17 replies to this topic
  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 12, 2000 - 04:02 PM


Help! You gurus, does the carb on the 2000 have the same throttle limiter as the '99? Took off the plastic cover that was supposed to have two screws and had one. Guess what no pin, or at least one that i can find. There looks to be a screw at the bottom of the opening that might serve as a restrictor. Don't want to start tearing it apart until i know what to do. THANKS!

  • bonez34

Posted October 12, 2000 - 04:23 PM


when i did mine there was a pin limiting the throttle to only half. i ground it down to let it open fully. to check - twist the throttle and look in the carb. does the slide go all the way up or does it stay at half throttle? i think i ground it 10mm and then checked it. it was a 2000 wr and it makes a world of difference to do this. also changing to the yz timing did even more. i cant believe that one tooth on the cam could have so much effect, and i cant believe that i thought my bike was so slow when i got it. i wonder if there are any wr owners who haven't done these mods-better yet ones that sold their bikes because they were slow and bought drz's! HAHAHA

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 12, 2000 - 04:45 PM


bonz, Was the pin press fit into the carb frame or was it a screw in pin? Ive rotated the butterflies in there and cant see anything outright to rework.

  • bonez34

Posted October 12, 2000 - 04:50 PM


the pin in mine screwed in but i can't remember where. it had a smooth shaft-hehe- and a hex like a bolt on the bottom. it presses against the butterfly when it is wide open to stop it. if you turn the butterfly and it stops but you can't see anything under that cover stopping it then my guess would be that it is gone. hope i could help.

  • John_in_Long_Beach

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:01 PM


I have a 2000 model. The screw is located on the back side of the round carb linkage. It screws up from the bottom.

I believe it has a allen wrench head. I got to it with an allen wrench driver and a swivel type, u-joint. Otherwise it is kind of a pain in the arrse to get at, since it has loctite on it.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:06 PM


Thanks bonez, The screw is located at the bottom of the carb frame, just looked again. Its easy to access, i was looking for some hidden pressed in pin after reading all the tech on the bike. I also read somewhere that you should only grind off a certain amount of material from the pin to eliminate full throttle lag. What did you check for when you ground it. Full throttle opening, or is there a dimension to shoot for?

  • bonez34

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:07 PM


hey i didn't think about that- if you live in CA do you get a different carb or anything like that?

  • bonez34

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:08 PM


i went with 10mm and took it from there

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:11 PM


Sorry Bonez one more? 10mm shaft or including the head.

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  • bonez34

Posted October 12, 2000 - 05:21 PM


sorry eric, i ground 10mm off of the total length of the pin. you may not have the same type of pin that i have but i kinda eyeballed it and made sure 10mm was close. mine is a 2000 model bought in VA so go figure. i know there are a lot of articles on this and i think there is one at offroad.com that has pictures and everything-good luck!

  • James_Dean

Posted October 12, 2000 - 06:31 PM


On the 2000WR the stop screw starts out as a 29mm length, take 9-10mm off it to get full throttle. (33mm to start with if you count the hex head)

  • Bryan Bosch

Posted October 12, 2000 - 07:42 PM


Mine 99 throttle stop was completely removed when I bought the bike however; I haven't noticed and hesitation or cutting-out as Baja Designs claim in the tech section of this site. Has anyone else experienced the same thing?

  • Taffy

Posted October 13, 2000 - 02:59 AM


the top should be taken off the carb. watch the slide to see that it goes all the way to the top when turning the throtttle. it should reach where the lid/top would be.


  • Kermit

Posted October 13, 2000 - 08:13 PM


Eric, this is very easy to do. You have to disconnect the throttle cables to get the carb out, I also noticed, to watch the cable tension when you reinstall them, DO NOT get too tight or the throttle will stick. You probably know this too...BUT...take everything apart and GREASE it. Axles,swing arm and linkage, all of the bolts on almost everything. This helps to prevent corrosion. Tighten spokes,sprocket,disks,calipers,handle bars!!! I just replaced my bar the bolts were scary loose! I can go on and on. CHECK EVERYTHING the Japanese don't believe in grease. Rip the head set appart too, grease those bearings.
I think last months MOTOCROSS ACTION had a big list of things to do, they did it on a brand new CR. Invest in a very good torque wrench THE most important tool you will own.

  • Kermit

Posted October 13, 2000 - 08:21 PM


Originally posted by Bryan Bosch:
Mine 99 throttle stop was completely removed when I bought the bike however; I haven't noticed and hesitation or cutting-out as Baja Designs claim in the tech section of this site. Has anyone else experienced the same thing?

Bryan, I have a '00 yes, mine did hesitate at absolute full throttle I had to get a new bolt and regrind it. I eyeballed so it is just a smidge (1-2mm) under absolute full throttle. I guess if it goes above 9000 rpm it confuses the computer. I haven't converted to YZ timing (next week) maybe that has some thing to do with it too?

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 13, 2000 - 09:42 PM


Hey thanks guys for the help, nice to know that there are a lot of cool people out there. eric

  • Kermit

Posted October 14, 2000 - 01:15 PM


I got the magazine wrong where that article is about greasing and tightening your bike...the mag. it is in is the premeir issue of Transworld Motocross it has Rickey Carmichel on the front cover in red and blue Fox gear.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted October 14, 2000 - 05:19 PM


One more for the guys who might be wondering,
I moved the coil directly in front of the carb by removing the two screws and pulling the unit aside. After this I used a 4mm Bondhus allen style balldriver to break the screw free and remove it. The entire procedure took less than five minutes with this tool (even with my big hands). I think i bought the whole set for around $12.00 US. Hope this saves somebody else any hassle with removing and re-installing the screw.


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