Dr.D Hot start question.


5 replies to this topic
  • Daz_426_02

Posted March 27, 2007 - 02:20 AM

#1

Hi guys,
I have fitted my Dr.D hotstart leaver and have since been for a ride with it.
It is a handy mod to do but i have some questions.

The cable has a metal bend right before it goes into the carb. Even when this has been tightened it still seems a bit loose.

Is it possible to suck a bit of air in there? After my ride it looked like a bit of dirt collected there on the join as if there was a bit of fuel has made it damp there.

Any one else had this experience?

Thanks

  • twenty34

Posted March 27, 2007 - 03:11 AM

#2

Hi guys,
I have fitted my Dr.D hotstart leaver and have since been for a ride with it.
It is a handy mod to do but i have some questions.

The cable has a metal bend right before it goes into the carb. Even when this has been tightened it still seems a bit loose.

Is it possible to suck a bit of air in there? After my ride it looked like a bit of dirt collected there on the join as if there was a bit of fuel has made it damp there.

Any one else had this experience?

Thanks


You need to throw out the plastic connector as the threads get messed up and get a ZipTy/ProCircuit aluminum hot start plug adapter. Fixes it right up! :bonk:

  • grayracer513

Posted March 27, 2007 - 08:30 AM

#3

There is no plastic connector nut on the Dr.D conversion kit.

The looseness you see at the joint between the steel elbow and the nut may indicate that the O-ring that seals it is mis-positioned, damaged, or missing. Check that out, and apply a little water-proof grease to the ring to help it seal.

The cable can also allow water to enter the hot start bore, and if you let it sit that way, the plunger will freeze in the carb, and you'll have a minor catastrophe on your hands. To prevent this, do either of the following:

> Any time you wash the bike, or the ride you took exposed it to a lot of water, and it will sit for some time before it's ridden again, remove the cable nut from the carb (a simple matter unless you have a desert tank), spray out the bore with an alcohol bearing carb cleaner to eliminate any water, and lube the plunger with a dab of marine grease.

OR,

> After the wash (assuming your air filter is dry) start the bike, and open the hot start while the engine is running. If the choke is off, you'll have to keep it from stalling, and it will backfire when you release the throttle, but that's normal. Do this for about 30-40 seconds. All of this will draw air through the hot start circuit, and eliminate any water that would cause it to stick.

We used the latter method on our Dr.D equipped YZ250F (and on both 450's) for 3 years without ever greasing the plunger, and had no further difficulty with th eplunger sticking.

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  • Daz_426_02

Posted March 28, 2007 - 08:20 AM

#4

Thanks Grayracer,
Yeah the O-ring has come off. Exactly where dose it fit?

There seems to be far too much play between the elbow and the nut as you mentioned, even when the nut is fully tightened.

Thanks for the tip with the starting the bike and using the hot start for a few seconds after washing. I always start the bike after a wash anyway cause of the little water drain hole by the spark plug loves to hold water there causing a bit of corrosion.


Thanks again.

Daz

  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2007 - 08:52 AM

#5

Yeah the O-ring has come off. Exactly where dose it fit?

There should be a bit of a groove on the inboard end of the elbow, as I recall. The ring rides there. Then apply a little grease and slide the nut from the elbow out onto the ring.

  • dkwok

Posted March 28, 2007 - 02:46 PM

#6

would someone pls tell me where to buy the hot start cable for a 98wr400 wif a fcr3 carb pls,
thanks alot,
:bonk:





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