First Harescramble on 06 450

8 replies to this topic
  • TIGER44

Posted April 02, 2007 - 04:51 PM


Had a blast but do have a couple concerns. Flywheel weight will be order next week because of stalling that was my fault. Really hurt my rythm though. This bike only has about 4 hours on it and for some reason during shifting it seemed to go in to neutral alot. Didn't seem normal at all. Was happening on downshifting and upshifting. I changed the oil the day before with Mobil 15-30 full synthethic. Maybe its just me getting used to the bike but I had some scary situations when I thought I had "grapped" a gear only to wind up with a loud rev.
O.K. stupid question about a fuel screw. Does have aftermarket screw but I am not sure how to adjust. The bike was doing a lot of popping. Do I screw in or out. What the heck do the numbers on the screw mean? Which side of the bike do you read them from? Please help!!!

  • twenty34

Posted April 02, 2007 - 06:19 PM


This bike only has about 4 hours on it and for some reason during shifting it seemed to go in to neutral alot.

My bike has a lot more hrs on it, and it to, goes into neutral far too often. Key is staying out of 1st, but that's not always practical. I'm not sure why it does this to be honest.

  • steve_97060

Posted April 02, 2007 - 06:26 PM


Yeah, after a real close call on double jump after a tight downhill corner (I'm glad I wear a neck roll), I now make double sure it is in a gear before I hit any jump....

  • grayracer513

Posted April 02, 2007 - 07:42 PM


The numbers on the screw are to help you keep track of how far you turn it from fully seated. It doesn't matter where you read it from, as long as you read from the same position all the time.

Here's the procedure:


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  • tnl

Posted April 02, 2007 - 08:54 PM


I'm new to this adjustment too. In the above link, is # 1 (the idle knob, black knob) and # 2 the fuel screw? That's the way I understand it?

  • grayracer513

Posted April 02, 2007 - 09:31 PM


Yes, that's correct. The procedure is also outlined on 3-17 in the manual.

  • TIGER44

Posted April 03, 2007 - 10:41 AM


So the oil is not the problem then. I guess this is just something I am going to have to get used to.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 03, 2007 - 11:33 AM


YZF's have been known for years to be "notchy" shifting in general, and in particular when crossing the index for neutral between second and first (going either way). I must say, however, that my '06 is much lighter shifting than any of the earlier ones I've ridden, and I often found myself shifting before I meant to at first. Almost never hangs in neutral. There seems to be some variance between '06's in this regard from what I've heard, though.

The shift cam is indexed by a spring loaded roller that runs over a star shaped wheel on the end of the cam (behind the clutch). Be certain that whole assembly works smoothly. Some people round over the shoulders of the small notch used to index neutral. This will make it both easier to avoid hitting neutral, and harder to find it when you want it, to.

Other solutions that have been tried are relocating the shifter up or down to help you make more positive shifts.

To some extent, as long as yours is no worse than others, it's something you just have to adapt to.

  • 00YZ426FMRCD

Posted April 03, 2007 - 06:49 PM


Can't help but wonder why neutral isn't at the bottom of the shift pattern versus between 1st & 2nd. Back when I was doing a lot of woods riding/racing, I used to gear my bikes down where I didn't even need 1st. This has been a problem with about every bike I have owned. I have chalked most of the problem up to shift error on my part and vibration. Sometimes repositioning the shifter helps as well.

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