was not so critical in the new fork. But, most of the people I asked said their guess was that S1 is around 3-5wt. I used Maxima Light Shock Fluid (3wt) in the ones I did, and the recommendations I got were that oil, Motorex 2.5wt, and Amsoil Shock Therapy #5 Light.

  • 02YZ426

Posted July 08, 2007 - 01:46 AM

#10

It was explained to me that the viscosity was not so critical in the new fork. But, most of the people I asked said their guess was that S1 is around 3-5wt. I used Maxima Light Shock Fluid (3wt) in the ones I did, and the recommendations I got were that oil, Motorex 2.5wt, and Amsoil Shock Therapy #5 Light.


Wouldn't 3 wt be a tad on the light side? I was using 7wt in my 06 :thumbsup:

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  • grayracer513

Posted July 08, 2007 - 07:10 AM

#11

Wouldn't 3 wt be a tad on the light side?

No, at least not according to MX Tech, Race Tech, my own experience and others. 7wt is a tad on the heavy side for that fork.

  • Nitroused383

Posted July 08, 2007 - 09:29 AM

#12

I don't see how you would get your inner chamber damper rod to fully extend with anything besides S1 oil. I read about alot of people who were not getting full return of the damper rod, and when they switched to s1 in the inner chamber they were seeing full return. I say stick with s1 in the inner chamber and put whatever you want in the outers.

  • 02YZ426

Posted July 08, 2007 - 05:02 PM

#13

After todays race I am not very happy with the suspension. It was a very rough track whoops everywhere and I could not get the bike to handle. I know the forks are better than how they worked today, but for the life of me I couldn't find the happy medium. I'm going to take them apart this week and change the oil height and go with Maxima 5wt in the outers and see what happens.

Why are the stock settings on the fork rebound 5 clicks out from closed? On my 06 it was 8 I believe. The bike was rebounding bad... real bad in the front and being at 5 clicks that doesn't leave much room for adjustment.. I mean you wouldn't want them fully closed or would you? Seems weird.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 08, 2007 - 08:00 PM

#14

I don't see how you would get your inner chamber damper rod to fully extend with anything besides S1 oil. I read about alot of people who were not getting full return of the damper rod, and when they switched to s1 in the inner chamber they were seeing full return. I say stick with s1 in the inner chamber and put whatever you want in the outers.

I don't see how the oil used has anything to do with bleeding the damper cartridge correctly. I had no problem. The process is very simple to do if you understand it, and there's even provision for over filling. The same cannot be said for the '05 AOSS fork, however, so don't confuse problems people have with bleeding those with anything to do with the new fork.

As for S1, I see no reason to spend $28/qt on something that doesn't hold up any better than it does, is hygroscopic, and offers no performance advantages.

  • Nitroused383

Posted July 08, 2007 - 08:14 PM

#15

I don't see how the oil used has anything to do with bleeding the damper cartridge correctly. I had no problem. The process is very simple to do if you understand it, and there's even provision for over filling. The same cannot be said for the '05 AOSS fork, however, so don't confuse problems people have with bleeding those with anything to do with the new fork.

As for S1, I see no reason to spend $28/qt on something that doesn't hold up any better than it does, is hygroscopic, and offers no performance advantages.


Ok, so than you got the damper rod to fully extend using a different oil? You ended up with no free play in the end travel of the rod after compressing it? I am talking about 06 + forks.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 08, 2007 - 08:31 PM

#16

True.

If you have trouble getting them to do this, try this:

Fill the cartridge just a little higher than called for (which won't matter unless you underfilled them the first time), and then, compress the damper rod as before, but pull it back out about a half inch or so before inserting the base valve into the top of it. Then just let go of the rod and push the valve assembly into place. This may leave the cartridge slightly over filled. Now, as per the manual, compress the rod completely at least once. Any excess oil in the cartridge will push the ICS piston up beyond its limit, and the excess oil will be blown out above the piston, where you can then pour it out of the drain ports in the side of the cartridge body.

  • ben_suhard

Posted July 09, 2007 - 08:10 AM

#17

Why are the stock settings on the fork rebound 5 clicks out from closed? On my 06 it was 8 I believe. The bike was rebounding bad... real bad in the front and being at 5 clicks that doesn't leave much room for adjustment.. I mean you wouldn't want them fully closed or would you? Seems weird.

If you wind the clickers all the way in, they won't be fully closed up, there's just not as much flex in the shims, oil can still go through the holes. That'll just be as slow as you can get them without doing a revalve(or thicker oil), and Yamaha must think that you won't need them slower than that. Maybe you can ask Doug Dubach (DR.D), he's still a test rider for Yamaha isn't he?

  • Polar_Bus

Posted July 09, 2007 - 08:16 AM

#18

Did Yamaha change the valving on the 07? My usual setup that worked great on my 06 seems harsh in comparison. Maybe its still tight and needs to be broken in more :thumbsup: I have about 10 hrs on it now. I think the bike handles pretty good... whatever Yamaha changed on the 07 it seems to make the bike corner better. It just seems a bit tight in the front end right now. What do you guys run your clickers at?



How much do you weigh? It's a possibility you are not feeling a suspension that's too harsh, but a suspension that's too soft. Just for giggles, try stiffening up your compression 2 clicks, and see how the bike feels then, if it feels better, than now you know you need to stiffen things up a bit.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 09, 2007 - 09:17 AM

#19

Why are the stock settings on the fork rebound 5 clicks out from closed? On my 06 it was 8 I believe. The bike was rebounding bad... real bad in the front and being at 5 clicks that doesn't leave much room for adjustment.. I mean you wouldn't want them fully closed or would you? Seems weird.

Any of the separate valves in the fork are oil flow metering devices. When the fork is stroked, pressure is applied to one side of the valve and allowed to flow to the other at different rates that will vary with load and speed. The clicker amounts to a variable pressure bleed that usually has no valving ability of its own, and simply lets off some of the high pressure oil without it going through the valve. Because of the way this works, it is actually ideal to have the clickers fully closed, but then the valving would need to be matched exactly to your needs, including the specific place you were riding. The next best is to have the fork work the way you want with the clickers very near closed, so that more oil is forced through the valving where the real control is.

So there's nothing wrong with running the clickers near closed, IF the fork is right for you at that setting. In fact it's better, in general.

  • 02YZ426

Posted July 09, 2007 - 01:55 PM

#20

Good points guys :thumbsup: Thanks. I weigh 160 without gear, so that should be good for the stock springs, I think :thumbsup:





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