KLX110 exhaust update
Posted March 31, 2007 - 09:03 AM
Performance wise, low end is good, although a tad less than the stock set up with the 5/8" mod. Mid range is comparable or may be a bit better than stock. The high end is better than I expected, with quicker acceleration at WOT. The only real down side is the noise level, at or near full throttle. As expected, the Dr D is louder that the stock pipe with the header mod.
But so far we only did a brief test in front of our house, we won't be able to ride until next weekend. I don't know if they make a quite core for the play bikes, but if they do that may be an option. The bike may also sound different at Gorman, at higher altitude and more open spaces. Temp wise it was warm out and that may have had an effect on noise as well.
The only change required was to open the air mix screw a .25 turns out. So it's easy to change out the pipe. Cost wise it's not the first mod I would do, but may be something after you have completed other suspension and performance tweaks. My son doesn't race, so more top end isn't the most important thing, but it's a nice to have.
Posted April 01, 2007 - 06:23 PM
Posted April 01, 2007 - 06:43 PM
Posted April 02, 2007 - 06:49 AM
In another year, my son should be big enough to ride our TTR125LE, so I really don't want to put any more money into the KLX110.
LOL. I was thinking that as soon as my kids move out of their bikes (CRF50 and KLX110) I'll steal them and convert to pitbikes. They're just too much fun to hop on and ride. My daughter keeps eyeing her mom's TTR125LE, and I'm not sure how long it'll be before she takes it over. We may end up buying another TTR sometime. Great bike for smaller riders.
Posted April 02, 2007 - 07:42 PM
I choose the Dr D because I wasn't planning on a big bore kit, just agreeing that if you did more mods, an after market pipe would work better than stock. Even though the header has the same OD as the stock pipe, the ID is much larger. Most exhaust that work well, include a step header pipe to save the low end, a bigger pipe would just hurt performance on a stock motor. The comment on the air mix screw was in addition to the 2 turns out I already had, so the air mix screw is now at 2.25 turns out.
Posted April 02, 2007 - 11:40 PM
Posted April 03, 2007 - 07:27 PM
Posted April 03, 2007 - 07:48 PM
Posted April 03, 2007 - 08:16 PM
Regarding the airmix screw, on a KLX110 it's actually more of a fuel mixture screw. Turning the screw out actually allows more fuel to go to the carb, not less because it is downstream of the throttle valve. Dr D under technical for the KLX110 actually recommends setting the screw to 3 turns out on a stock bike. I had already re-jetted due to my prior airbox and header mods, so the max idle speed was found at 2.25 turns out on our 110.
Posted April 04, 2007 - 01:19 AM
Kawasaki has been known to miss-label stuff. I'd be surprised if it was an air screw. As mentioned above, it's downstream of the throttle slide, which most of the time means it's a fuel mixture screw. Easiest way to tell without removing the carb is to phone a knowledgeable mechanic (ie TT Jetting expert) or just adjust it out and see if you get black smoke or a fouled carb. I had to adjust mine out after leaning it out with all the free mods, so my money is on the "out is richer" concept.
Posted April 04, 2007 - 04:53 AM
Every mod that I have done on our KLX110 has resulted in obtaining the best performance and idle by opening up the fuel mixture screw. The stock setting is at 1.25 turns out with no mods, after minor mods most people have it set to about 2 turns out. If the mods make the bike leaner, and turning the screw out helps, may be it is a fuel screw.