carillo rod on stock crank or complete stock crank??


22 replies to this topic
  • doublediesel

Posted April 04, 2007 - 05:39 PM

#1

Looking at at carillo upper rod or complete honda crank? Only about 100.00 bucks difference, complete crank is more. What do you think?

  • rmhrc630

Posted April 04, 2007 - 07:51 PM

#2

HOnda OEM cranks are pretty damm good...

  • Xr650rhonda

Posted April 05, 2007 - 01:43 AM

#3

Looking at at carillo upper rod or complete honda crank? Only about 100.00 bucks difference, complete crank is more. What do you think?


The Carrillo is stronger, better oiling and you can rebuild it.

  • doublediesel

Posted April 05, 2007 - 04:21 AM

#4

The small rod end at the piston wore out on the wrist pin. Pin is still in spec. Have bits of brass colored metal in the oil... Leaning towards the rod only, already have too much i$$$ in a worn out bike. Anyone know were I can find a rod only for less than the $209.00 I found online?

  • creeky

Posted April 05, 2007 - 05:03 AM

#5

The small rod end at the piston wore out on the wrist pin. Pin is still in spec. Have bits of brass colored metal in the oil... Leaning towards the rod only, already have too much i$$$ in a worn out bike. Anyone know were I can find a rod only for less than the $209.00 I found online?


XRs Only has Hot Rods, check their site www.xrsonly.com

  • doublediesel

Posted April 05, 2007 - 05:13 AM

#6

Yeah I checked them, none for the 650R though

  • cleonard

Posted April 05, 2007 - 07:38 AM

#7

Yeah I checked them, none for the 650R though


That sounds strange. They have a lot more stuff than they list on the website. Give them a call.

  • doublediesel

Posted April 05, 2007 - 09:14 AM

#8

Called them, they only carry the Falicon at 299.00. A complete Honda crank can be had for $347.00. Wiseco uses the Carillo in their kits. Hot Rods doesn't list one.. Where is everyone getting their rod and pressed for less than 200.00 like I've read?

  • Jon-D

Posted April 05, 2007 - 05:17 PM

#9

Travis_D37 has done quite a bit of crank work on KTMs but I am sure he can do the XRs as well. Now that I think about it, I saw an XR 600 motor torn apart on his bench that he was going through last weekend. His shop is located in Pasadena and he usually gives a good deal to the TT crowd. His number is 661-713-4295. If you talk to him, let us know what he says, I am kind of curious myself if the Honda crank would be easier or more difficult to put together then the KTM cranks.

  • xrdad

Posted May 01, 2007 - 11:20 AM

#10

So what did you end up doing? Where did you find the Carrillo rod for $209?

Ted K.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Denn10

Posted May 01, 2007 - 01:04 PM

#11

carillo makes top quality parts if there cheaper i would use them have had been referenced to use them for my chevy truck also there awesome

  • zipper600

Posted December 13, 2008 - 04:44 PM

#12

Hey..
I know this is a old thread but even so, after a lot of search i think its the indicated thread.
Im gonna rebuild my 600R gearbox this winter and i was thinking it would be a good idea and investment to at least leave the lower end /transmission fully repaired.
I have been collecting parts for it (already have a set of fiber plates for clutch, a used crankshaft without rod and a complete kit of gaskets.
The engine already has some mods and i would like to keep engine really reliable.I like the extra punch i have on it, but reliablity is really important to me. A kick and ride bike is the main goal.More time on the bike and less on maintenance.

I have a Prox piston and a Prox rod installed at this time.I think the rod is ok and the piston is also great as the oil consumption is low.But the crankshaft assembly is bent ( flywheel is touching coils in one spot and while turning engine by hand, with clutch cover removed you can see the tip of the crankshaft going up and down.Also has lots of vibrations).

So main goal is to repair gear box (2nd gear, gear dogs ),Countersprocket shaft, assemble a new rod on the used crankshaft i already have, replace crank bearings and all other bearings on both cases to prevent another rebuild on the next years.
also wanna get another piston (JE or Wiseco) +1mm than standard ( no high comp or big bore) as i want to keep cheap too. A Prox cam chain might also be a good idea.
Already have a TM40 pumper (was a really good investment on throttle response) and was aiming to a Hotcam to get some extra punch on mid/high range.The mainly road use (SM) asks for it.
An home made oil cooler is already being prepared to keep temperature on a good level.With the mods i have i already notice some extra temperature.Its difficult to keep engine below 90Celsius.
The mods i have are Prox piston with cutted skirt, the cylinder and valve head surface were shaved to increase compression ( no matter piston i install always gonna be a high comp engine), bigger stainless headers and high flow pipe, TM40 pumper, CRD air filter, Iridium plug, rewinded ignition coils.
My questions are:
1-Wich rod ?Fallicon?Hot Rod? or Creuso Competition?A guy on ebay sells those Creuso Competition rods for about 50 bucks.Are they good??He says they are Made in USA, no china stuff, but are they good??Hmmm...
2-Wich piston?JE or Wiseco?Wiseco is known for cheating on those high comp pistons for the 650L, but on the other hand they have a good reputation on pistons....
3-Any more suggestions??I want the extra punch that i already have but wanna keep reliability at a high level.

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

  • zipper600

Posted December 13, 2008 - 04:46 PM

#13

BTW:shit....i just become on of those guys who write too much :thumbsup:

  • HeadTrauma

Posted December 13, 2008 - 05:09 PM

#14

My questions are:
1-Wich rod ?Fallicon?Hot Rod? or Creuso Competition?A guy on ebay sells those Creuso Competition rods for about 50 bucks.Are they good??He says they are Made in USA, no china stuff, but are they good??Hmmm...
2-Wich piston?JE or Wiseco?Wiseco is known for cheating on those high comp pistons for the 650L, but on the other hand they have a good reputation on pistons....
3-Any more suggestions??I want the extra punch that i already have but wanna keep reliability at a high level.


1.) If your choice is between Falicon, Hot Rods, or the no-name Creuso, get the Falicon. I wouldn't even use the namebrand Hot Rods or Pro-X in a built engine. There were pictures floating around here a year ago of a 650R engine blown to pieces by a failed Pro-X. Carrillo is another high-end option up there with Falicon. If you want to see how nice the Carrillos are, look for posts made my stepho.

2.) It depends on what kind of gas you want to run. The Wiseco is 11:1 and that can be touchy with the 91 (RON+MON/2 method) pump gas we have here. The JE is 10.5:1 and happier without a spike of 100. Well, unless you want the 9:1 Wiseco.....

3.) Depending on how seriously the engine will be built, you might also consider having the crank pin welded.

  • zipper600

Posted December 13, 2008 - 05:17 PM

#15

1.) If your choice is between Falicon, Hot Rods, or the no-name Creuso, get the Falicon. I wouldn't even use the namebrand Hot Rods or Pro-X in a built engine. There were pictures floating around here a year ago of a 650R engine blown to pieces by a failed Pro-X. Carrillo is another high-end option up there with Falicon. If you want to see how nice the Carrillos are, look for posts made my stepho.

2.) It depends on what kind of gas you want to run. The Wiseco is 11:1 and that can be touchy with the 91 (RON+MON/2 method) pump gas we have here. The JE is 10.5:1 and happier without a spike of 100. Well, unless you want the 9:1 Wiseco.....

3.) Depending on how seriously the engine will be built, you might also consider having the crank pin welded.



The rod i have installed is a Prox i cant complain.But even so they are too expensive.Those Carrillo look GOOD but TOO expensive.I already saw some posts of guys giving good advice on hot Rod.Maybe i will get a Fallicon.
Gas avaiable here is 95 RON minimum. I usually run 98RON but 100RON is also avaiable, but too expensive.i think a 10.5:1 Wiseco or JE is more than enough.
About the crank pin welded, i already had that idea but never thought would be really needed.Thanks:thumbsup:

  • HeadTrauma

Posted December 13, 2008 - 05:22 PM

#16

Welding the crank may not even be necessary. I don't know at what power/torque/RPM level the stock crank starts twisting. Stepho and gang managed to twisted some 650L cranks, but there again, I don't know how much power it took. I do know some of their engines will put a built 650R to shame. :thumbsup:

I see the conrod as an insurance item. It's cheaper to get a good $300 one than it is to blow up a $1500 engine with a cheap one.

  • asf

Posted December 13, 2008 - 05:29 PM

#17

Carlos I am running the falicon with a wiseco 10.5:1. I also have cut valves, a stage 1 cam, and hardened rockers. I'm somewhere at 45HP (44 and change) and I have run 89 without hearing or feeling any detonation or seeing any temperature increase, but I do typically run 92.

When I was doing the rebuild I figured that setup was the perfect middle ground for a reliable build, and so far there have been zero issues. I know all these parts add up but for me I was commuting to work on the XR for a while and the extra $1-200 would have been spent if I had to call a tow truck on one day to rescue me then the cab to work.

When I asked about the 680, one builder told me "it's like fake breasts, they are wonderful to look at, but do you really NEED them to go fast?" :thumbsup:

  • zipper600

Posted December 14, 2008 - 03:13 AM

#18

Carlos I am running the falicon with a wiseco 10.5:1. I also have cut valves, a stage 1 cam, and hardened rockers. I'm somewhere at 45HP (44 and change) and I have run 89 without hearing or feeling any detonation or seeing any temperature increase, but I do typically run 92.

When I was doing the rebuild I figured that setup was the perfect middle ground for a reliable build, and so far there have been zero issues. I know all these parts add up but for me I was commuting to work on the XR for a while and the extra $1-200 would have been spent if I had to call a tow truck on one day to rescue me then the cab to work.

When I asked about the 680, one builder told me "it's like fake breasts, they are wonderful to look at, but do you really NEED them to go fast?" :thumbsup:


Thanks mate.Guess the wiseco 10.5 and the fallicon is the way to go.Where did you got those hardened rockers?

About those "fake breasts" im not really in the mood.I would need a big bore sleeve and probably a Carrillo rod..I dont really need the extra power, as i think i already get spooked sometimes :smirk: but you got to admit those "fake breasts" can give you some extra fun :smirk:

  • asf

Posted December 14, 2008 - 03:44 AM

#19

I got mine through Rob Barnum at barnumspro. The important thing is to match them to the cam, as two dissimilar metals will cause one to wear faster. Rob raced the XRs in the baja for a while and offers good, sound advice.

  • zipper600

Posted December 14, 2008 - 03:46 AM

#20

I got mine through Rob Barnum at barnumspro. The important thing is to match them to the cam, as two dissimilar metals will cause one to wear faster. Rob raced the baja for a while and offers good, sound advice.

And the falicon rod?I was checking XRsonly.com and its 300 bucks plus shipping...





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