Posted September 29, 2000 - 06:21 PM
Here's what happened. I cut the headlight wires and wired a 3 prong adapter from Napa into the existing system. I wired the low and high together while maintaining the ground.
I did this on my last bike with 5,000 miles of success.
Problem is both my tail and headlight don't work at all anymore! I KNOW I wired it correctly---what gives? I try to replace both bulbs-no luck. I put the stock one back on after futile attemps and many beers trying to figure this out-still no lighting!
What the heck did I do? Is there a fuse/resister I may have blown? I even tried the old adapter I knew worked on my last bike that I removed before the sale.
I have not tested it with a meter, but I may go and buy one and give 'er a try.
Anything obvious I may be missing? I am a complete loser for not being able to figure this out? (don't answer that one)
BTW, night riding is WAY TOO MUCH FUN!!!!!!
Been doing it for a few years, if you've never done it- TRY IT!
Posted October 02, 2000 - 02:17 PM
I quite enjoy the rush of night riding too.
Posted October 02, 2000 - 04:40 PM
I just hope there isn't another one that's waiting to fail, like the ignition!
Oh well, life's a b*&ch.
Thanks the reply techman. I think I will grab a multimeter in case I have further problems.
Now I'm all set for those night ventures
I don't think the stator would be overloaded, though. The stock '00 stator pumps out 120 watts, 5 short of the demands I was trying toplace on it. I also removed the stator cover and everything looked clean and fresh as can be.
Posted October 09, 2000 - 01:09 PM
Do you have problems with shadows from your front fender, and do you get the loss of lighting effect when you wheelie?
Posted October 09, 2000 - 02:33 PM
The stator wattage rated may be at a fairly high RPM. I'm curious if you are actually getting better light or if the increased load on the coils is heating the coils and netting you less REAL lighting power. If you measure the voltage at the lights with a single light and then double lights the voltage will most likely drop. Power is proportional to volts squared and this becomes very important when trying to get good light at a lower RPM. Something to think about.
Posted October 09, 2000 - 03:02 PM
With both the high and low beam on at the same time, the lights definitely get dimmer at low RPM's just like the stock light does.
However they are quite bright and do light up the night better IMHO. I would have to say each is not as bright as if only one was on (that's from memory from stock, I didn't wire separate switches. So the sum of 60W high and 55 low is probably not equaling 115-I agree there is less "real light" in this respect. Maybe the wires are too thin as well? Note I removed my tailight bulb.
But the dual pattern it creates allows you to see both close and intermediate distances relatively well--you're right as long as RPM's are kept up to say around 3,500-4,000 rpm's (a guess). But stock was worthless at lower than these speeds, so I don't feel like I have lost anything by doing this.
Yes, when wheeling, the trail gets dark real fast, but usually I'm in negotiating a trail mode not attack mode when the darkness creeps in. You tend to ride a little safer and slower (maybe it's the beers -JK) And there are definately shadows, but they are off the side.
I my last Dual sport had a 6 amp battery to backup the 180W stator, which was a kick-butt setup. I was running 100W high and 55W Low concurrently and could still make the turn signal flash with the brake light on! It would take some of the battery juice, but I charged it regularly and was kickstart so I didn't care.
So if no one has night ridden before, just camp out at favorite riding spot sometime and give it a try. Then you can ride again the next morning too! Best bet is to not stray off too far or bring a GPS as it's easy to get lost
Posted October 10, 2000 - 03:46 PM
To check if you have wire loss, grab two DVM's and simultaneously measure voltage at the regulator or rectifier and then at the bulb contacts. I'll bet your bad connection corroded too quickly because it was heating with the extra 4 or 5 amp loading. Goldwings actually also had a problem with poor stator connectors heating up. A first fix is splice in a parallel connector to run 1/2 current through each. A second fix is to run a bigger wire and the parallel connector. Don't forget to check the ground return side of the circuit! It may also be suffering the same problems. You could take one DVM and check for existence of voltage between the ground side of the bulb and the battery/regulator ground (should be zero volts).
Posted October 10, 2000 - 08:29 PM
Posted October 10, 2000 - 08:39 PM