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Quick Question on Valve adjust


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Not sure which bike you are talking about, the 650R is a dry flywheel. The 650L and 600R have little plugs that unscrew. One over the timing marks and another over the flywheel bolt. You can use the flywheel bolt to turn the engine. Remove the sparkplug to make turning the engine easier. No oil draining needed on any of them.

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Not sure which bike you are talking about, the 650R is a dry flywheel. The 650L and 600R have little plugs that unscrew. One over the timing marks and another over the flywheel bolt. You can use the flywheel bolt to turn the engine. Remove the sparkplug to make turning the engine easier. No oil draining needed on any of them.

Ugh, sorry, forget this is a multiple model forum. It's a 650R, and thanks for the info. I had no idea it was a dry flywheel.

Thanks a bunch :applause:

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Take off the stator (side case) cover and make sure to follow the crank rotation procedure to keep the autodecompression from interfering. I also remove my sparkplug to make it easier to rotate. The previous owner put silicone seal on the stator wires exiting the cover to keep water out.

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Another trick that's my standard practice is to put the bike on a stand, pull the spark plug, put a straw (or anything skinny and clean, like a piece of wire) into the spark plug hole, and put the tranny in 5th gear. Rotate the rear wheel (in the correct "forward" direction) until you see BOTH valve sets close. Then, continuing to rotate the wheel, when the straw reaches the top of its travel you are at TDC. If the straw starts to move back downward, do NOT turn the wheel back,ward, just go through the sequence again.

Always takes me 2-3 tries before I stop the rotation at the right spot but this process is a lot simpler for me than pulling the inspection plug and going nuts trying to find the x!?#*#!! TDC mark.

My two cents.

Ride safe.

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