Posted January 23, 2001 - 04:16 PM
Posted January 24, 2001 - 10:32 PM
I don't totally remove the shock. Just unbolt it from the linkage. You will have to remove the rear brake lever and the kickstand as well as the chain guide roller to pull the swingarm.
You won't have to remove all the wiring from the front end and steering head. But it is a good idea to remove the forks and clamps. I tried to do it once by just removing the top clamp and letting the forks drop low enough to grease the lower head bearing. It was a PAIN in the arse to get it back in place. So much for taking the lazy way. It really isn't so bad and it is kind of fun in a sadistic way.
Posted February 05, 2001 - 08:56 AM
If you don’t have a grease chosen I would recommend Silkolene RG2 grease, its water proof and has a very high melting temp. I actually use this grease for the steering head, linkage, wheel bearings and even as an air filter grease!
Oh, if you haven't worked on the linkage on a WR before be aware of the wax like cage that lubricates the needle bearings in the swing arm. Don't remove these. I know it'll be tempting cause it looks kind of like dryed up grease. I actually did remove mine not knowing better. I used this RG2 and have had no problems, but better safe than sorry.
JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender