What Type Of Oil?


49 replies to this topic
  • mcfly

Posted May 30, 2007 - 08:34 AM

#21

toyota has us use 0w-20 and 5w-20 in about half of our line of vehicles. the reason is for fuel economy.


And they protect better at start up.

The new oils are so much better than just a few years ago, they offer way better protection than say the oils of even just 20 years ago.
I run valvoline 10W40 in my cars, truck, boat, bikes, lawn mower, jetski, etc.
If its a 4 stroke motor it gets regular valvoline, and never ever had a problem.
It says energy conserving right on the bottle, and I like that, as its a better lubricant than the other NON energy cons oils...and never have I had a seconds worth of clutch troubles.

  • Motosprtman

Posted May 30, 2007 - 10:46 AM

#22

toyota has us use 0w-20 and 5w-20 in about half of our line of vehicles. the reason is for fuel economy.


My 2006 Tundra, V8, takes the 5-30W. I use Castrol syntech blend and Toyota filters, daily driver of over 100 miles a day.

  • reconranger

Posted May 30, 2007 - 11:01 AM

#23

Those car/truck engines have plain bearings, which actually ride on a cushion of oil. So, running a very pumpable oil is very important with these, to get the pressure up quickly on a cold start. But, there are no plain bearings in any dirt bike engines...at least not yet. There are in some street bikes however.

Motoman has a good article about plain bearings. Couldn't get to his home page, but this might help anybody to find it if they are interested. http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

If you run the very thin oils, make darn sure it's an ester synthetic, with a very high film strength!

  • Motosprtman

Posted May 31, 2007 - 05:19 AM

#24

there are no plain bearings in any dirt bike engines[/B]...at least not yet. There are in some street bikes however.

wana bet? the Old Honda XL's (1972 etc) cam rides on a plain aluminum bushings.

  • reconranger

Posted May 31, 2007 - 05:46 AM

#25

I'm not familiar with the obsolete old XL, but "bushings" and "plain bearings" aren't the same thing at all, are they! A plain bearing has oil pumped into it under pressure, and that prevents metal to metal contact. A bushing just rides metal on metal and counts on a bit of oil to get in there and help things out....but the oil is not under pressure.

  • Motosprtman

Posted May 31, 2007 - 09:45 AM

#26

the plain aluminum bushings on the old XL's have oil supplied to them under pressure by means of a small port that sits flush in the bushing. The XL's also had a four valve head and were the predecessors of the XR line.

  • mcfly

Posted May 31, 2007 - 02:38 PM

#27

http://www.sportride...h/146_0308_oil/

Take 3 minutes out of your day and read this. :thumbsup:

  • Bibleman

Posted May 31, 2007 - 03:20 PM

#28

Good link - I read parts one and two.:thumbsup:

  • mcfly

Posted May 31, 2007 - 04:15 PM

#29

Good link - I read parts one and two.:)


Yes, I should have mentioned that at the bottom of the page is a link to part 2....so thanks for mentioning it is a two part article. :thumbsup:

  • gabriel

Posted June 04, 2007 - 10:50 AM

#30

I would use mobile 1 motorcycle oil...nothing beats synthetic oil, especially on an air cooled engine.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Alex 400

Posted June 04, 2007 - 03:03 PM

#31

I would use mobile 1 motorcycle oil...nothing beats synthetic oil, especially on an air cooled engine.


x2. works amazing. i want to get some thicker stuff though. what do you use? all i could find was the 10w-40 in mobil 1 but i want some 20w-50. do they make it?

  • gabriel

Posted June 05, 2007 - 05:44 PM

#32

I've never had a honda that didn't shift like butter!!


I don't consider my '07 XRL 650 a particularly good shifter...im going to try the 10w40 thing though.

  • gabriel

Posted June 05, 2007 - 05:47 PM

#33

x2. works amazing. i want to get some thicker stuff though. what do you use? all i could find was the 10w-40 in mobil 1 but i want some 20w-50. do they make it?


i use mobile 1 10w30 but it's the car stuff...haven't had any clutch slippage but who knows what might happen down the road. i am going to change to mobile 1 cycle 10w40 as soon as I get my new piston and rings broken in. I don't worry about using thick stuff when i am running synthetic. If you want your engine to outlast the chassis run mobile 1

  • martinfan30

Posted June 05, 2007 - 08:13 PM

#34

My 2006 Tundra, V8, takes the 5-30W. I use Castrol syntech blend and Toyota filters, daily driver of over 100 miles a day.


ya your tundra is specified to use 5w-30. the new generation engines in the rav4,camry,5.7 tundra,some hybrids,etc. use the thin stuff.

  • EarlT

Posted April 13, 2008 - 04:27 PM

#35

After reading many Posts on this matter,

I have concluded:



Use Engine Oil designed for use in Diesel engines,

the reason being;

Diesel engine must withstand Much pressure,

due to 19-21:1 compression Ratios.



The Diesel engine Oil

withstands much more strain

than a MotorCycle engine develops.





Consider this.



MotorCycle engine
XR600/XR650L

33-50HP



Diesel engine puts out 500hp,

1850 lb-ft lbs Torque

and pulls 105,000 lbs weight of Load,

plus weight of Truck

and weight of Trailer,

and will do that,

while Climbing a Mountain.







http://www.detroitdi...erformance.aspx





and No ill effects on Clutch.

  • HeadTrauma

Posted April 13, 2008 - 10:18 PM

#36

After reading many Posts on this matter,

I have concluded: Use Engine Oil designed for use in Diesel engines, the reason being; Diesel engine must withstand Much pressure, due to 19-21:1 compression Ratios.

The Diesel engine Oil withstands much more strain than a MotorCycle engine develops.


Simply put, no, that is not the reason. Most all modern engine oils are designed to and work well to prevent metal-to-metal contact. The reasons we use diesel-spec oils are:

1. They have higher zinc and phosphorous which is good for sliding parts like valvetrain while containing less molybdenum which is bad for clutches. Lots of modern oils intended for gas engine passenger cars would work just as well, but many also have lots of moly in varying amounts, which is simply why we don't use them.

2. It costs $2.50-3.50 per quart versus motorcycle-spec oil at $8.00+ per quart.

  • reconranger

Posted April 14, 2008 - 04:54 AM

#37

As for "high pressure additives", combistion chamber pressure isn't what is being refered to in this regard, but rather the fact that your motorcycle has an integrated transmission where the oil is getting constantly sheared down at high pressure between gears, which is a considerably different environment than a diesel engine.

Keep in mind that new "diesels" now have catalytic converters, and that "diesel" oils have gotten a downgrade in their additive package (zinc and phosphorous) for that reason....just like cars got a downgrade some years ago! The point here is that some VOA that looked good for your favorite diesel oil a few years ago, won't necessarily look so good today!

But....one must also be careful, because street bikes now have catalytic converters as well. Watch out for downgrades in the additive package of "manufacturer branded" motorcycle oils as well!!! Check the bottle, is the oil still API SG or not???

Just for the record, there isn't an oil of any kind that has an additive package as robust as any Maxima motorcyle oils do for example....seeing you mentioned that as a criteria. (And, just for the record, I don't run Maxima so don't mistake this for a Maixma commercial....I run Redline which has a nice robust additive package as well!) http://www.sportride...l/photo_03.html

Appearently, the word "diesel" makes you feel good about an oil! As for me, the words "motorcycle specific", API SG/JASO MA is what will continue to make me feel good about an oil for an engine with an integrated transmission.

  • Denn10

Posted April 14, 2008 - 05:36 AM

#38

RECON do you search for all "oil" posts throughout this whole forum? LOL call you the oil guy!

  • reconranger

Posted April 14, 2008 - 07:01 AM

#39

Oil is like religion.....everybody has a different opinion, and it is all based on different interpretations of reading the same information.

There is a ton of good scientific oil info out there. Read it for yourself, cut past the emotion and "religion", and base your decidions on what the science tells us! For me, if someone can't read all this and get the picture that a synthetic API SG/JASO MA oil is the safest way to go, then I hope they run piss in their engine and pay the price for their stupidity!!!

  • Denn10

Posted April 14, 2008 - 07:38 AM

#40

Oil is like religion.....everybody has a different opinion, and it is all based on different interpretations of reading the same information.

There is a ton of good scientific oil info out there. Read it for yourself, cut past the emotion and "religion", and base your decidions on what the science tells us! For me, if someone can't read all this and get the picture that a synthetic API SG/JASO MA oil is the safest way to go, then I hope they run piss in their engine and pay the price for their stupidity!!!


So we can refer to you as "Reverand Recon" AKA oil masta?? LOL I can tell by seeing your post around that you are pecular about oils. Not blasting you at all so dont think so just bieng a funny wise guy!

Reverand Recon says......Use the correctly rated oil for the bike!!!!! LMAO
Posted Image
Recon you are a pimp in that white suit baby!!





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