XR650L oil capacity???


46 replies to this topic
  • XR650L_Dave

Posted June 15, 2007 - 02:21 PM

#21

If you overfill it slightly, I don't think it will spit the extra out the crancase check-bolt. I think that was co-incidence.

Speaking generaly, when you run the engine, the most oil that is ever going to be in the upper resevoir will be up there, and as soon as you shut the engine off it will slowly drain down to the crancase sump.


Dave

  • murgatroid42

Posted June 16, 2007 - 07:24 PM

#22

If you overfill it, the excess will blow out your crankcase vent hose and into your airbox.

I put 2.06 quarts in mine after an oil change. To check it, I go for a 6 mile ride, and check it immediately afterward. I stop the bike, still sitting on it to keep the bike level, wait about a minute, unscrew the dipstick, and put it back in the hole without screwing it down, then pull it out to check the level. I get consistent measurements this way.

  • malevolent73

Posted June 18, 2007 - 12:07 AM

#23

WoW!!! looks like I created a really HOTT topic! I have found that the bike requires more oil than recommended by the owners manual... I have checked it both ways now... after an idle warm-up, and after a good 10 mi. run, and it is right at the top mark, but it took almost 3 qts to get it there!!!

So I propose that we take a vote!

all in favor of more oil say "I"... all opposed say "ne"!!! :thumbsup:

  • crmc33

Posted June 18, 2007 - 12:42 AM

#24

As well as a XRL based road racer I also own an aprilia Falco V-twin which uses a dry sump engine.
The oil tank on the Aprilia has an external clear oil tube for oil level checks. This can be seen whilst riding. The oil level on the Aprilia is also very difficult to measure accurately.
Based on experience it requires at least 10 miles of riding before a stabilised level is gained. If you check the oil level within the first few miles of riding there is never any oil in the tube.

This will be the same as on the XRL. You have to give it a long run before you will get a stabilised level. For the first few miles there will be very little oil in the tank - It is very easy to over fill these engines with oil.
If theyre over filled with oil they will either dump the oil in the airbox, or as has happened with my XRL that uses no airbox) it dumped its oil on my crankcase/chain and blew the cylinder base gasket :thumbsup:

Anyway, I hope this helps

  • Denn10

Posted June 18, 2007 - 06:04 AM

#25

How do you put EXACTLY 2.06 quarts in LMAO. In my bike i noticed a tube that goes from the top of the oil cavity on the frame to the valve cover so it seems like the overflow would just go to the top of the cylinder.

  • Mogdorr

Posted June 29, 2007 - 09:11 AM

#26

Thaty hose is A vent hose to allow for changes in oil level in the tube resevoir.

Dry sump sytems have multiple stage oil pumps. The scavange stage will pump oil out of the crankcase into the resevoir. It is what sucks the crankcase oil level down to the level of the check plug. The pressure stages pulls oil from the resevoir and pressurizes it for lubrication use in the engine.

  • XR Twitch

Posted June 29, 2007 - 12:49 PM

#27

2 quarts won't even get the stick wet in mine. My dealer was telling me about it when I picked up. They only had two in it when I got there to show me. Let it run for 5 minutes, then waited roe about 10. Pulled the stick, no oil. Took close to another quart in it to the full mark. Told me to keep it to this point. What they found is if you put in 2.06 liters, the oil leave come up to about mid way on the stick in the range marked. He seems to think the guy at Honda doing the US to metric charts isn't to bright. The 650 L is not the only Honda they have had this problem with.

  • frog13

Posted June 30, 2007 - 01:18 PM

#28

First off,I am not a mechanic,engineer,etc.But from what i've read and experienced with my 650L,dry-sumps are more difficult to check.
2.06 quarts,not liters,is approximately----2 quarts and 1.92 additional OUNCES.I know,I'm probably stating the obvious,but,when you convert from metric to standard(English) or vise-versa you come out with weirdo looking numbers.

  • Huffa 2

Posted August 07, 2007 - 01:34 AM

#29

If you overfill it slightly, I don't think it will spit the extra out the crancase check-bolt. I think that was co-incidence.

Speaking generaly, when you run the engine, the most oil that is ever going to be in the upper resevoir will be up there, and as soon as you shut the engine off it will slowly drain down to the crancase sump.


Dave


I'm stll confused over this :excuseme: What your saying just can't be.

Cold (before engine started), with 2&3/4 quarts in, mine is ALWAYS exactly at the full mark then As in manual, start it up 3-5 minutes, check it after 1,3,5, minutes it reads 1/2 way in between readings. :bonk:

I checked a new one cold in a showroom, that reads full too.

  • motometal

Posted August 08, 2007 - 06:11 PM

#30

dealers are notorious for erring on the side of overfilling. I have bought at least two bikes from dealers that I had to drail oil out of, to get it correct.

This is a good debate, my L is a bit goofy with this too, but my opinion/practice is to add the suggested volume of oil, maybe "just a touch" more (not a quart more!), then come up with a standard procedure of checking....such as with a cold engine, running a certain route, back home, idle a minute or two, shut it off, and check. Do this a couple times to get an idea where it runs on your bike, and consider this your "full" mark.

This is how I do it FWIW, and please no one yell at me if this is a repeat of what someone else posted :applause:

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  • martinfan30

Posted August 08, 2007 - 07:04 PM

#31

dealers are notorious for erring on the side of overfilling. I have bought at least two bikes from dealers that I had to drail oil out of, to get it correct.

This is a good debate, my L is a bit goofy with this too, but my opinion/practice is to add the suggested volume of oil, maybe "just a touch" more (not a quart more!), then come up with a standard procedure of checking....such as with a cold engine, running a certain route, back home, idle a minute or two, shut it off, and check. Do this a couple times to get an idea where it runs on your bike, and consider this your "full" mark.

This is how I do it FWIW, and please no one yell at me if this is a repeat of what someone else posted :applause:



i do kinda the same. i will drain down tube, engine, clean screen and replace oil filter. then add 2 and 1/4 quarts of oil. run for 10 minutes, then turn off. let sit for 3 min. and check oil level. usually it will be right on full.

  • motometal

Posted August 09, 2007 - 03:24 PM

#32

yup. I guess another way to put it...unless a person has reason to believe that the lube system is malfunctioning causing oil to "hide" somewhere so to speak, volume of oil at oil change should take precedence over dipstick level.

  • Huffa 2

Posted August 09, 2007 - 03:30 PM

#33

i do kinda the same. i will drain down tube, engine, clean screen and replace oil filter. then add 2 and 1/4 quarts of oil. run for 10 minutes, then turn off. let sit for 3 min. and check oil level. usually it will be right on full.


Why 10 minutes, that seems so long ?

  • martinfan30

Posted August 09, 2007 - 03:44 PM

#34

Why 10 minutes, that seems so long ?


i just want to be sure the eng. is at operating temperature. operating temp. is when you want the level to be the most accurate right? so its just the way i've always done it on my scoots.

  • Huffa 2

Posted August 09, 2007 - 04:36 PM

#35

i just want to be sure the eng. is at operating temperature. operating temp. is when you want the level to be the most accurate right? so its just the way i've always done it on my scoots.


I'll try mine at 10 also but don't think it will make a difference from 5.

At the moment my header is getting the jet hot treatment (ya hooo!!!) so can't try it till next week.

  • martinfan30

Posted August 09, 2007 - 06:02 PM

#36

better show some pics of the finished product!

  • Huffa 2

Posted August 09, 2007 - 07:44 PM

#37

better show some pics of the finished product!


For sure, for sure, on and off the bike.

It will be blinging man, really BLINGIN !! :thumbsup:

  • motometal

Posted August 10, 2007 - 02:38 PM

#38

If you don't bring the engine up to full operating temp, the oil will be thicker (I'm pretty sure multi weight oils are still thicker when cold) and there will be more oil stuck to the walls of the crankcase, etc that hasn't yet drained down to be picked up by the sump.

This can be illustrated by your car...check the oil with cold engine, start it up just say, 30 seconds, then shut it off and check the oil...it's surprising how much the level drops.

I"m not saying it's wrong for your procedure to involve shorter warm up time so long as it's consistent, but it could indeed affect the reading on the dipstick.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted August 10, 2007 - 04:08 PM

#39

If you don't bring the engine up to full operating temp, the oil will be thicker (I'm pretty sure multi weight oils are still thicker when cold) and there will be more oil stuck to the walls of the crankcase, etc that hasn't yet drained down to be picked up by the sump.

This can be illustrated by your car...check the oil with cold engine, start it up just say, 30 seconds, then shut it off and check the oil...it's surprising how much the level drops.

I"m not saying it's wrong for your procedure to involve shorter warm up time so long as it's consistent, but it could indeed affect the reading on the dipstick.


A car is a wet sump, XR650L is a dry sump. If the measurement device (oil cap) is in the frame, you do not want to wait until the oil drains down into the engine. Same deal with the 650R, Honda states specifically to shut off the engine and check it immediately (don't screw down the cap) otherwise the level will show too low if you wait.

  • motometal

Posted August 13, 2007 - 03:44 AM

#40

I realize that, maybe my example/comparison was poor...I was just illustrating how much oil sticks to everything in the motor, and drains back more slowly the colder the engine and oil are. This effect is the same either way, since either way the level will appear lower...wet or dry sump.





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