the best way to oil air filter



12 replies to this topic
  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 11, 2000 - 03:14 AM

#1

I was wondering how many of you other wr owners oil your air filter and which oil you use...

  • Dougie

Posted September 11, 2000 - 05:49 AM

#2

PJ-1 foam filter spray. Lightly spray each side, put it in a zip lock baggie and squeeze to get oil in the pores. Let it sit overnight. That way it will start on the first kick.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 11, 2000 - 07:57 AM

#3

I use Stihl filter oil. Many people use plain motoroil. All it reall has to do is stop the dirt particles from enter you carb. Filter oil is tacky so it stops more. I dont do the overnight thing, but make sure to squeeze it throughout.

Nick

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 11, 2000 - 08:25 AM

#4

Conventional motor oil may/will settle out of your filter. Air filter oil WILL NOT drain off your filter.

You can use the baggie method as stated, which I do, and/or you can wear doctors gloves to keep it less messy on your hands. I use both. Look for even color throughout your filter after applying to ensure complete coverage.

Be sure to clean out your airbox and framework prior to placing your just cleaned filter into the airbox.

I have used many major brands of air filter oil. None seemed superior over the next.

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99 WZ, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark/James, got forked by Pro Action, DSP airbox, PB Header, Stroker SX-1 SA, Thumper Rad Guards, Acerbis Hand Guards. Moab, HERE I COME!!

[This message has been edited by Kevin in New Hampshire (edited 09-11-2000).]

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 11, 2000 - 09:50 PM

#5

Maxxima Fab-1.

Tackyist stuff Ive ever seen.

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Darin from Missouri - 1999 WR 400F

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 11, 2000 - 08:44 PM

#6

Unless it's really dusty, I don't really oil my filter at all, some of you might say thats wrong but the filter is of a dual density type and another trick is to spray the sides of the airbox with wd-40 or similar so that any dust likely to enter will get stuck to the sides. When summer strikes or its dusty I use Maxima which comes in a spray pac so you can put it on as thick or thin as you like.

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  • Bill

Posted September 12, 2000 - 02:31 AM

#7

I use the same methods as above and only use filter oil. The difference is to wrap the filter with a towel and squeeze it out. This insures you do not have to much oil on the filter.

Bill

What about greasing the filter edge where it contacts the air box? I quit using grease as per an article I read in MXA. I Guess the "pro" mechanics.

Bill

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86TT225, 98CR80, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank and IMS seat. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 12, 2000 - 05:00 AM

#8

I grease the edge w/ a water soluable grease. If using a dual element filter make sure not the oil the inside filter. Doing so will restrict the flow too much. What did the article say about greasing filters?

Nick

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 12, 2000 - 06:13 AM

#9

MXA stated that greasing the sealing edge that mountsto the box does nothing but make a mess.


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99 WZ, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark/James, got forked by Pro Action, DSP airbox, PB Header, Stroker SX-1 SA, Thumper Rad Guards, Acerbis Hand Guards. Moab, HERE I COME!!

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 12, 2000 - 06:45 AM

#10

I would have to agree about the mess.

Nick

  • Hick

Posted September 12, 2000 - 08:14 AM

#11

I used two stroke oil forever until the spray cans started coming out. Since then I have used UNI, PJ-1 and several others. They all seem to work about the same. I don’t bother with baggies and gloves, I just spray, wring it out, install and ride. But I do let them dry overnight after washing before I oil and use.

I used to use diesel but lately I’ve been using PJ1 Filter Cleaner and warm water. This solves problem of having to regularly dispose of dirty diesel but it is more expensive. It also is great if you want to clean your filter on-site (riding area, race track etc.) because all you need is water and the can of cleaner.

I also used to grease the lip religiously. But if you look at how tight Yammy filter cage seals with air box I don’t think it is necessary. I just spray extra oil on the lip after wringing it out and save the grease for my bearings.

I tried that No Toil stuff once and I know some guys who swear by it but I thought the oil puddled in my filter besides being extra-nasty and sticking to everything in sight. I used it a few times and then gave the rest away.

I also remove my subframe and spray out my airbox every month or so.

But if anybody has a cheaper way to clean filters without using gasoline, diesel or No Toil I’d love to hear about it.

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted September 12, 2000 - 09:38 PM

#12

Hick,
You can try Dawn dish soap, Simple Green, Westley's Clear Magic, etc.
IT HAS TO BE A DE-GREASER to work. Try it on a day where you won't be riding for a few days. You have to give the filter time to dry out thoroughly before oiling it.


------------------
99 WZ, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and IMS seat, jetting by Clark/James, got forked by Pro Action, DSP airbox, PB Header, Stroker SX-1 SA, Thumper Rad Guards, Acerbis Hand Guards. Moab, HERE I COME!!

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted September 12, 2000 - 08:34 PM

#13

Something else I've found excellent to clean air filters is shellite or whitespirits, being 100% hydro-carbon it cleans an lifts oil out of filters like you wouldn't believe, I can't remember the exact price but it's way cheaper than that "pj" stuff and readily available at hardware stores and some supermarkets. I think it's original use was for dry-cleaning.




 
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