XRR Mount Stock Heat Shield on Any Header

4 replies to this topic
  • Billahjack

Posted April 15, 2007 - 04:42 PM


Another tip here for those that buy aftermarket headers. I finished my Moriwaki install this weekend and put the stock heat shield on it. I think it looks great and it feels solid. Hopefully it will keep my enduro pants from melting on the cold days.

Its pretty easy if you have a dremel tool and a black thin cut-off wheel for it. I slit the steel brackets so I could feed hose clamps through them, then I cut the hose clamps to length on the bike.

Heat Shield:
Posted Image

On Bike:
Posted Image

  • XRR-kat

Posted April 18, 2007 - 07:08 AM


I'll be mounting my Mori from BVH soon and may have to do that.
So, it gets pretty hot ?!
You use any insulation between the heat shield and the mori ?
Not sure what would work, but the Mori kit had some insualtion tape for the exhaust brackets I think.
I'm still waiting on the sparky. They sent the wrong one.
Is this the one that ESR (sp?) offered? Looks good.
Doesn't look dual sported. How loud?

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  • Billahjack

Posted April 18, 2007 - 07:54 AM


I'm not sure which pipe version I have. I picked it up used from a guy on ADVrider. It had a dent on the end of the muffler midpipe that I had to repair. Be careful not to drop the pipes as the fit is so tight that they will not go together if they are not perfectly round.

The exhaust can says "ZERO" in blue on the logo plate along with Moriwaki Engineering. The kit did not come with any insulation. The kit comes with High Temp RTV silicone to seal the pipe joints.

For the install, I would suggest removing the radiators for easy access to the head bolts. I mounted the head pipes really loose, then connected everything and torqued the head bolts last for the exhaust. Try to keep the pipes centered in the exhaust ports when you do the final torque.

Watch out! All the stamped steel is really sharp. I cut myself on the muffler hangar bands. They are also a bear to mount to the pipe. I had to mark the pipe with a permanent marker for where the bands line up with the triangle bracket and then take the pipe off to mount the bands to it. This took an hour alone.

The forward heat shield hose clamp slightly pinches the springs agains the header. Doesn't look like an issue right now, but I'll check on it after a couple rides.

Sounds slightly louder than the Yosh pipe I took off. About the same as my Powercore4 with old baffle packing.

Yes it gets hot. The heat shield keeps it about the same as the stock header. Wipe all finger prints off the pipe with alcohol before you start the bike. They will show up after the pipe goes through the first heat cycle.

My bike is dual sported. You can see a black blinker stalk in the photo.

  • XRR-kat

Posted April 18, 2007 - 12:54 PM


Is that loudness, "same as Powercore 4", with the spark arrestor?
I hear you about the tight fit. I'm going to have to remove all the silicone sealant before I can get it together again and it is snug!

  • Billahjack

Posted April 18, 2007 - 04:38 PM


Yes on the loudness with Spark arrestor. I did feel a power gain with proper jetting over the stock header/yosh pipe combo. The bike wheelies in 2nd gear really easy now through roll-ons.

One more modification that I did to the pipe was grind out the welds on the head tubes going into the cuylinder head. There are some nasty mig welds in there that restrict the flow. I ground them nearly flush with a dremel tool and two larger diameter red grinding stones. It took a while. The bottom end seems pretty strong with the Stage 1 Hotcam and side panel cut-out.

Two things went through my mind about the interior welds on the cylinder head exhaust port interface -

1.) The welds look like they restrict about 20-30% of the flow due to reduced cross-section. This would reduce top end power.

2.) Maybe the welds are vortex generators than get the air to vortex pulses down the pipe. Picture smoke rings moving down the pipe. If this is the case, then it might help low-end power but probably not affect top end power. However, the large diameter of all the pipes should defeat the gains for low end.

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