Explain ???? about chains PLEASE.


15 replies to this topic
  • PIP RC51

Posted April 26, 2007 - 06:40 PM

#1

I am shopping for a 520 chain and sprockets for my 650R. I am putting 17's on it for the street and swapping to original wheels for the dirt. It will be ridden 70/30 - 80/20 street sport riding. I have decided on 15/44 street and 13/48 for woods (that will still accept a 110 link chain) and both steel sprockets. I understand about O-Ring chains are better and the X-Ring chains are better yet.

Here is my questions;
1. Which is better strength wise? Riveted master link or clip style? (I am 250lbs and will be hard on the gas)

2. What do all the letters on the chain mean?
- I know 480, 520, 530 is the strength / heaviness of the steel (520 for the 650R) but, there are letters after that like ENV, ERV ???

WHAT DO THE LETTERS MEAN ?????? :applause:


PIP

  • HawkGT

Posted April 26, 2007 - 07:24 PM

#2

Those letters are just the chain model designations used by manufactures. The 420, 520, 530, etc numbers correspond to the link sizes. The first digit is the pitch (length between pins): 4 = 4/8", 5 = 5/8", 6 = 6/8". The second and third digits are the roller width: 20 = 2.0/8", 30 = 3.0/8", etc.

  • Denn10

Posted April 27, 2007 - 05:55 AM

#3

AS for your question about master links...in many years of racing i have NEVER broken a chain or a clip on master link so i would use the clip on master youll be fine with that , you just need to keep your chain clean and lubed and it will be fine.

  • roadrunner81

Posted April 27, 2007 - 08:33 AM

#4

I have had two master links fail on me, one leaving me stranded. Both broke from wear from no lube I think it goes out the link side, so anyways I decided to try the stronger and recomended rivet type link hoping that it will hold in the chain lube and keep water out.

  • Rangerfng

Posted April 27, 2007 - 09:03 AM

#5

As far as the master link you want to be sure to put the link on so that the open end is facing to the rear. If you put it on with the open end facing the front it could strip off when in muddy terain

  • philipstjohn

Posted April 27, 2007 - 11:49 AM

#6

A riveted master link is what is stock on the XR650R. I would stick with this type of chain. If you follow the owner's manual suggestions on the chain service, you should be able to reley on any chain not failing you under its expected life. I have read the power and torque of the 650R is too much for the clip master link, and your asking for failure running one. :applause:

  • Naru

Posted April 27, 2007 - 01:50 PM

#7

Riveted chains have treated me very well over the years. While I've never ran anything but them on the 650R, I wouldn't want to, either, as the bike has quite a bit of power for a clip-style link. If you decide to go rivet-style however, be warned that you will need to pick up a not-so-cheap tool (I've found RK has a nice breaker/riveter for ~$85), and learn the art of masterlink riveting. Mushrooming the rivet heads on the masterlink is actually quite an art, and I ruined 3 masterlinks my first chain and 2 the second chain getting a feel for the pressure; too much pressure and you get a sticky link, too little and you risk a critical failure. Just make sure that your first time you mushroom the heads a little at a time, checking the thickness of the masterlink compared to the others and how freely it moves.

While you didn't ask for it, my 2 peanuts on chains is to get a DID ERV3. It's about as expensive as they come (something like $150 before any discount), but they are tough as nails and don't stretch at all after a small break-in stretching. Likewise, Dirttricks (AKA Ironman) sprockets are worth every penny and complement the long lasting ERV3 perfectly. :applause:

  • HawkGT

Posted April 27, 2007 - 02:16 PM

#8

I second the DID ERV3. Expensive and you'll need special tools for the rivet link (or have a shop do it) but it's the best chain money can buy, IMO. Not only is it long lasting, it is very low friction for an o-ring type chain.

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  • PIP RC51

Posted April 27, 2007 - 04:52 PM

#9

Thanks for the info on the master link. I have always used a riveted one on all my street bikes (FJ1200, FZR1000, VFR750, RC51, Ducati's, yada, yada, yada) and NEVER had a failure. The first 5 miles i put on my 650R PIG, ended up with a broken masterlink after crossing a few logs and my fat a$$ pushing it back to the truck. :excuseme: Mind you, the chain was not maintained like I would have and may have been the origional.
I'm going with the riveted. :applause:

What I am looking for it the meaning of the letters after the numbers on the chain.

LIKE: VM, ERV, ERV3, ZLV Do they stand for something or they just model numbers

PIP

  • jetfuel

Posted April 27, 2007 - 05:40 PM

#10

they are just model designations typically coinciding with the tensile strength of each chain per manufacturer ... heres a link to RK chains designations with a chart ... http://www.motorcycl...cc/rk/chain.asp I'm sure there is one for D.I.D. chains some where too ...

  • InternalCombustion

Posted April 27, 2007 - 06:09 PM

#11

Regarding our talk the other day, PM me with your email addy (I lost it) and I'll send you a gearing / speed calculator in Excel format. It also shows the different gearing combos you can use on the 650R, with the factory 110-link chain.

Ride safe.

  • LoopyJones82

Posted April 27, 2007 - 06:11 PM

#12

I am shopping for a 520 chain and sprockets for my 650R. I am putting 17's on it for the street and swapping to original wheels for the dirt. It will be ridden 70/30 - 80/20 street sport riding. I have decided on 15/44 street and 13/48 for woods (that will still accept a 110 link chain) and both steel sprockets. I understand about O-Ring chains are better and the X-Ring chains are better yet.

Here is my questions;
1. Which is better strength wise? Riveted master link or clip style? (I am 250lbs and will be hard on the gas)

2. What do all the letters on the chain mean?
- I know 480, 520, 530 is the strength / heaviness of the steel (520 for the 650R) but, there are letters after that like ENV, ERV ???

WHAT DO THE LETTERS MEAN ?????? :applause:


PIP


get a D.I.D. ERT2 Gold chain :]

  • xrltim

Posted April 27, 2007 - 06:11 PM

#13

I have a DID 530 VA 110 chain that is brand new in the package that I'll sell for half retail if you are interested.

  • philipstjohn

Posted April 27, 2007 - 06:46 PM

#14

I second the DID ERV3. Expensive and you'll need special tools for the rivet link (or have a shop do it) but it's the best chain money can buy, IMO. Not only is it long lasting, it is very low friction for an o-ring type chain.


I have been looking around for the DID ERV3 ( I assume it is a 520/110) and have not found one avaliable? Any suggestions? Also, is there a great tool option out there in addition to the RK tool mentioned to be able to install? :applause:

  • HawkGT

Posted April 27, 2007 - 07:31 PM

#15

I imagine the TT Store can get you one. I did a quick Google search and this is the first retailer I came across that carries them: http://www.pit-bull.com/. I'm sure there's many others. I bought one from an E-bay seller about a year ago. If you find a DID ERV2, that's nearly as good. The ERV3 is just the newest version of the ERV2. I use to run an ERV2 (520 size) on a 120hp sportbike.

I use this chain breaker/riveter from MotionPro and I've been happy with it:

Posted Image

  • 1Hondalover

Posted April 28, 2007 - 08:40 PM

#16

Riveted chains have treated me very well over the years. While I've never ran anything but them on the 650R, I wouldn't want to, either, as the bike has quite a bit of power for a clip-style link. If you decide to go rivet-style however, be warned that you will need to pick up a not-so-cheap tool (I've found RK has a nice breaker/riveter for ~$85), and learn the art of masterlink riveting. Mushrooming the rivet heads on the masterlink is actually quite an art, and I ruined 3 masterlinks my first chain and 2 the second chain getting a feel for the pressure; too much pressure and you get a sticky link, too little and you risk a critical failure. Just make sure that your first time you mushroom the heads a little at a time, checking the thickness of the masterlink compared to the others and how freely it moves.

While you didn't ask for it, my 2 peanuts on chains is to get a DID ERV3. It's about as expensive as they come (something like $150 before any discount), but they are tough as nails and don't stretch at all after a small break-in stretching. Likewise, Dirttricks (AKA Ironman) sprockets are worth every penny and complement the long lasting ERV3 perfectly. :applause:


While I can't personally comment on the other brands/models, I have heard and seen the positive and the negative. In any case you are asking for trouble if you try to shortcut the riveted master link with something easier.

What I can personally tell you is about the awesome ERV2/3 and Ironman sprockets. My chain and sprocket care: After FULLY pressure washing said chain and sprockets, I lightly spray WD-40 on the chain to keep it shiny. I have NEVER lubed an ERV2 or 3.

How long do they last? I get two seasons worth of mega-miles both play riding and racing. Just so you know, I am a big guy on a built 650R and I have a pretty good record of winning local desert races in the 40+ Expert class. Not cheap it's true but at least you know what WON'T give you trouble.





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