What mods will I need for my new 450F?


25 replies to this topic
  • rawwdog

Posted March 29, 2007 - 06:10 AM

#1

Just getting back into riding/racing. I'm about to buy a new '07 450F (4 strokes will be new for me to work on) but I know I'll be spending some more money on mods. I don't need to go all out yet, but I'll throw around another $800 or so.

Thoughts?

  • mxracer535

Posted March 29, 2007 - 06:17 AM

#2

Firts off, get your suspension revalved, best mod you can do to your bike. Sence you are just starting back up, I wouldn't put to much into the motor quiet yet, I would just go stock up on oil, oil filters and air filters, and get rid of the stock tires. Then get as much seat time as possible, and if you feel that you need some extra power go for hot cams then exhaust. This is just my opinion, as I don't know how long you have been off, skill level, etc also I ride a 06 kx250f, so there maybe something that the yz450f needs that I am not aware of

  • rawwdog

Posted March 29, 2007 - 06:26 AM

#3

I haven't been on a track since 2001 (had a new YZ125, just got FMF pipe and silencer, new bars, levers,ect), and even then I was still new at racing. I've just messed around on trails and jumping. I have a lot to learn in the racing world still.

Since then I've ridden my uncles WR250F off and on in the summer. Nothing major though. I just got rid of my R6 street bike. That was a boring mistake. Speed doesn't do it for me, air does. I still haven't picked up the bike but have pretty much made up my mind. It's either that or a new 250 smoker, and from what I read the 450F's power is easier to get used to.

I always hear of the stock tires being replaced. Are they that bad? What do ya recommend?

  • motox100

Posted March 29, 2007 - 07:16 AM

#4

If it was me I'd just get out there and ride it. The bikes are so good nowadays, especially if you haven't rode a track since 01' you're new YZ will feel like a factory bike. One thing you might want is a hand adjustable fuel screw, they are nice and easy for fine tuning.

  • KJ790

Posted March 29, 2007 - 07:16 AM

#5

Buy an o-ring chain and put it on before you even ride the bike. The only downfall to the yamahas are the crap chains they come with stretch and wreck the sprockets in two rides. Buy an aftermarket fuel screw, they help a lot. Other than that I'd say put michelin MH3's on the front and back and have fun. Since you haven't ridden in a few years and you used to ride a 125, I'm sure the 450 will have more than enough power stock. These bikes really don't need a whole lot of mods. Have fun :bonk:

  • grayracer513

Posted March 29, 2007 - 07:39 AM

#6

Buy an o-ring chain and put it on before you even ride the bike. The only downfall to the yamahas are the crap chains they come with stretch and wreck the sprockets in two rides. Buy an aftermarket fuel screw, they help a lot. Other than that I'd say put michelin MH3's on the front and back and have fun. Since you haven't ridden in a few years and you used to ride a 125, I'm sure the 450 will have more than enough power stock. These bikes really don't need a whole lot of mods. Have fun :bonk:


If it was me I'd just get out there and ride it. The bikes are so good nowadays, especially if you haven't rode a track since 01' you're new YZ will feel like a factory bike. One thing you might want is a hand adjustable fuel screw, they are nice and easy for fine tuning.

I have to agree with these guys. Ditch the stock chain immediately and replace it with something high quality (my favorite is the Regina ORN-6) The stock sprockets are fine unless you let the OEM chain eat them.

Unless you're running on mostly very hard dirt, toss the front tire before it tosses you and get something more suitable for the soil in your area. You can run the rubber off the rear one (it won't take long) and then replace it, too.

Otherwise, just go ride it. It can be improved on, like anything else, but it's really good enough to be ridden in the pro class stone stock. For someone just starting out, there's no reason to spend a lot on it at this point.

  • rawwdog

Posted March 29, 2007 - 07:40 AM

#7

sounds good. I hope this 450 won't be too much for me. I honestly think a 250f would be my best fit atm, but when it comes to racing... the 250/450F © will be a much easier class to race for my beginner ass.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 29, 2007 - 07:45 AM

#8

The power delivery is so smooth on the new YZF's that they're actually easier to ride than some smaller bikes. You'll love it.

  • Ga450owner

Posted March 29, 2007 - 09:22 AM

#9

Before even riding it, buy a new chain non Oring or oring. My preference is non oring. Or new chain and new sprocket kits. Install a quality chain at least.
And a Zipty fuel screw
Then disassemble the steeringhead and repack/ regrease top and bottom bearings
Then disassemble the swingarm linkage/shock linkage and regrease all of these bearings
Add more grease to front and rear wheel bearings
These are all semi dry from factory and do not have enough grease on any of them - do this before riding
Re-oil the air filter
I would also buy a Works Connection skid plate

Change oil after first ride - 1-2 hrs of riding time

then access the suspension after 5-10hrs for a revalve/service

  • Ranger18

Posted March 29, 2007 - 10:00 AM

#10

Stuff to spend money on...
New Chain
Oil filters for break in, then maybe a scotts stainless filter
New front tire if your on anything other than hard pack. I like dunlop 756
Fuel screw
or take your carb off and send it to zip-ty for their carb mod. I don't have this upgrade, but the people who have it, love it, and it will eliminate any bogging.
ASV levers are nice, especially since you will proabably drop the bike a few times.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • rawwdog

Posted March 30, 2007 - 05:37 AM

#11

Before even riding it, buy a new chain non Oring or oring. My preference is non oring. Or new chain and new sprocket kits. Install a quality chain at least.
And a Zipty fuel screw
Then disassemble the steeringhead and repack/ regrease top and bottom bearings
Then disassemble the swingarm linkage/shock linkage and regrease all of these bearings
Add more grease to front and rear wheel bearings
These are all semi dry from factory and do not have enough grease on any of them - do this before riding

Re-oil the air filter
I would also buy a Works Connection skid plate

Change oil after first ride - 1-2 hrs of riding time

then access the suspension after 5-10hrs for a revalve/service


I've never done that before nor do I know how. I know eventually I'll have to learn, but is it something that can hold off for now? How crucial is this?

Also do most of you think I should get my suspension revalved and send my carb in right away? How much we talkin here?

  • KJ790

Posted March 30, 2007 - 06:22 AM

#12

Don't hold off on greasing all the bearings, especially the steering head. If you don't the steering head will probably freeze up in about 2-3 weeks. A friend of mine bought a new bike in the fall and decided to hold off on greasing it for a month until winter started. Long story short, after only a month of riding he had to replace all the bearings in the suspension because they froze up. The grease acts as a water sealer on the seals preventing water from getting in the bearings. If water gets in the bearings one time, they will freeze up in a matter of days.

  • rawwdog

Posted March 30, 2007 - 06:31 AM

#13

Don't hold off on greasing all the bearings, especially the steering head. If you don't the steering head will probably freeze up in about 2-3 weeks. A friend of mine bought a new bike in the fall and decided to hold off on greasing it for a month until winter started. Long story short, after only a month of riding he had to replace all the bearings in the suspension because they froze up. The grease acts as a water sealer on the seals preventing water from getting in the bearings. If water gets in the bearings one time, they will freeze up in a matter of days.


well son of a b....how hard is this? I'll do my research and read up on it, but I'm curious if I can do it.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 30, 2007 - 09:10 AM

#14

I've never done that before nor do I know how. I know eventually I'll have to learn, but is it something that can hold off for now? How crucial is this?

Also do most of you think I should get my suspension revalved and send my carb in right away? How much we talkin here?

I gave you the entire list of stuff you actually NEED. A suspension revavle and the carb mod are nice, and they are, dollar for dollar, the two best ways to spend your money on the YZF, but neither is really necessary.

The '06 YZF had a weak upper head bearing seal, or at least, it didn't seal as well on the aluminum frame as on the steel one. The '07 has an upgrade seal, and should not need to be serviced so often. Keep high pressure water off of the steering head, an away from the rear suspension linkage, and any other seals for that matter, and they shouldn't give you too much trouble.

The grease used at the factory is colorless and transparent, and gives the impression that there isn't any there. In truth, at least on my own '06 all these points were adequately, even if not generously, lubed from the factory.

You can probably ride the bike a few times without doing any of this, but the sooner you service the head and linkage with a good, waterproof, moly-bearing EP grease, the better off you'll be. The steering head should be done first. Here is a generic how-to for that:

http://www.transworl...1206466,00.html

For the rear linkage, it isn't really to much more difficult than removing the rear wheel and a handful of bolts. Have your manual handy, and look this link over:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

Ignore all references to "Polylube". Your bike does not have any. However, several of the bearings in the rear linkage from '05 onward do have loose rollers, so have the parts laid out on a clean bench with a shop towel under them when removing the inner sleeves from the bearings. It looks daunting; it's not hard. It looks tedious; it is, a little, but not that bad once you get it figured out. Give your self 2.5-3 hours for the first time through. :bonk:

  • twenty34

Posted March 30, 2007 - 07:00 PM

#15

but it's really good enough to be ridden in the pro class stone stock.


I think this may be a pipe dream. Suspension would be a bare minimum, but certainly not stock. Talk to any pro, suspension is the first work done on the bike before they throw a leg over it. It's by far the single best mod you can do to your bike, period.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 30, 2007 - 08:04 PM

#16

I think this may be a pipe dream. Suspension would be a bare minimum, but certainly not stock. Talk to any pro, suspension is the first work done on the bike before they throw a leg over it. It's by far the single best mod you can do to your bike, period.

Suspension is indeed the best use of your money on any dirt bike. No argument there ( I said that already, BTW). But it's also true that the '06-7 YZ450 has the best suspension out of the box that any MX bike in my memory has ever come with by far. We haven't done anything at all with ours (other than seals and an oil change), and so far, I don't think I'm going to anytime soon. As far as the comment about being ridable in the pro class, the last time I heard that was from a pro at TWMX, and it isn't the first time, or the only place I've heard it. And bear in mind, the OP is not a pro, but someone starting back in racing after a few years away. To say that this bike can't be ridden in that class with stock suspension by anyone weighing between 165-185 is pretty silly.

  • TMAC25

Posted March 30, 2007 - 08:33 PM

#17

Firts off, get your suspension revalved, best mod you can do to your bike. Sence you are just starting back up, I wouldn't put to much into the motor quiet yet, I would just go stock up on oil, oil filters and air filters, and get rid of the stock tires. Then get as much seat time as possible, and if you feel that you need some extra power go for hot cams then exhaust. This is just my opinion, as I don't know how long you have been off, skill level, etc also I ride a 06 kx250f, so there maybe something that the yz450f needs that I am not aware of


First off you ride a KX250f so your opinion on what a 07 yz450f needs really does not matter and second off your opinion is crazy. I know you ride a KX and the suspension sucks and it rides like a tank, but that simply is not the case with a yz. "Firts off, get your suspension re valved, best mod you can do to your bike." The yz450f has the best and I quote that. "The best not opinion, but fact suspension of any of the bike made", straight out of the box there is absolutely no need to re valve this bike until you are ridding at a far superior level then a guy just getting back into it will probably ever be at. And hot cams, why would you ever start messing with the internals of the bike before at least putting exhaust on. Wow I don't want to sound like an ass, but I just read this and don't want this guy to go throwing money at the wind on some Shiiiii that he does not need in any way, shape or form. I have put about 5K into my 06 yz450f and a lot of money into other bikes and what I have learned is that "a brand new stock bike is a weapon, spend your money on maintenance and good tires and it will serve you well." My next bike will get exhaust and that is it period.

  • twenty34

Posted March 30, 2007 - 08:49 PM

#18

To say that this bike can't be ridden in that class with stock suspension by anyone weighing between 165-185 is pretty silly.


I suppose if you spoke from actual experience on this topic, I could understand, but since you have not ridden a 06 YZ stock vs a revalve, I'm still perplexed at how you can claim to be the expert here. You do have a wealth of information at your disposal, this I'll give you, however, unless you have something more concrete to base your theory, I think your comment is adolescent. Sure, you can ride with stock anything, but yoou are the first to point our that the D739 sucks. Quite frankly, I've had good success with this tire. Yes, off topic, but you get the idea. Everyone has an opinion. I can assure you that anyone that has done a revalve will cite a night and day difference, as hard as this may be for you to comprehend. And for a pro or semi pro, this is a prerequisite.

On a side note, funny, I was on the phone with Dubach the other day and they recommend a NFLR Jet Needle on for higher elevations, but you blamed the website for poor information. I hadn't even paid attention to the site.

In the same conversation that I had with them, they commented at how poor the stock suspension is. I guess they just don't know what they are talking about.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 31, 2007 - 07:20 AM

#19

I suppose if you spoke from actual experience on this topic, I could understand, but since you have not ridden a 06 YZ stock vs a revalve, I'm still perplexed at how you can claim to be the expert here.

I, in turn, am completely perplexed at how you could possibly know what I have or have not ridden. And incidentally, you're wrong. I also did not say the stock suspension is perfect. I said it was excellent as is, and I stand by that.

What I said about the jetting info on the Dr.D web site (nice little hijack, BTW) is that there is clearly bad info there which conflicts with his previous recommendations, and calls into question the veracity of the entire entry in the database. The needle selection is hair splitting in any event, since it's the same profile a half step lower (leaner) on the needle. If it's only for high altitude, maybe you can explain why the NFLR has replaced the NFLP as the OEM needle on the '07 models.

  • Ga426owner

Posted March 31, 2007 - 07:54 AM

#20

Sounds like we went way off track here...:naughty:

You asked for mods to do before riding.....a new bike.
The greasing should be your number 1 priority - otherwise you will have excessive wear on new bearings and racces before you even can get 3 hrs on your ride......stop your yacking and get to greasing....you need to learn how to do this...period end
2nd mod - get a fuel screw from ZipTy or other - this is a 100% needed mod as temp and humidity changes will affect your bikes performance....negatively
3rd mod - new quality chain
4th - skidplate to cover up engine front - a rock can ruin your new ride

break the suspension in first then decide on why you need to revalve....to revalve before you ride/test is ridiculous and stupid

A ZipTy carb mod is cool after you know what jetting/fuel issue you are trying to fix....

my 1.25cents :bonk:





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