Posted February 05, 2002 - 09:36 PM
Posted February 06, 2002 - 04:48 AM
remove cover on throttle side, and cables.. loosen the air boot clamp and slide it off and tuck it next to the frame...(left side) pull carb out the left side..
under the black cover for the cable pulley is the throttle stop... grind, cut or replace.
In the bottom of the carb are your jets, and air screw, probably easier to look at the manual for pics on needle adjustment.
and check into the BK mod
Posted February 06, 2002 - 06:00 AM
Posted February 06, 2002 - 06:58 AM
You did get the owners manual with your new bike, right? The manual has excellent diagrams of just about everything on the bike. It also has a very good section on tuning the carb.
Take close up pictures of both sides of the carb area before you start. If you get totally lost they might come in handy
Read it, Know it, Live it
Posted February 06, 2002 - 07:03 AM
Just don't want to see you waste time with rejetting for the bike setup NOW, as often new WR's undergo a series of mods that typically needs some jetting work after the fact.
The needle can be had by removing the carbs' top cover, use an allen head thandle to remove a screw (watch for a brass ring and spring under the screw), and the needle should come right out.
Be extremely careful putting it back in straight.
The black plug could mean it's only rich in some area of thottle operation. Almost everyone's plug looks black on the edges. Look at the insulator tip. Also, you can use electrical grease on the plug to keep it from rusting.
Man, you got a lot of research to do! I've had my WR for about 2 years and I'm still learning!
Yep, get a magnetic drain plug and change the VERY often during the first 10 hours of operation.
Posted February 06, 2002 - 11:27 PM
undo the throttle cables at the throttle twister.
loosen the rubber boots on the in and out side of the carb.
remove the hot start button
disconnect the CDI (Electrics) & gas
pull the carb whilst feeding the throttle cables down through.
If you are intent on doing this often..then do a search on 'easy carb off' or something like that and you'll get some additional pointers that make it even easier.
Posted February 07, 2002 - 05:34 AM
Posted February 07, 2002 - 05:39 AM
Back to changing the needle. All I did was loosen the air box boot and the connecting boot in front of the carb, then just twisted the top over to the left, undid the cover plate, unscrewed the allen screw above the needle, reached in with a pair of tweesers and pulled the needle out. reversed the operation to put it all back. Took about 5 min. but I was taking my time and checking everything out.
Posted February 08, 2002 - 06:26 AM
Ooop's sorry, I forgot to mention the mag/drain plug when we talked. After seeing all the crap mine picks up I now consider them a must have item. I feel that its a good idea to change your oil the 1st 3-4 times, even if you only run 20-30 min. But then again, I'm kinda anal about bits-o-metal floating around looking for a place to hide and damage. (Cheap insurance). Once again you have my number, feel free to call if you neeed help.
Posted February 08, 2002 - 01:52 PM
Posted February 09, 2002 - 06:06 AM
Yes get one, as a matter of fact be sure to get a spare and crush washers also. As it's aluminum housing the magnet and could easily strip itself out, it's much softer than your cases. At least my Yamaha one is. The amount of gunk seems to be tappering off, but there will always be bad stuff to be had.
Posted February 10, 2002 - 04:47 PM
mcarp and dan are correct about your jetting.
until you get more saddle time you've yet to get a true feel for the machine and the signals it will send you.
you would be best served if you put a 3 or 4 more hours of easy riding on it, changed the oil and filter again, then take advantage of the free mods (cut greywire,remove baffle and air box lid) then install your new throttle stop or cut the old one to 23mm.after doing these put another few hours on it in a mix of different elements. now you should be totally familiar with your new bike. my bike felt very weak and poorly carbureted until I did the mods, it was a major difference. I also have stock jetting with a BK pumpshot at approx 3/4 of a second. I felt a little longer pump shot would offset the lean-ness I created with with the accel pump mod. when I get a freer breathing pipe I'll do some jetting mods. if you live and ride near sea level your jetting should be pretty good.
have fun on your new bike !
Posted February 11, 2002 - 02:45 PM
Originally posted by tp3dxf:
I just purchased my WR426 01 last Thursday. After talking with Socalwr426 I changed my oil as he suggested. I had only ridden the bike one for about 1hr. To my surprise the oil was full of tiny metal particles. My filter was actually full of the stuff. I was shocked. Another thing that surprised me was when I asked my dealer to get me the shorter throttle stop screw. He looked at me like I was an alien. He even tried to tell me not to believe what I read on the net. Well this may be true for many things after what I have learned here I felt confident that I had at least some Idea what I was talking about. After about an hour I talked to my salesman who also rides a 426 and the GM and they found the part just like that. I knew that parts man was full of it. Also I pulled my plug to check it out. It was all rusted up on the washer and the nut. They set me up with two replacement plugs for free. Mike the salesman recommended that I raise the needle jet up on click to lean it out. It was kinda black and sooty. Now my real problem is how to raise the clip and replace my old throttle stop screw with my new one. I know this isn't brain surgery but I am not sure exactly how to do this. I am thiking of letting the dealer do it but then I'll have to pay and I won't learn how to do it my self. If anyone has the time to give me some detailed info on these things I would be greatfull. Thanks. Later.