WR forks suck!



9 replies to this topic
  • Dan_in_pa

Posted September 14, 2000 - 03:27 PM

#1

Ok what do i have to do to convert my wr forks to yz specs? The wr forks can't take the pounding off big jumps!

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 14, 2000 - 05:16 PM

#2

Check out last months Dirt Rider (MXA?).
I had Pro Action do my forks w/ their triple stage valving and re-spring. I still have to lower the oil height, but it isn't a major improvement over stock.

I wish I had read the article first.

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99 WZ, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark/James, got forked by Pro Action, DSP airbox, PB Header, Stroker SX-1 SA, Thumper Rad Guards, Acerbis Hand Guards. Moab, HERE I COME!!

  • Scott_F

Posted September 14, 2000 - 07:20 PM

#3

I hate to tell you, but the YZ forks suck also, and bottom big time on large jumps. I have the cure if you have the money to spend.

Scott F

Originally posted by Dan in pa:
Ok what do i have to do to convert my wr forks to yz specs? The wr forks can't take the pounding off big jumps!



  • Bill

Posted September 15, 2000 - 02:48 AM

#4

I spoke with Jeremy at MX-Tech and he told me the valving is not very good from the factory. About the only thing you can do is crank up the compression to keep the forks from bottoming on hard landings and it will also keep the forks from packing in the whoops. He adised for a 200 pound rider to start at 8 clicks on compression and 8 for the rebound. Rear use 95-100mm sag and 10 clicks of compression and 7-9 rebound.Beyond this, he said to get them revalved.

Good luck!

Bill

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86TT225, 98CR80, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank and IMS seat. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA.

  • Bruce_in_Phoenix

Posted September 15, 2000 - 09:24 PM

#5

The forks rule. Make sure you have the proper springs for your weight. Make sure the oil level is within specs. You can fill the forks up to 80mm from the top and increase your resistance to bottoming very significantly. These forks have a midvalve that is prone to failure, most revalving shops will modify/remove the midvalve when they do their spring.

Don't let a suspension shop tell you that the valving is not very good from the factory! They want to sell a fork service in the worst kind of way. Set the springs properly, add oil if necessary and mess with the clickers. Realizing that if you lessen the compression damping you are also affecting the rebound damping in the same manner. Messing with rebound has little effect on compression damping. So if you tighten up the compression all the way your rebound is going to slow way down and cause your bike to "pack down" or "ride low in the stroke" through bumps, meaning that there is not enough time for the fork to rebound(lengthen) before the next bump.

My guess is you mess with the spring rate and oil height and clickers and you can make it work as wonderful as mine do. Or you can send it off to any suspension "sales" shop and tell them how much you weigh and where you ride and they will twist the knobs and pour in a little oil for you for a mere $150 or so, and even then it may not be correct.

so there.

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  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 16, 2000 - 06:07 PM

#6

Im pretty much having the same problems, but mine are so harsh on rocks, roots, etc.
Ive tried clicking in, clicking out, just about everyting.
I dont think the forks can handle my girth. (227 lbs) I need to do something bad but Im not to excited about buying heaver springs.
But Im sure thats where I need to start.

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Darin from Missouri - 1999 WR 400F

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 16, 2000 - 11:01 PM

#7

Darin,
The initial harshness is precisely what I was targeting for my re-valve. Pro Action claimed it was the damping that gave the harshness. I was wondering if it was seal stiction...

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99 WZ, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark/James, got forked by Pro Action, DSP airbox, PB Header, Stroker SX-1 SA, Thumper Rad Guards, Acerbis Hand Guards. Moab, HERE I COME!!

  • Taffy

Posted September 16, 2000 - 11:40 PM

#8

milkman

i had my bike gold valved over here in the UK. it was awful at first & i never thought that they could be turned around-but they did.

i can't fault them after 10 days green laning & 3 meetings. that's two different types of riding. i haven't touched them!

if i was coming up to a 6-10" tree or rock the bike used to just glance the wheel left or right & pitch me off if it could-even with the compression clickers on the minimum.

the bike just,well, i dunno, er well i don't er, um, well i don't think about it now. i just do it. isn't that the point?

i also had the spring weight go up just two weights from .42 to .46, i was pissed with this coz i thought i was being taken for a ride. but again the bike instead of pitching forwards & back just kept level & allowed me to go quicker.

in roadracing you're always being told that the problem you can feel at the front is actually a problem at the back. so be warned & remember to look after both.

Taffy

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 17, 2000 - 05:33 AM

#9

So, you guys think I just need to start off with heavier springs and go from there?

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Darin from Missouri - 1999 WR 400F

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 17, 2000 - 05:31 PM

#10

Darin,
If you outweigh your forksprings, you will have to dial in more compression to prevent bottoming. Then your forks are so darn stiff off the top, the bike is awful to ride. IN MY OPINION, you are too much for the standard spring rate. The best thing I would recommend is to call some different shops to find a ballpark spring. Due to the different valve stack setup, you may very likely get different numbers. Hopefully they will be fairly ballparkish. With the stiffer springs, you can back off the compression damping until you start to bottom. Leave the clickers at this point until you find a time you need to adjust. Remember, your rebound will be most affected by the increase in spring rate. Hopefully you can compensate with your rebound clickers.




 
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