Almost Completed The Perfect Xr650l


52 replies to this topic
  • glenn6109

Posted March 29, 2007 - 04:23 PM

#1

no more info!!!

  • elrontx

Posted March 29, 2007 - 09:19 PM

#2

how much money/time did it cost you?

  • Nummie

Posted March 29, 2007 - 11:50 PM

#3

Yes please, lets have pictures:applause:

  • glenn6109

Posted March 30, 2007 - 05:45 AM

#4

well that was kind of expensive and i got all my parts at cost from my dealership. my 650l is an 07 and i wanted to keep it all 07 but if i do it again i will buy my parts used on e-bay. I would say that i spent around 400.00 on all the kick parts and covers and i did use a used flywheel from a xr600 that i paid 35.00 on e-bay. I ordered all my parts for a 2000 model xr600r which included ignition cover, clutch cover,idler gear,kick start stop bracket,kick start parts,kick lever. I will tell you that if you do these mods to your 650l you will have a totaly new beast,I will post some close up pics of my bike very soon. glenn p.s if any of you guys need help let me know .

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted March 30, 2007 - 09:19 AM

#5

With all the machine-work, I'm surprised you didn't machine the kick-shaft hole in the L clutch cover.

Dave

  • glenn6109

Posted March 30, 2007 - 12:43 PM

#6

I Almost Machined Out The Cover But With All The Other Work I Was Having To Do I Figued I Needed To Save As Much Time As Possible And Just Buy A New Cover Ready To Go. When I Started This Works Project I Was Very Nervous About Moding A Brand New 07 650l But Now I Am Very Happy And I Have A 650l That Is 35lbs Lighter And 10 More Hp And This Thing Hauls Ass And Handles Even Better. I Will Be Finished When I Install An Old Style Dual Runner Head And Install An Old Style Xr Shock So I Can Bolt My Dual Carbs Up And Then I Should Be Getting Around 50+ Hp. Glenn

  • mgs781

Posted March 30, 2007 - 01:27 PM

#7

This is the perfect XRL, period.:bonk:

http://www.thumperta...achmentid=13913

I don't know why anyone would choose to kick a bike, but what ever floats your boat.

I am also going to run a 83 XL600R head with dual 83 30mm carbs (83 had the biggest carbs). This is far from bolt on. It will require non-piggyback shock, XL shock linkage, XL airbox modified to fit the L box. With any luck, I should have everything together in a few months. Perhaps we can exchange jetting info, as we will have nearly the same motors.

Good luck,

  • jetfuel

Posted March 30, 2007 - 01:51 PM

#8

I Almost Machined Out The Cover But With All The Other Work I Was Having To Do I Figued I Needed To Save As Much Time As Possible And Just Buy A New Cover Ready To Go. When I Started This Works Project I Was Very Nervous About Moding A Brand New 07 650l But Now I Am Very Happy And I Have A 650l That Is 35lbs Lighter And 10 More Hp And This Thing Hauls Ass And Handles Even Better. I Will Be Finished When I Install An Old Style Dual Runner Head And Install An Old Style Xr Shock So I Can Bolt My Dual Carbs Up And Then I Should Be Getting Around 50+ Hp. Glenn


It sounds like you did alot of work to make your bike into a kicker , thanks for the info.... and I understand you lightened it a bit ...but, how did you get a 10HP gain??? what engine mods did you do you??...was it in another post? ...and what will you gain with the dual carb setup other than increased flow that a larger single flat slide carb with a accelerator pump can't do?? Thanks...

  • glenn6109

Posted March 30, 2007 - 05:57 PM

#9

dual carbs are 30mm each and that totals 60mm, the largest single i have found is 42 and 18 more mm is big time hp increase thru out the entire power range.

  • Nummie

Posted March 30, 2007 - 07:18 PM

#10

dual carbs are 30mm each and that totals 60mm, the largest single i have found is 42 and 18 more mm is big time hp increase thru out the entire power range.



Now that's some terrible math.
It's the area that matters.

A 30 mm carb has an area of (Pi * 15 mm^2) = 706.9 mm^2
Two 30 mm carbs have an area of (2 * 706.9 mm^2) = 1413.8 mm^2

A 42 mm carb has an area of (Pi * 21 mm^2) = 1385.4 mm^2
So you can see that the dual carbs do have a larger area, but more importantly, they have different flow characteristics (smoother).

You can't just add two diameters from two smaller carbs and compare with a larger diameter carb.
What's that all about ?!:bonk:

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  • cleonard

Posted March 30, 2007 - 08:28 PM

#11

So you can see that the dual carbs do have a larger area, but more importantly, they have different flow characteristics (smoother).


The smoother flow is really the main benefit of the dual carb setup. With the single carb you have to split the flow from the single to the two valves. The dual carbs give a nice straight shot. A big single carb also suffers from poorer low end performance. All you have to do is get it set up right.

When Honda went to the single carb on the XR600, the horsepower dropped about 10%. They did it for two reasons. I would bet that first is cost. A single is just cheaper. The second was tuning. The duals are difficult to get right. There are more variables than a single. The rumor is that Honda shops had a hard time getting the bikes to work right. That caused pissed off customers.

I don't think that there will be an issue with this project. Anyone who can do all this engine work should have no problems with jetting.

  • glenn6109

Posted March 31, 2007 - 10:42 AM

#12

Thanks Man For The Reply Cause Its Been Real Lonely On This Board With All These Idiots That Talk Out Of Their Ass And Know Nothing. I Can Tell When Someone Thinks Before They Talk And You Are Right On The Money And Im Sure Glad Your Out There Cause Theres Not Many Of Us Still Around. Glenn

  • rmhrc630

Posted March 31, 2007 - 05:27 PM

#13

Glenn 6109 as a guy who estarted his 628 I came from the other direction to get near an ideal 600/650L hybrid.

Now when I was near the end of the estart project late last year, we couldnt get the bike to fire on the button. Kikcing was fine - big blue spark.

On analysis the electrical system on the 650L and 600R are compeltely different. I ended up getting a 650L CDI wired into my 628. Then I had the first estart 600.

But the result of the 650L CDI was a perceived power drop.

So just last night I was able to require the 600R CDI into the estart wiring loom and guess what? Power is back and the revs just build and build!!! The bike just flat out hammers.

So for you 650L riders out there know this:

I run a estart converted 600R. I have just swapped back and forwards with the 650L and 600R CDIs. The 650L CDI is a major constraint on power. IN describing I would say it cuts about 15-20% of the power and really cuts the ability to rev.

As I said I am perhaps the first person to be able to swap CDIs and the 600R CDI is a major difference from the 650L CDI.

  • xr650l bum

Posted March 31, 2007 - 06:12 PM

#14

So is it a direct swap? Why is it working now and not then? How about using the Hirev cdi for the 600r? There has to be some reason why they did not use the same for both. Maybe smog?

  • rmhrc630

Posted March 31, 2007 - 06:21 PM

#15

So is it a direct swap? Why is it working now and not then? How about using the Hirev cdi for the 600r? There has to be some reason why they did not use the same for both. Maybe smog?


Unfort I dont think it is. The plugs are identical though. However the 600R with 600R CDI fires on 110v AC power off the ignition. The 650L fires up on 12 volt (from battery).Posted Image

Posted Image

So last night was to experiement with the CDIs and see if my seat of the pants obs were correct.

It's great to have the power back!!!

Swapping back to the 600R CDI (as much trouble as it is) removed the ability to button start.

So next week my electrical guru will work out how much exciter voltage is needed to trigger the 600R CDI when the button is being pushed.

The difference here we are talking about is the engine turnover speed of kick v button. Clearly buton only 650Ls cant start on kick.

I will find a solution soon and report back - could be the single biggest power mod for the 650L.

To the estart remover fellow (Glenn)- your 650L CDI is really constraining your power. I know this becuase I am the only one to be able to swap CDIs

  • cleonard

Posted April 01, 2007 - 09:16 AM

#16

To do the CDI swap you will also need to swap to a 600R stator. The 600R stator has a high voltage ingnition coil and the 650L stator does not. The 650L CDI uses 12 volts to make the high voltage, not a stator winding.

I think that the 650L CDI cuts the RPM's of at a lower number than the 600R CDI. It can be dangerous, but a XR400 CDI has a even higher RPM cutoff. The 250R is higher still. There is a guy selling CDI's on ebay and I don't think they even have a cutoff.

  • rmhrc630

Posted April 01, 2007 - 01:58 PM

#17

To do the CDI swap you will also need to swap to a 600R stator. The 600R stator has a high voltage ingnition coil and the 650L stator does not. The 650L CDI uses 12 volts to make the high voltage, not a stator winding.

I think that the 650L CDI cuts the RPM's of at a lower number than the 600R CDI. It can be dangerous, but a XR400 CDI has a even higher RPM cutoff. The 250R is higher still. There is a guy selling CDI's on ebay and I don't think they even have a cutoff.


CL - you are correct - I retain my 600R electrics which as you know are vastly different to the 650L.

BTW you simply cant just shove the 600R stator into the 650L motor - wont work as the systems are night and day. (be great if it did cos the 650L flwyheel is enormous!!)

Now swapping 650L electrics to run the 600R flywheel/CDI combo would possibly involce the following:

1. Removing the starter gear from the 650L and bolting on the 600R flwyheel.
2. Using a 600R stator (probbaly rewound)
3. Playing with the exciter and pulsar coils to make sure they still fire.

So there is a lot of work but it is worth it!!!

So right now I have disaconnected my estart - no big deal as it's still warm here and I have kick as well!!!

This week will be working on a solution to let my estart work off the 600R CDI.

All i can say is seat of the poants the bikes abolsutely rips with the 600R CDI.

From day one of my 600R estart project I had never ridden my 600 with the 600R CDI - it had been the 650L CDI was all I rode - boy does it restrict power.

IN 2 places I reckon the 600R CDI kills the 650L:

1. Ability to let rev - my 628 will now rev much better (which it should!!) and make power from zero to max revs!!
2. The hit in the midrange - much much better!!!

  • jaredc28

Posted April 03, 2007 - 07:04 AM

#18

[quote name='mgs781']This is the perfect XRL, period.:bonk:

http://www.thumperta...achmentid=13913

I don't know why anyone would choose to kick a bike, but what ever floats your boat.

DITO, DITO, DITO

  • XRJunkie

Posted April 03, 2007 - 08:17 PM

#19

Ok, I'm lost. I just sold my '02 "L" and replaced it with an '07 "R". What's the thought behind buying an "L" and coverting to kick instead of buying an "R", throwing a Baja kit on it?

Just curious...

  • philipstjohn

Posted April 04, 2007 - 04:25 AM

#20

I agree- lots of work, time and money, unless you do not like water cooled bikes, with better suspension, etc., etc. :bonk: :naughty:





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