Grease Everything...



4 replies to this topic
  • Pooley

Posted January 30, 2002 - 03:15 PM

#1

OK, now that there is lots of snow here in Michigan, I thought I would take the beast apart and lube everything just like it has been recommended for all new bikes (new in Oct 01).

Just what constitutes "everything"? I don't mind taking lots of things off, just as long as I don't need a professional mechanic to put it back together.

I am pretty handy with the tools and as long as its in the manual how to put it back together I'm OK.

Whats your collective advice? Any must do items?

Thanks.

  • Carl_Youngstrom

Posted January 30, 2002 - 03:48 PM

#2

From what I remember from posts on this board back when mine was new (March 2001), it is recommended if there is a bearing, take it apart and grease it. I don't race, mostly sunny day trail ride, and I was a little lazy and didn't do any right away. By the time I decided to take the rear wheel off after a few rides, I damn near didn't get the axel out. I tell you, if I'm forced to pay a $200.00 'Set-up' fee, and the factory doesn't use enough grease, the dealer should be doing this. But they don't, so we are stuck. Happy wrenching!

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  • mcarp

Posted January 30, 2002 - 03:49 PM

#3

I'm in the process of doing this as well. There are parts ALL OVER my garage!

- Steering head, upper and lower bearing.
- Wheel bearings, you may have to remove the seals (which ruins them) to grease the bearings.
- Swingarm and linkage bolts/bearings/seals/spacers.
- Shock Bolts (loctite the bottom bolt)
-Brake pins (use a small amount here)
- Fork seals(I use vaseline here, but plain ol grease should be OK too. Clean them out first with a credit card or a thin PLASTIC tool.
Other stuff, perhaps not as critical to grease
- Kickstand pivot
- Footpeg pivot
- Rear brake pivot
- Control cable pivots/cable ends

Other lube
- All cables
- Throttle tube
- Put a drop or two of penetrating oil/graphite on the clutch pivot shaft and decompression shaft.

Don't forget the anti-seize on every bolt you remove. FYI, my lower engine mount bolt was seized/corroded pretty badly after two seasons. Grease them now before you go through the PITA process of removing a stripped nut/seized bolts

Electrical grease (called dielectric grease) on all wiring connectors including spark plug boot, the spark plug itself including the base (use antiseize on threads). No worries, all the connectors only plug into the correct place so you won't plug anything in the wrong place.

Most of the work is cleaning the parts before you grease/reinstall and checking/rechecking bolt placement and torque values in the manual.

Some other stuff to do while you're working on it.
- Bleed brakes with quality fluid, use the same fluid from a NEW, FRESH container next season.
- Clean brake rotors with brake cleaning solvent or acetone with a clean rag.
-Emmerse chain in kerosene for a day or two, then scrub with a nylon (not metal) brush. (the "Grunge Brush" rocks!)
- Any other stuff you want to add (damper, computer, graphics, etc)
-Torque check on other bolts.
-Clean carb/accel pump

Good luck, you'll find it gets easier once you do it once. Plan on using a couple of cans of solvent at the minimum, buy some good moly grease, antiseize, dielectric grease etc.

Ohh, one more thing...if you're changing seat covers, spray the foam with silicone to avoid mold/mildew buildup (yechh!)

That's about all I can think of. The manual is really pretty decent regarding telling you what to grease.

  • SFO

Posted January 30, 2002 - 06:45 PM

#4

You might consider also plugging the botton hole in the filter cavity either a set screw or silicone.
Mcarp, you gotta a seriously complete list there,
want a job?
BTW, my ol' lady wants all, ohhh-nothin,

  • mcarp

Posted January 30, 2002 - 08:33 PM

#5

BooYaa! SFO, if I was in the Bay Area I would help you out..what hole are you talking about????
I don't recall ever having to plug any hole (ouch or am I missing something?) Please, do tell in more detail!

The one on the bottom, front side of the airbox (WR has small clear closed off hose, YZ has small open bent down tube) needs to be unplugged if you're considering riding in any type of water or even washing the thing...can't really figure out why it's plugged other than EPA laws...

Pooley, there's quite a bit other stuff you can do over the winter downtime. Topend vent tube reroutes, carb Y connector reventing, etc. What other stuff have you done?

One thing we didn't mention, and I think this is pretty important for a relatively new bike. Get the suspension fluid changed after about 20-30 hours of riding! I can't recommend a fluid, but I can recommend MX-Tech/East as a suspension tuner/servicer. You're local shop can probably do it too, or if you're so inclined learn to do it yourself.




 
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