Stalling on steep uphills, more flywheel weight or 13 tooth counter?



12 replies to this topic
  • jj

Posted September 10, 2000 - 08:13 AM

#1

I'm having problems stalling my WR on very tight, very steep up hills trails. I just put on new rubber to help with traction but I need to do something to help keep the engine running...
I figure adding about a 7.5 oz weight or changing to a 13 in the front are two options.

Pro's, con's?

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

  • MotoGreg

Posted September 10, 2000 - 12:43 PM

#2

I think a flywheel weight is your best bet. Actually I run a 13 as well, but that's mainly for more "zip" acceleration.

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The proceeding nonsense brought to you by MotoGreg
On two wheels (or 3) since 1970
'92 GSXR 7/11 (Until I get a shwangy 916)
'99 WR/YZ400F 'Cause thumpers rule and two strokes drool!
Visit my photo album for the bargain price of $75 - ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK - EVIL LURKS WITHIN!

  • Bryan Bosch

Posted September 10, 2000 - 12:46 PM

#3

13 in the front or 52 in the rear? Clearly, the rear is more expensive and I think you need a new chain guide block. I'm bone stock however; I'd also like additional lugability. Did the 13 in the front do anything for you?

  • jj

Posted September 10, 2000 - 09:44 PM

#4

Thanks Moto can you explain?

Thanks agian!

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

  • Taffy

Posted September 11, 2000 - 01:29 AM

#5

JJ

i now run YZ timing but this has nothing to do with it. we run similar conditions & machinery. i run 13/50 with a 10oz stealy flywheel. this has no effect on performance & is brilliant for climbing slippery rocks & logs where the introduction of throttle & clutch blipping is undesirable. i also fitted a 48 idle jet coz i'd rather have too much than too little!

you know the times. both hands are on the grips, you daren't touch the throttle. it used to be dug-dug-dug-fizz. now it's dug-d-u-g-d-u-g-dug-dug-whizz!!

due to being used to Ducati clutches i haven't used the clutch but this is now changing.

the flywheel weight is brilliant. there is no way you will regret it. due to the LACK of stalling i ran 13/48 yesterday. i was on fire. i've gotta shut up about the result but i will say that i'm sat here on full gloat!!!put it on your list of must haves.

Taffy



[This message has been edited by Taffy (edited 09-11-2000).]

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 11, 2000 - 03:29 AM

#6

My bike is stock I just turn up the idel a little bit. works fine

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  • MotoGreg

Posted September 11, 2000 - 04:46 PM

#7

If you just have a traction problem, add a weight, it works wonders.

If you want to be able to go slower (like walking speed) without stalling it or having to really slip the clutch you can gear it down. I put a 13 on mine for quicker revving accleration. If you dual sport ride on the street you might want to keep the gearing stock so you aren't revving the nuts off it at speed. I never really go past 60mph or so, so the lower gearing works great for me. A 13 tooth front is only like $15, pop it on, see how you like it... if not, no big loss.

------------------
The proceeding nonsense brought to you by MotoGreg
On two wheels (or 3) since 1970
'92 GSXR 7/11 (Until I get a shwangy 916)
'99 WR/YZ400F 'Cause thumpers rule and two strokes drool!
Visit my photo album for the bargain price of $75 - ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK - EVIL LURKS WITHIN!

  • jj

Posted September 13, 2000 - 04:48 PM

#8

Clarification? Adding more flywheel weight to my WR will help delivery the power to the ground more envenly thus improving traction. What if anything will I sacrifice?

I don't think traction is as big of a problem as much as I need to be able to lug the engine more. Like I said before when I get in those really tight steep areas I find that I need to be somewhere between 1st and 2nd and am therfore stalling more than I would like.

I know that I could change the counter sprocket from a 14 to a 13 but I'm worried about sacrificing top end. What about the rear sproket? As I remember 1 in the front is like 3 in the rear. What about 1 or 2 teeth larger? Will I give up much top end? Will it make much difference?
I am aware that I may have to change my chain size. At what size sprocket do you need to get a larger chain?

Questions, questions, questions...

Thanks guys!

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

  • Taffy

Posted September 13, 2000 - 11:02 PM

#9

the flywheel weight stops the stalling, it puts up with idiots like me who didn't give it enough revs or who haven't blipped the throttle or slipped the clutch like a monkeys right hand!

in my book you don't lose anything you just gain. not everyone does your 'east coast' type riding that you lads over the pond talk of.

either get a 13T which motogreg recommends OR keep the same gearing for your roadwork & buy the flywheel so that you can keep lugging in second gear.

another thing that really helps is the 'juice clutch' as you guys call them. i use my clutch with control now being able to feed it in & out with a delicacy hereto unseen before from a front row forward at rugby!

i used to nearly reach the top of a mound & daren't touch the throttle, now i feed a little clutch & throttle &-without breaking traction-reach the top.

broke it on holiday & went back to the cable for sundays enduro. tried to ride without feeding the clutch & that wasn't clever.

so now i'm suggesting a juice clutch & a flywheel. if you keep this thread going long enough JJ you'll need a new bike!

Taffy

  • jj

Posted September 14, 2000 - 06:45 AM

#10

So the flywheel weight helps the bike lug better, similar to going to a 13 tooth counter, but without loosing the top end? Really?

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

[This message has been edited by JJ (edited 09-14-2000).]

  • Harold_in_So_Cal

Posted September 14, 2000 - 11:11 AM

#11

I tried the 13 front with the stock 50 rear. I found that for me it required too much shifting maxed out revs and speed to quickly. So I changed to the stock 14 front and 52 rear and it has worked well for me. Thats my favorite combination.

Harold

  • Taffy

Posted September 14, 2000 - 12:53 PM

#12

JJ

if you keep to your 14T your obviously going to be at lower revs for any given speed. if you are on tickover in second it will save the bike stalling.

you also have the choice of first gear & not stalling it in second!

go with the 13T first & you can always try the flywheel weight later. i used a 10oz but i believe that clark recommends a 7 1/2 oz.

my top thread explains why i was able to go to taller gearing, it may or may not be relevant. which ever way you go good luck!

Taffy

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 14, 2000 - 03:29 PM

#13

just gag it and go!!!!!!!!!!




 
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